drag question's

I have a new gsxr i wan't to take it to the local strip is there anything out there to hold the frount end on the ground that every body else uses. Also what gear do i need as in safty.:bonk: :bonk: :bonk:

I know some people compress the front shock real tight to eliminate the suspesion from bouncing, making the front end come up. And if you're new to dragging, I'd start in second gear.

I don't know anything about drag racing a bike, but.......:welcome: You should find everything you need to know here in these forums :dthumb:

You need to lower the rear end and strap the front! Schnitz Racing (http://www.schnitzracing.com/) should have everything you will ever need to drag race.

You need to lower the rear end and strap the front! Schnitz Racing (http://www.schnitzracing.com/) should have everything you will ever need to drag race. :iagree: and great link! :dthumb:

What size GSX-R do ya have?? refer to THIS (http://www.twowheelforum.com/showthread.php?t=10301) to get some more info on drag racing. Only use the straps on the track. NOT FOR DAILY RIDING!!! Any other questions, just ask. I've got some experience with racing at the strip. Good luck

Joe I got a question for ya. Do you take off in second? I have heard some people talk about that. Me, I use first, kinda ride the clutch a little, then let it all go. I'm only on a 600, so I'm not real worried about flipping back. I give it all she has. I don't lower mine neither, it's all stock.

Joe I got a question for ya. Do you take off in second? I have heard some people talk about that. Me, I use first, kinda ride the clutch a little, then let it all go. I'm only on a 600, so I'm not real worried about flipping back. I give it all she has. I don't lower mine neither, it's all stock. I start in first and feather out the clutch. Even before the mods, i would start out in first. I actually just picked up a slick for the drag strip (michelin pilot drag) and hopefully will be going back up soon to run again and hopefully get into the 10's. I might try to start in 2nd and see how it feels, but i still prefer 1st. You can still flip backwards on a 600 just as easily. I've almost done it a few times launching to hard and high on the RPM's. Be careful and lean on the tank. Just keep practicing. I'm nowhere near awsome at drag racing, but you will learn from your mistakes to imporve yourself. Good luck!

JD....you've got good insight for the dragging man!:dthumb:

JD....you've got good insight for the dragging man!:dthumb: Thank ya. :dthumb:

JD....you've got good insight for the dragging man!:dthumb: :withstupi

You can still flip backwards on a 600 just as easily. I've almost done it a few times launching to hard and high on the RPM's. Be careful and lean on the tank. Just keep practicing. I'm nowhere near awsome at drag racing, but you will learn from your mistakes to imporve yourself. Good luck! I'm glad you brought that up. Launching at the track is lots tougher than the street. On the street most bikes will spin. At the track, they carry the front.

All I have to say is that anyone that tells you to leave in second is an idiot, you gain nothing from it, also when it comes to drag racing leaving at peak torque, and feathering the clutch is the best possible way to launch. Just remember that with a bike the launch is the hardest part but also the most rewarding for e.t.

All I have to say is that anyone that tells you to leave in second is an idiot, you gain nothing from it, also when it comes to drag racing leaving at peak torque, and feathering the clutch is the best possible way to launch. Just remember that with a bike the launch is the hardest part but also the most rewarding for e.t. I agree, thats why Ricky Gadson is so fast, he launches @ max torque rpm. And starting in 2nd gear, NO.

leave in 1st, practice, all what was said is good stuff. since no1 mentioned safety gear, ill chime in. full leathers, over the ankle boots, leather gloves, and a snell rated helmet is ideal, but nhra tracks let you get away with jeans and a leather jacket aslong as ur goin less than 120mph, but u still need everything else. and dont roll thru the burnout box, (u dont want water on the front tire, or leave a trail of water from the front tire for the back tire to run over) drive around and roll back into the water to get the rear tire wet, (not too far, u dont want ur boots wet) then roll forward til the back tire is at the edge of the water (u dont wana start the burnout in a big puddle of water bcuz u can easily dump the bike), and then do ur burnout. assumin u got a street tire, dont hold it too long, u just want to get it hot and clean it off. too long of a burnout on a regular street tire just makes it hot and greasy, no traction. above all, have fun! :cheers:

everyone mentioned strapping down the front... and yeah lowering the bike will help alot... but the REAR SUSPENSION will need to be softened up about as much as you can as well... a stiff rear shock will help you wheelie easier....so dont do that. A good 60' is all about the clutchwork, suspension, and keeping it down while still pulling as hard as you can. SAFETY GEAR--- everything u have. You will be getting over 120MPH if not over 130 on just a 600, so should be full leathers... if you dont have htem... at least a leather jacket, high quality leather gloves, over the ankle boots, and a lid in perfect shape.... the thickest jeans you have if no leather... though they will still grind thorugh in a heart beat at over 90mph.....

On 600 and 750 bikes I dont even bother with the wet box, just drive around it and do a quick "dry hop" just bring the revs up and dump the clutch, if the rear tire breaks loose then it will be heated up enough, if it hooks, then just pull in the clutch and youll be all set to launch...... smaller bikes have to be launched at a high rpm to keep the revs in the tourqe band so traction usually isnt an issue, its trying to keep the bike from flipping over and thats where sliding the clutch comes into play....... Im old school on playing with the suspension and strapping down the front end for new drag racers...I like to be able to launch the bike hard just the way i drive it on the street before i start strapping down the front end..once you get the hang of launching a bike hard with a normal setup and start running lowering than a 1.8 sixty foot time, then you can start playing with the suspension and strapping down the front end... beleive me, if your running 1.9 or 2.0 sixty foot times then strapping down the front end isnt going to help and is not the problem........you want to be able to run at least low 1.8's and 1.7s to get the best times on the bike with the stock setup, then start tweaking for those last few tenths :dthumb: ....I have run low 1.6's without any suspension or front end mods,,,,,,

Oh this isnt about wearing womens clothes um nevermind...:leaving:

beleive me, if your running 1.9 or 2.0 sixty foot times then strapping down the front end isnt going to help and is not the problem.....,,,,,, I can attest to that, i run the same s#!tty 1.8's strapped or not.. i took the straps off cuz they did nothign for my Et's. I would still say that a soft rear set up will help a beginner at the strip. I know thats the one change that made a big difference in my times.

I can attest to that, i run the same s#!tty 1.8's strapped or not.. i took the straps off cuz they did nothign for my Et's. I would still say that a soft rear set up will help a beginner at the strip. I know thats the one change that made a big difference in my times. ya, its not that strapping the front end down or softening up the rear suspension "wont" help you launch cause it will,,,,its just that if your running 2.0 sixty foot times then your not launching correctly and using the tweaks arent going to make you automaticly run 1.6's, ....I think i said what i mean correctly..:readng: a low 1.8 or high 1.7 sixty foot time will get you real close to the magazines quarter mile times so your close to getting it right...:cheers:

i dont know obut that... my 1.826 60' netted a 11.2 at 1,000 feet elevation on a NHRA track... my Z ran a 10.85 with the sport rider maagzine guys... that puts me way off, though i weigh 205 lbs or so in leahter... they prob weight less.... But i think the biggest issues a new rider experiances is wheeling, and first gear is where all the time loss is... strapping helps from 2nd gear on more, and the rear shock being soft helps from the start. though many 600's dont have it as such a major issue as the 1000's. I need almost a 1.6 to match the magazine times....maybe a low 1.7

i think the mags factor the time to sea level, and the tester probably weighs about 170 in full gear. minus 35lbs and 1000', that should put your 11.2 down to 10.80ish maybe?

The title to this thread confused me at first...:scratch: I was gonna tell you to make sure your shoes matched your purse:whistle: