Brake bleeding

I found this in one of the other threads. I feel a challenge coming on!! Originally Posted by stevnmd 18 months ago you changed the fluid, eh? You really should bleed the brakes at LEAST once per year. Might as well change the fluid while you're at it. If you've never torn down your calipers, DO SO! If you want some help, let me know. I can post a write-up on how to do it without having to rebuild the entire caliper... After you do it once, it's SUPER easy... I SAY PROVE IT!!! Write a tutorial and include some pics so we know what you are talking about. Write something a ham-fisted clueless knuckle-buster like me can follow to do a simple procedure like this. I would love to do it myself, but I am afraid I'd F<(% it up and then have the pay the stealer, uh dealer, extra because I "helped". I am not afraid to admit I can't do some of these routine things...so how about some of you vets teach us how to do it???

Stuck this in Tech n Tuning for ya, so its easier reference! :)

Great topic. Ever since I bled my brakes and put in new fluid, they've felt like crap. I'd like to know how to do it correctly. :D

Great topic. Ever since I bled my brakes and put in new fluid, they've felt like crap. I'd like to know how to do it correctly. :D With a powerbleeder.

With a powerbleeder. What's that...a hemophiliac on speed??

Great topic. Ever since I bled my brakes and put in new fluid, they've felt like crap. I'd like to know how to do it correctly. :D are you talking about the last time we discussed ur brakes? they are still acting up since then?

Bleed Bleed Bleed Bietch!! O, I mean bleed those brakes!

are you talking about the last time we discussed ur brakes? they are still acting up since then? I haven't done anything with them... yet. They still work. :p: Doesn't a powerbleeder have a crank you turn to suction out the fluid?

I haven't done anything with them... yet. They still work. :p: Doesn't a powerbleeder have a crank you turn to suction out the fluid? Yep. http://www.nexternal.com/bimmerworl/images/PowerBleeder.JPG

I haven't done anything with them... yet. They still work. :p: Doesn't a powerbleeder have a crank you turn to suction out the fluid? The one I have uses air. Hook it up to the compressor and off you go. It goes through fluid at an alarming rate, though. It does work very quickly and efficiently on the plus side.

I bled my brakes, and replaced my fluid in the spring on my yamaha..just pumped it out via the brake lever, cleaned out the resevoir, replaced the fluid, and it works great ever since... whats the problem!! :wink:

What's that...a hemophiliac on speed?? :lols:

Great topic. Ever since I bled my brakes and put in new fluid, they've felt like crap. I'd like to know how to do it correctly. :D If the pedal is hard, not spongy, you can assume the bleeding was done right. If there is no fork oil, chain lube, or other contaminants on the rotors and pads, there could be a problem with the calipers. My Honda uses guide pins that the pads move on. My pins had worn grooves that hung up the pads. Got new pins from the dealer at a reasonable price and the brakes worked fine.

again, im going through old threads,,,,, little tip i found out over the years on brake bleeding...sometimes you can bleed the crap out them and they still feel spoungy (sp.), the little trick is to close the bottom bleeder, pump the lever and hold it and break the banjo bolt (one at the brake line) that is on the resevoir at the lever and bleed it there..(use a towell or something to catch the brake fluid)....sometimes no matter what u do you just cant clear the air bubbles that are right at the lever..this works in a lot of cases...

Midi Vac is the best and it is like 20 bucks with out the gauge

again, im going through old threads,,,,, little tip i found out over the years on brake bleeding...sometimes you can bleed the crap out them and they still feel spoungy (sp.), the little trick is to close the bottom bleeder, pump the lever and hold it and break the banjo bolt (one at the brake line) that is on the resevoir at the lever and bleed it there..(use a towell or something to catch the brake fluid)....sometimes no matter what u do you just cant clear the air bubbles that are right at the lever..this works in a lot of cases... To add to your tip about bleeding the line at the master reservoir, take a screw driver and tap each line starting at the caliper. Work your way up to the reservoir and then bleed. This will get the last trapped bubble or two of air out of the system. Mity-Vacs work well but your trying to pull the air bubble down through the line when it naturally wants to float to the top of the system. Plus, you end up using more fluid to get the system fully bled.

To add to your tip about bleeding the line at the master reservoir, take a screw driver and tap each line starting at the caliper. Work your way up to the reservoir and then bleed. This will get the last trapped bubble or two of air out of the system. Mity-Vacs work well but your trying to pull the air bubble down through the line when it naturally wants to float to the top of the system. Plus, you end up using more fluid to get the system fully bled. You can reuse the the fluid :yaewn: AND you you build up enough pressure before you open the bleeder, you get those air bubbles with not problems.

Just watch out with the brake fluid. IT WILL DESTROY YOUR PLASTICS IF YOU GET IT ON THERE AND DON'T CLEAN IT UP RIGHT AWAY!! Also, good tip there Jack...I'll keep that in mind!! :dthumb:

It doesnt happen instantly only if it is left on the paint for a few mins. My mastercylinder sprung a leak @ the track and covered my bike. I sprayed with a hose and it was fine. Just get it off fast.

That is what I said... clean it off right away!

You can reuse the the fluid :yaewn: AND you you build up enough pressure before you open the bleeder, you get those air bubbles with not problems. Yes, you can reuse the fluid but you have to buy more to start with. You can pressurize the system until it bursts but it won't help get the bubble that's trapped in the master piston.

You should keep keep brake fluid arond anyway. The only time my master cylinder piston had air trapped behind it was because I rebuilt it. If you use the old to new method none of that wouldnt happen.

You should keep keep brake fluid arond anyway. The only time my master cylinder piston had air trapped behind it was because I rebuilt it. If you use the old to new method none of that would happen. also happens when you install stainless brake lines..can be impossible to get out, unless you bleed it at the banjo bolt...

I usully let that sit cupfull of brake fluid to get get things primed. The banjo is hard to get going, but now most of the compinies that make the line, have made a sweet banjo bleeder that works great. I put goddrich lines on my bike and it was snap after I replaced the seal on the midivac.

If you use the old to new method none of that wouldnt happen. Care to translate that for me? What "methods" are you referring to? Mity-Vacs are excellent for priming new lines. SpeedBleeders also make bleeding the system easier, but they can have a tendency to allow air to re-enter the system over time.

I believe and could be wrong... When you're just replacing the old fluid with new fluid...as in for maintance purposes! Usually in that case, you just keep flushing till you get good new fluid at all calipers. I haven't seen it for bikes yet, but I know for cars, many import guys use colored brake fluid.... so you bleed out your yellow stuff with red fluid. So when you get good solid red clean color...the bleed is done. Then the next time you use blue...when you get good blue...done! Am I'm thinking what you're trying to say Twisty!!! If so that's a scary thought!!

I believe and could be wrong... When you're just replacing the old fluid with new fluid...as in for maintance purposes! Usually in that case, you just keep flushing till you get good new fluid at all calipers. I haven't seen it for bikes yet, but I know for cars, many import guys use colored brake fluid.... so you bleed out your yellow stuff with red fluid. So when you get good solid red clean color...the bleed is done. Then the next time you use blue...when you get good blue...done! Am I'm thinking what you're trying to say Twisty!!! If so that's a scary thought!! thats the way i always did the bike and the cars, but before i would start i would suck out fluid out of the tank with a turkey baster etc, and would top it off with new fluid so u werent dragging a lot of dirty and fluid that could contain moisture through the system... i dont know what u thing twisty is saying since im scared period... I dont know why this is becomming so difficult.(well i do but whatever) all that is being said, no matter if you do it by hand or if you do it with a vacume, and the lever still feels spongy, then break the banjo bolt at the master cause air bubbles love to gather there and its a pain to get it out... its not rocket science here boys... :tt:

I dont think it is hard to do, bleeding brakes is the ez'est for, of cycle maintance. Yeah chris thats it.

I got what you meant now. Just replacing the fluid is a simple task like you said. Jack is right that you should suck out the reservoir first (not all of it though...don't let it run dry or air will enter the system) as a lot of nasty stuff can collect in there and you don't want to pump it through the system. Brake fluids will change color (get darker) as they absorb moisture. If you use a clear tube for bleeding you'll be able to see the new clear brake fluid when it finally gets pumped through.

I usually use a rag or somin...but I guess the turkey baster would work well... just don't use the one from the kitchen..huh! :lol: The scary thought, was me getting what Twisty meant>>>> :lol: Anyway, I appreciate the input on the banja bolt. I will keep that in mind for sure... Anybody else heard anything about the colored brake fluid... REAL BIG in the import scene... it's sythetic and all but don't recall the rating.....

In auto shop( 4 years in highschool) the name of the method was called "Old to new" and that what I have always called since then. This way you chances of getting air bubbles is very slim if you know what your doing.

no matter if you do it by hand or if you do it with a vacume, and the lever still feels spongy, then break the banjo bolt at the master cause air bubbles love to gather there and its a pain to get it out... My R6 has a bleeder valve at the master cylinder, plus one at the bottom on the calipers. When you say "banjo bolt", are you talking about the bleeder valve up by the master cylinder? Or do your bikes not have that, so you're talking about a different way to do it?

My R6 has a bleeder valve at the master cylinder, plus one at the bottom on the calipers. When you say "banjo bolt", are you talking about the bleeder valve up by the master cylinder? Or do your bikes not have that, so you're talking about a different way to do it? The banjo bolt is the bolt that connects the brake lines to the caliper and the master cyclinder. The bleeder is screwed into the end of the banjo bolt at the master cylinder. All bikes have a bleeder on the calipers, but not all bikes have a bleeder on the banjo bolt at the master cylinder. After you get done bleeding the system through the bleeder at the calipers, you should also bleed the system through the bleeder at the master cyclinder to get the last remaining bubble(s) out.

see, someone realized that the banjo bolt use to catch air and installed a bleeder at the banjo bolt...progression is a wonderfull thing.. but if your bike doesnt have a bleeder at the banjo bolt at the master cylender, just loosen it like you would a bleeder... :dthumb:

When bleeding at the master cylinder do you still do the pump pump pump hold! Losen and re-tighten! ???????

When bleeding at the master cylinder do you still do the pump pump pump hold! Losen and re-tighten! ??????? yup, just like the caliper bleeder

The education that is going on in some of these treads is great.

yup, just like the caliper bleeder Thanks for the tip!! I'm sure I'll use it! :dthumb: