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post #1 of 86 (permalink) Old 08-20-2007, 04:59 PM Thread Starter
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Fun with rc51

so the insurance has been started and the plans are made to pick it up friday, i have these mods planned in quick order

1. soft mod

2. flapper valve mod

3. PAIR mod

4. new plugs

after that a PCIIIr is in order and have the suspension tuner in TN give it a go over and if possible have him dyno tune it, after that ride and enjoy for many years, a track day is in order before the year is up, anyone thinking about going to midohio with the stt ppl



"It takes alot of anything to make my bike to something"
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post #2 of 86 (permalink) Old 08-20-2007, 05:00 PM Thread Starter
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soft mod

http://www.rc51.org/b2a15.htm





This is the simple kit I put together & distribute


Remove your tail section & undo the T shaped cover attached (4 push pins) on the bottom of the tail section right behind the battery. Under that there will be a black ECU box with a gray connector & a black connector.

This mod is best done with the PCII, as you can do the mod by splicing into the PCII harness instead of the ECU harness & if you ever need to undo the mod you can make it look 100% stock

You can obtain your own connectors from a cd-audio cable (pictured below) as it has the perfect size connectors to match the ECU pins.











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(C) 2001 www.rc51.org ROGUE



"It takes alot of anything to make my bike to something"
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post #3 of 86 (permalink) Old 08-20-2007, 05:01 PM
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I thought that you were going to give that bike to one of the TWF members for free?
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post #4 of 86 (permalink) Old 08-20-2007, 05:02 PM Thread Starter
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flapper mod

http://www.rc51.org/valve.htm


Many of you have complained about the dip in power between 5000 & 7000 rpm & others like myself have had an annoying fueling glitch (hiccup) at 6800 rpms especially with the Moriwaki's & a good map installed, although all the bikes are affected by the flapper valve, certain exhaust & map combos highlight this problem. Bill Staab has found a solution! (and wrote most of what you are about to read...)

By disconnecting the vacuum line to the flapper valve in the air intake duct you can completely eliminate the hiccup at 6800 rpm & reduce the power dip we have all seen on the dyno runs between 5000 & 7000 rpm.

As the flapper valve is an air intake noise control device which is not used on the basic racer, but rather only on the street legal bikes where noise levels are monitored by the EPA. It is advised that you only do this mod to "race only" bikes.

Having gotten the legal disclaimer out of the way let's get back to the flapper valves function. The valve is partially responsible for the power dip between 5000/7000 RPM. The flap is normally open. If you disconnect the vacuum line it will always stay open. You can remove the flap if you like. although it shouldn't make much difference with the stock air box. The HRC and Moriwaki air boxes have a larger duct with no flap for the race motors. The flap closes at about 5500 rpm which reduces the intake duct about 65%. It opens back up about 6700 rpm. This is done to reduce intake noise on the road bikes. The mod is done by simply disconnecting the hose at the diaphragm switch & plugging the hose with a screw,bolt or whatever you find handy or aesthetically pleasing.

Diagram below






Instructions courtesy of Troy Gwin

This guide will show you how to remove the entire Intake Air Control System (Flapper Valve System.) The parts removed will included the vacuum tank, solenoid valve, diaphragm and hoses pictured in Figure 1. We will also remove the Intake Air Duct Valve assembly pictured in Figure 5.

To begin, remove the upper fairing. Then disconnect the BARO sensor connector and remove the four screws along with the intake duct A (Figure 2).


Next, remove the vacuum tube from the air duct valve control diaphragm (Figure 3). We'll be throwing this tube out in a few minutes.


Turn the diaphragm counterclockwise and remove it from the air intake B. Unhook the diaphragm rod from the air duct valve and remove the diaphragm (Figure 4).


Now we can remove the Intake Air Duct Valve or Flapper (Figure 5).
Begin by removing the screw and plug in Figure 6.

Next, remove the valve pin by wiggling the Intake Air Duct Valve (the bike must be on it's side stand for the pin to fall out (Figure 7).






Now it's time to modify the diaphragm. The new diaphragm replacement can be purchased from Dan Kyle Racing (831) 394-1330 for approximately $20. I prefer his replacement cover as it used the stock retainer to hold it in place.

Just grind off the studs that are holding the clip in place by using a bench grinder or hand grinder (Figure 8). Then attach the clip to the new cover provided by Dan Kyle (Figure 9).




Finally, reinstall the diaphragm replacement cover in a clockwise motion until it comes to a complete stop. (Figure 10)

Now we'll move on to the Solenoid Valve removal. Remove the right radiator (or at least loosen it enough to get behind it a bit.)


Now disconnect the connector and vacuum tubes from the solenoid valve (Figure 11). Remove the mounting bolt, nut and the solenoid valve from the stay. Both these tubes can now be discarded.


To remove the Vacuum Tank, first disconnect the vacuum tubes from the tank. Then you are free to remove the mounting bold, nut and the vacuum tank from the stay (Figure 12). The vacuum tube that was connected to the solenoid can be discarded, but the other tube (which is connected to the throttle body) needs to be plugged. A small screw works good for this.



"It takes alot of anything to make my bike to something"
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post #5 of 86 (permalink) Old 08-20-2007, 05:04 PM Thread Starter
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PAIR mod

http://www.rc51.org/pair.htm





The exhaust emission control system consists of a secondary air supply system which introduces filtered air into the exhaust gases in the exhaust port. Fresh air is drawn into the exhaust port whenever there is a negative pressure pulse in the exhaust system. This charge of fresh air promotes burning of the unburned exhaust gases and changes a considerable amount of hydrocarbons and carbon monoxide into relatively harmless carbon dioxide and water vapor. The PAIR system is controlled by the ECM using check valves and a solenoid.
Removal of the PAIR system will yield three main benefits: 1) weight reduction 2) reduction of engine compartment clutter 3) increase in the scavenging ability of the exhaust system.

PAIR System Diagram (Figure 1)




Begin by lifting the tank and removing the cover from the airbox. Next remove the rear velocity stack. Once the velocity stack is out we can remove the air filters, starting with the left (air filters may be modified at this time--see "Air Filter Modification Guide" in the mod section.) (Figure 2) With the air filters out of the airbox, unscrew the front velocity stack (note: the rubber plug on top of the airbox must be removed to access the forward screw on the front stack.) The front stack will remain in the airbox (Figure 3.) The airbox is now free of the throttle bodies and can be lifted slightly to expose the three hoses attached to the bottom. Disconnect all three hoses (one on the right, two on the left) and remove the airbox.

The larger black hose in Figure 4 is the filtered air supply hose for the PAIR system and the pink hose is the airbox drain tube. OPTIONAL: The pink hose can be removed from the left side of the bike. The other hose will be removed later.

It is now time to remove the front and rear PAIR Check Valve Covers. (Figure 5) Rear cover not pictured.

Front Cover: Requires removal of the lower inner fairing.
Rear Cover: Requires the tank to be propped as high as possible.

OPTIONAL: The PAIR Check Valve and the Flame Arrestor can be removed (Figure 6), although this will remove the seal between the PAIR Check Valve Cover and the engine. When this is done an alternate sealing method must be used (i.e. liquid gasket) when reinstalling the PAIR Check Valve Cover.

In order to plug the hole in the PAIR Check Valve Cover, we need to use an appropriate metal bonding epoxy (JB Weld works wonders) (Figure 7). The JB Weld will need something to rest against when it is gooped into the hole. We stuffed a wad of paper down the hole leaving about a half-inch of space for the JB Weld to set in. The paper will remain in the PAIR Check Valve Cover. Both covers need to be plugged in the same fashion. The PAIR Check Valve Covers can be reinstalled after the JB Weld has cured for approximately 4 hours, however, the engine should not be started until the JB Weld is fully cured.
** This step can be avoided by purchasing Block-off plates from Dan Kyle.






While the covers are curing, we will remove the PAIR Control Solenoid Valve and attached hoses. First, disconnect the solenoid plug located at the front of the bike under the oil cooler (Figure 8). You will have to peel back the black weatherproof boot to expose the connector. The solenoid (Figure 9) is now free and can be removed (it is mounted on a metal rod via a rubber grommet) along with the attached hoses (Figure 10.)




























Now we just need to seal the remaining holes in the airbox. This can be accomplished in a variety of ways. Here we've used tennis racket tape, which has been secured using string (Figure 11) and then sealed with liquid vinyl (Figure 12). Rubber caps could also be used.
In order to provide a drainage point for the airbox [needed if the pink drain tube was removed (Figure 4)] a small hole can be punctured through the center of the seal in the larger outlet "nipple" once the seal had dried.

Once everything has cured, the bike is ready for re-assembly.









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"It takes alot of anything to make my bike to something"
2001 RC51
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post #6 of 86 (permalink) Old 08-20-2007, 05:06 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grafixx01 View Post
I thought that you were going to give that bike to one of the TWF members for free?
your drunk





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post #7 of 86 (permalink) Old 08-20-2007, 05:11 PM
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your drunk


Just figured it was worth a shot! You know, donate it to the ISPTBABSATWFMIGITM Foundation!

(I'm So Poor To Buy A Bike, So A Two Wheel Forum Member Is Giving It To Me Foundation)
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post #8 of 86 (permalink) Old 08-20-2007, 05:24 PM Thread Starter
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and a 42t rear sprocket is on order



"It takes alot of anything to make my bike to something"
2001 RC51
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post #9 of 86 (permalink) Old 08-21-2007, 12:49 AM
 
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I thought that you were going to give that bike to one of the TWF members for free?
And I thought you were getting one of them sparkly things for PC

You are sooooo gonna love the RC!
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post #10 of 86 (permalink) Old 08-21-2007, 08:31 AM
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Sounds like somebody has been plucking things from Twisty's mind! Be carefull in there... its a tricky spot!




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post #11 of 86 (permalink) Old 08-21-2007, 06:00 PM
 
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i want pictures
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post #12 of 86 (permalink) Old 08-21-2007, 11:03 PM
 
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You are in for a treat my friend. I am on my 2nd RC now and will ride nothing else for a very long time. Along with the mod list you have add a Dan Kyle rear link as well. As you are about to find out there is something about the RC that just can not be put into words.
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post #13 of 86 (permalink) Old 08-22-2007, 04:36 AM
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I just violated a chick's most guarded and sacred area... beat that with your RC51...
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post #14 of 86 (permalink) Old 08-22-2007, 08:40 AM
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I just violated a chick's most guarded and sacred area... beat that with your RC51...
Yeah you are like my idol!!




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post #15 of 86 (permalink) Old 08-22-2007, 08:45 AM
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Lets post some pics of this beast.
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post #16 of 86 (permalink) Old 08-22-2007, 09:20 AM
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Quote:
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I just violated a chick's most guarded and sacred area... beat that with your RC51...
Quote:
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Yeah you are like my idol!!
I don't know Gas... From OSPs other posts, I hope she was / is over 18!
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post #17 of 86 (permalink) Old 08-22-2007, 01:00 PM
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I don't know Gas... From OSPs other posts, I hope she was / is over 18!
26...
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post #18 of 86 (permalink) Old 08-22-2007, 04:46 PM
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Lets post some pics of this beast.


The RC, or OSP's recent victory???

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they make the one i posted in a strap on version
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post #19 of 86 (permalink) Old 08-22-2007, 04:53 PM
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The RC, or OSP's recent victory???
The RC of course.
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post #20 of 86 (permalink) Old 08-23-2007, 10:31 PM
 
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I just violated a chick's most guarded and sacred area... beat that with your RC51...
Yea but I have a ? Does it really count when it is your sister?
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