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Need help lowering a 2007 gsxr 600

37K views 34 replies 13 participants last post by  bikergal 
#1 ·
I just got my lowering links to lower my 07 gsxr 600...Is that all that i will need to lower it or are there tips anyone could give me about lowering a bike. Any info or advice would be appreciated.
 
#2 ·
:welcome:

Get the weight off the rear end and swap them out. Its not hard.

However you should lower the front the same amount to help with the bikes geometry. Then beware of ground clearances!
 
#5 ·
Yes don't forget the kickstand.... Good call! But on some bikes... alot of GSXRs don't need it too much though. They lean over a good amount stock... it just won't lean as much.. of coarse that depends on how much you lower it.
 
#7 ·
are you sure it's lowered? it may look lowered because of the original raked look of the bike... now it just sets level. other than lowering the triple clamp... the only think I've seen was straps... :idk: maybe shorter springs? but that'd reduce your travel of the forks
 
#9 ·
You can have the forks internally shorten as to not see the forks stick through the triple.
My GSXR handles so much better now :D, since the forks no longer float in the triple.
 
#10 ·
So how did you lower your bike GSXRGirl? You had a different link put on the bike? How exactly did they lower the front? Can you explain in a little more detail? Also what did you do with your kick stand? What do you mean by using the second hole on the dog bones??? Ya lost me there :scratch:
 
#8 ·
You will need to lower the front...it may not need to be the exact amount as the rear as you want to keep the bike at the same plane as the factory.

I did not have to cut or weld my kickstand. I used the 2nd hole on the dog bones...they say that is 1 1/2 inches...front forks were not lowered that much, less than 1 inch.

 
#11 ·
Ok.. dog bones... that is the part that connects your rear shock to the frame of the bike. One end of the shock is connected to the swing arm and the other to the dog bone that is connected to the frame.

As you can see on this SV650... the dog bones are at the bottom like most bikes..



Dog bone...

STOCK


3 way adjustable



Fully adjustable and there for better..plus you don't ahve to un-weight the rear to adjust it up or down. Just spin the center cause the eye loops are thread in.



Yes the most popular and cheapest fix for the front end is to slide the forks up thru the tripples. Some bikes come that way a little factory!

The other and more correct way is to actually replace or cut the fork springs...
 
#16 ·
I am currently testing my bike to see how much I can drop it.
For the SV there seems to be a couple stages of drop (with fixed dog bone) seems to be from 1/2" to 4"
so what I did (because I’m worried about the front shock dust boots getting beaten up by the lower triple trees).
What I did is marked out 4 grease pencil marks on the front forks.
One 1" from the bottom of the tree, one 2" down, one 3" down and one 4" down.
I’m going to ride it like that for a few weeks and then view the results. I would like to get it as low as possible (for pure aesthetics and the fact that I’m short) but I don’t want it to beat its self to death.
so the theory is that if the 4" grease pencil mark is warn off but not the 3" I know its safe to lower it 3". Shock wise, that’s not mentioning ground clearance.
The SV kick stand doesn’t settle much when you put it down. so I am going to cut mine down. I ride out to the country allot so that means parking on very un-even land. I am paranoid enough as it is much less with the bike standing straighter up.
If you only ride and park on pavement I wouldn’t worry too much about it with only an inch drop.

I have seen lowering straps. Does this compress your front shocks, making a stiffer ride and lowering it?

That was another thing I was considering. Doing my grease pencil markings at the stock squishy setting, then with the pre-load kicked up. and then maybe get my hands on a set of cheap straps and doing the same.
 
#17 ·
I have seen lowering straps. Does this compress your front shocks, making a stiffer ride and lowering it?

That was another thing I was considering. Doing my grease pencil markings at the stock squishy setting, then with the pre-load kicked up. and then maybe get my hands on a set of cheap straps and doing the same.
I'm surprised no one has answered this yet. As far as I know, those straps are for drag racing only. They help hold the front end down and keep your suspension from bouncing and soaking up any power that should go to the track.
 
#19 ·
Furthermore, if you're concerned about compression in the forks. The old trick is to put a zip tie on your fork. For standard forks... see how far you push it up. For upside down forks see how far you push it down.
 
#23 ·
I have heard that whatever distance you lower the back, you must lower the front the same so you dont compromise ride quality. I bought a lowering link from diamond powersports and a kickstand from roaring toyz. The drops on the link are 2 and a quarter and 4 and a quarter i believe. I was getting ready to lower my bike over the weekend and realized that the fork tubes on my 06 gsxr 750 narrow below the lower tripple clamp (I am assuming the 07 750 and the 06-07 600 are the same). I am going to pick up an extra set of fork tubes and send them off to Trac Dynamics to have them shortened and set up a little more firm to prevent full compression. I have heard the straps are not safe for everyday riding so I feel this is the best solution.
 
#25 · (Edited)
So a friend of mine and I just got into a discussion about lowering my bike. I was told it is a bad idea and I shouldn't do it. Is it really that bad of an idea? I mean I think dropping the bike because I can't touch the ground for sh*t would be worse? No? I plan on only a 2 inch drop. That doesn't seem to be all that bad.... :idk:


What is everyones opinion on the matter? Should I not do this? I am worried more about adjusting the front than the back. I am curious how they are gonna adjust the front?? :skep:

:ffedback: <---- Why does the face look so mean??? hahaha.....



 
#27 ·
Its only bad cause it screws with the bike geometry and really decreases the ground clearance which not only plays with getting over bumps and thru potholes but also plays on cornering.
 
#28 ·
it isn't bad to lower the bike. if you lower the back, you must lower the front as well. as Gas man pointed out, you are altering the bikes geometry. this can be adjusted. 2 inches is alot to lower. but you can compensate by tighting the suspension to avoid bottoming out.

the easiest way to lower the front is by sliding the fork tubes up the triple clamps. but it looks hideous. to make it look nice, you can replace the fork springs with shorter/fatter ones. it will reduce your suspension travel. but at least it looks better.

to predermine your travel on the front, put a plastic (zip tie) on one of the lower for legs and slide it up to the rubber dust shield. ride it around normally and see how far the plastic tie drops. if it touches the bottom of the lower tube, then you need to increase the fork preload. sorry, no pics.

if the front is higher than the rear, it will be harder to steer through a corner. lower than the rear, it will feel like the bike is falling into the corner (faster steering) but will reduce high speed stability (potential tank slapper).

with reduce ride height, your cornering clearance is also reduced. no more knee dragging on lowered bikes. expect to scrape the side panels.

-a|ex
 
#31 ·
just make sure you have the pre-load kicked up enough to keep from banging the bottom of the tripple trees.

I just took a look at the zip ties I put on my shock bodys a couple of weeks ago. The zip ties are less than an inch from the bottom of the trees.
I am going to kick up the pre-loads and try it again.
 
#34 ·
Umm- on my bike (Nina650R) it might be a problem, but the GSXR has inverted forks so it houldn't be a problem. A lot of bikes (non SS) still have forks where the body is down toward the axle.
 
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