Bleeding Brakes - TwoWheelForum: Motorcycle and Sportbike forums
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post #1 of 37 (permalink) Old 07-05-2006, 04:35 PM Thread Starter
 
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Bleeding Brakes

Dear Gents/Ladies,
When I go bleed the brakes on my bike is it any different (other then size) then bleeding a car?

Thanks,
Bill
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post #2 of 37 (permalink) Old 07-05-2006, 04:37 PM
 
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not really, advice tho, get a hose to attach to the bleeder so you dont waste fluid, jus goes back in the bottle
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post #3 of 37 (permalink) Old 07-05-2006, 04:38 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wgc_3
Dear Gents/Ladies,
When I go bleed the brakes on my bike is it any different (other then size) then bleeding a car?

Thanks,
Bill
Nope. Just don't get any on your rotors or pads or plastics. Let 'em gravity bleed and pump and hold. You know he rest. Don't forget there's a bango bolt on the master cylinder (front) that needs bleeding too. And get matching brake fluid. usually DOT 4 or higher but don't blend.
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post #4 of 37 (permalink) Old 07-05-2006, 04:38 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stomper173
not really, advice tho, get a hose to attach to the bleeder so you dont waste fluid, jus goes back in the bottle
Good advice.
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post #5 of 37 (permalink) Old 07-05-2006, 05:17 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stomper173
not really, advice tho, get a hose to attach to the bleeder so you dont waste fluid, jus goes back in the bottle
Only do this if your fluid in the brake system is clean to begin with. last thing you want to do is put dirty crap back into the system and go for your brakes only to find they dont work.
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post #6 of 37 (permalink) Old 07-05-2006, 07:19 PM
 
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I think my brake fluid needs to be changed, but my book tells me to take it to a dealer. It is a lot darker than all of my friends brake fluid. Should I attempt changing it??
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post #7 of 37 (permalink) Old 07-05-2006, 07:30 PM
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Why does in need to be changed? Over 10k?

Its a relatively simple job. The bleeder kits make this job even easier.

Make sure to keep a close check on the fluid level. The small reservoir will bleed out quickly and leave you worse off than when you started.
Like said before, don't let any fluid get on the paint or other components of the bike. If it does, clean it off immediately. The fluid will destroy any paint if left on.

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post #8 of 37 (permalink) Old 07-05-2006, 08:02 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by apfire26
I think my brake fluid needs to be changed, but my book tells me to take it to a dealer. It is a lot darker than all of my friends brake fluid. Should I attempt changing it??
yes. its supposed to be clear, not beer. i actually have a midivac but i keep forgeting i have it. Heres my procedure for anyone who may find it useful, flame it if you want. Note: only use newly opened Brake Fluid. NEVER ANY THAT HAS BEEN SITTING AROUND.
  • Open resevoir and top off if needed.
  • Fit clear tubing on bleeder valve to sufficent container.
  • squeeze, crack bleeder, squeeze squeeze squeeze hold, close bleeder.
  • Top off and repeat.


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post #9 of 37 (permalink) Old 07-05-2006, 08:04 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by apfire26
I think my brake fluid needs to be changed, but my book tells me to take it to a dealer. It is a lot darker than all of my friends brake fluid. Should I attempt changing it??
Brake fluid comes in different colors also. Usually based on Rating, but I've seen it in yellow (standard) and a purple... you could just have different stuff. With clean hands, tip a finger in. If is smooth and slimy, don't bother, if you feel any kind of grit or particles. Take it to the dealer, it will need to be drained, flushed, filled, bled and topped off... give the dealer the liability.
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post #10 of 37 (permalink) Old 07-05-2006, 08:07 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeeps84
Why does in need to be changed? Over 10k?

Its a relatively simple job. The bleeder kits make this job even easier.

Make sure to keep a close check on the fluid level. The small reservoir will bleed out quickly and leave you worse off than when you started.
Like said before, don't let any fluid get on the paint or other components of the bike. If it does, clean it off immediately. The fluid will destroy any paint if left on.

I got my bike with 8400 miles on it and now, about a month later, I have about 10200 miles on it. I think its prolly the original fluid and it is beer colored.
I guess I need to buy that bleeder kit and learn how to do it.
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post #11 of 37 (permalink) Old 07-05-2006, 08:17 PM
 
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you dont have to have the kit, though it is faster.
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post #12 of 37 (permalink) Old 07-05-2006, 08:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JK_DILLA
you dont have to have the kit, though it is faster.

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post #13 of 37 (permalink) Old 07-05-2006, 08:22 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JK_DILLA
you dont have to have the kit, though it is faster.
I guess faster also means easier??
It will be my first time ever doing brake fluid so I'll prolly need all the help I can get.
Also, can I get a kit like that from Sears or any kind of auto parts store, or are they just online?
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post #14 of 37 (permalink) Old 07-05-2006, 08:34 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by King Bob
Only do this if your fluid in the brake system is clean to begin with. last thing you want to do is put dirty crap back into the system and go for your brakes only to find they dont work.
yah gd pnt, and also provided the fluid is the same, dont mix fluids
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post #15 of 37 (permalink) Old 07-05-2006, 08:41 PM
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I'm sure some if not all parts houses should have'em available.

The link I provided was just the first one I came across in a Goggle search.

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post #16 of 37 (permalink) Old 07-05-2006, 08:52 PM
 
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brake fluid absorbs moisture in the air. never save brake fluid. always use a new sealed bottle of brake fluid. throw out any that has been opened.

before bleeding, dump some water on the wheels/rotors/calipers/side fairings. this will protect it from brake fluid errosion. do this continuously throughout the bleeding process.

gravity bleeding is sufficient. fill it up completely so no air is trapped on the top reservoir seal. change brake fluid when color gets dark. it will vary with use and weather conditions.

if you want maintenance free brake fluids, switch to DOT 5 and steel braided lines.

-a|ex
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post #17 of 37 (permalink) Old 07-05-2006, 09:09 PM
 
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Originally Posted by Back _Marker
brake fluid absorbs moisture in the air. never save brake fluid. always use a new sealed bottle of brake fluid. throw out any that has been opened.

before bleeding, dump some water on the wheels/rotors/calipers/side fairings. this will protect it from brake fluid errosion. do this continuously throughout the bleeding process.

gravity bleeding is sufficient. fill it up completely so no air is trapped on the top reservoir seal. change brake fluid when color gets dark. it will vary with use and weather conditions.

if you want maintenance free brake fluids, switch to DOT 5 and steel braided lines.

-a|ex
or use a .25 clear plastic tube, no mess and if its all new fluid, you can just hose it back in a diff bott
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post #18 of 37 (permalink) Old 07-05-2006, 09:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeeps84
Why does in need to be changed? Over 10k?

Its a relatively simple job. The bleeder kits make this job even easier.

Make sure to keep a close check on the fluid level. The small reservoir will bleed out quickly and leave you worse off than when you started.
Like said before, don't let any fluid get on the paint or other components of the bike. If it does, clean it off immediately. The fluid will destroy any paint if left on.
just purchased 2 kits one mityvac the other Actron both make it a BREEZE!!!
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post #19 of 37 (permalink) Old 07-06-2006, 12:07 AM
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WOW... lots to say on this one...

If all you want to do is change your fluid there are easy ways.

Yes there is colored brake fluid. You can get it in any color. So you have what use to be clear and now is brown. So buy blue fluid... soak up what's in your resv and refill with blue stuff... bleed the brakes till you run some good blue thru the bleeder. This doesn't introduce any air into the system as long as you keep the resv full (keep an eye on this!!!!)!!!!!

Changed the lines... get a oral syringe (sp?) from a drug store... after hooking up the new lines... use this to put the new fluid in the brake line where the banjo bolt goes... just squirt it in there...then hook it up... and bleed. Also be sure to tap the lines to bring that trapped air up to the banjo bolt and like stated... bleed that MANY TIMES!

Yes... do not save standard brake fluid. It holds moisture and that destroys it.

Further, normal brake fluid will eat paint, plastic, and many other things! Be carefull.

HOWEVER!!!!! There is a solution to these last problems. Get DOT 5 Silicone brake fluid. doesn't capture moisture and won't destroy stuff! It will run you about $10-$12 for a small pint bottle but its well worth it!




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post #20 of 37 (permalink) Old 07-06-2006, 12:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gas Man
HOWEVER!!!!! There is a solution to these last problems. Get DOT 5 Silicone brake fluid. doesn't capture moisture and won't destroy stuff! It will run you about $10-$12 for a small pint bottle but its well worth it!
The old fluid has to be completely flushed to use the DOT 5. They don't mix.

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