rear tire removal: how to cbr f2/f3 - TwoWheelForum: Motorcycle and Sportbike forums
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-02-2006, 05:35 PM Thread Starter
 
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rear tire removal: how to cbr f2/f3

I decided to finally change my own rear tire today. I have been searching for a how to to post up here.. Through my searching I found some good info... here's what I got....

Disclaimer - This tutorial is a step-by-step guide for removing the rear wheel. Although an F3 is used for this tutorial, much of this is applicable to motorcycles in general. However, the tools used and torque values stated may differ for your bike. Therefore, check your own service manual or other authorative source for tool sizes and torque values for your bike.

DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK... IF YOU HAVE NEVER WORKED ON A BIKE OR CAR BEFORE TAKE IT TO THE DEALER.. IF YOU ARE MECHANICALLY INCLINED GIVE IT A SHOT...

Tools required:
- rear stand
- 12mm wrench/socket
- 14mm wrench
- 22mm wrench/socket
- 27mm wrench/socket
- all purpose grease
- torque wrench

Wheel Removal

Step 1
Suspend the rear of the bike. A rear stand is recommended.


Step 2
Remove the rear caliper bolt with a 12mm wrench.


Step 3
Loosen and remove the rear axle nut with a 27mm wrench. You may need to secure the axle bolt with a 22m wrench on the other side of the swingarm.


Step 4
Manipulate chain adjusters so that the rear wheel can be pushed forward. There should be a chain adjuster on each side of the swingarm. Once this is done, push the wheel forward and take the chain off the sprocket.


Step 5
Remove the rear axle. Be prepared to support the rear wheel as it falls out.


Step 6
Rotate the rear brake caliper upward so the wheel can easily be removed (if it hasn't been removed already. The rear brake pad retainer clip may fall out of the caliper. Make sure you do not lose this.


Step 7 (optional)
The most common reason for removing the rear wheel is so that the wheel can be taken to a shop for the tire replacement. If this is the case, it is strongly suggested that the cush drive be removed. It is NOT needed for tire installation and balancing so why take the risk that it get lost or damaged??

Removal of the cush drive is quite easy. You should be able to pull it off by hand since it is not secured with fasteners of any sort.


Step 8 (optional)
A continuation of Step 7, remove the cush bushing from inside the rear wheel hub.


Step 9 (optional)
A continuation of Step 8, remove the spacer from the rear wheel hub.


Rear wheel removal is not complete. Do not enage the rear brake pedal while the rear wheel is off. This may cause the brake piston to push outward and it may be difficult to get it back into the caliper.

Wheel Installation
The installation is more or less the reverse of the wheel removal procedure.

Step 1
Grease the right wheel spacer then install it into the rear wheel hub.


Step 2
Grease the left rear wheel spacer and install into the cush drive. If the cush bushings and cush drive were removed during the removal process, then they should be installed now. Check the cush bearings for wear. Replace them if necessary.


Step 3
Grease the rear axle.


Step 4
Install the rear axle. This step can be difficult because it involves aligning the left chain adjuster, the left rear spacer, the wheel, the right wheel spacer, the rear brake bracket, and the right chain adjuster. There is no real easy way to do this (but you will get better with practice).


Step 5
Adjust the chain adjusters with a 14mm and 12mm wrenches such that the chain has the necessary amount of chain slack. The chain adjusters on both sides of the swingarms should be at the same amount of adjustment. Use the chain wear indicators to make sure the chain adjusters are adjusted the same amount.


Step 6
Once the chain is adjusted properly, tighten the rear axle nut to 69 lb-ft.


Step 7
Rotate the rear caliper so that it can be installed onto the rear wheel. NOTE: the rear caliper brake pad retainer clip may have fallen out during your rear wheel removal. If so, then install the retainer clip prior to re-installing the rear brake calper


Step 8
Tighten the rear caliper bolt. Torque is 17 lb-ft.


Wheel installation is now complete. You may need to pump the rear brake pedal several times to build up the necessary hydraulic pressure in the brake lines.











courtesy cbrworld.net
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-02-2006, 07:30 PM
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Again, another informative greatly detailed post as with the front wheel removal.. I would give you more rep points but it said I can't give it to you again..



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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-02-2006, 07:32 PM Thread Starter
 
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Again, another informative greatly detailed post as with the front wheel removal.. I would give you more rep points but it said I can't give it to you again..
i can wait.............................................. ..........................................
.................................................. ........still waiting..........
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-02-2006, 07:36 PM
 
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Good post-

humble tip: i use a piece of old rain gutter to ramp the tire in place while i reinstall the axel. But a piece of wood cut at an angle would do well too.
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-02-2006, 07:43 PM
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Question, so when you say removal is not needed so y risk it? You're saying that to get your tire changed, you shouldn't remove this right?



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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-02-2006, 07:54 PM
 
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are you talking about the cush drive? If so, he means that its not nessicary for tire service, so keeping them on the wheel will mean just one more thing for the shop to possibly lose.
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-02-2006, 08:03 PM
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okokok I got it, just the way that he said made it seem like, why take it out when you could damage/lose it... Now that you say that, it makes a lot more sense.



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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-02-2006, 08:12 PM Thread Starter
 
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Originally Posted by JK_DILLA View Post
are you talking about the cush drive? If so, he means that its not nessicary for tire service, so keeping them on the wheel will mean just one more thing for the shop to possibly lose.
correct!
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-02-2006, 09:21 PM
 
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Good tutorial. But it misses step 4.5 on the axle installation. That's where you cuss a lot as you push the axle with one hand, guide it through the swingarm, spacer, wheel, brake caliper holder, another spacer, and the other side of the swingarm, while holding the wheel in position, and picking up the spacers as they fall on the floor.

I use a shovel under the wheel and raise or lower the wheel with my elbow, while my hands are busy pushing and guiding the axle and spacers.
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-02-2006, 09:32 PM Thread Starter
 
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Originally Posted by No Worries View Post
Good tutorial. But it misses step 4.5 on the axle installation. That's where you cuss a lot as you push the axle with one hand, guide it through the swingarm, spacer, wheel, brake caliper holder, another spacer, and the other side of the swingarm, while holding the wheel in position, and picking up the spacers as they fall on the floor.

I use a shovel under the wheel and raise or lower the wheel with my elbow, while my hands are busy pushing and guiding the axle and spacers.
2 funny..... good idea about the shovel...
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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-03-2006, 04:03 PM Thread Starter
 
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i had to post this because i'm an attention whore... i love getting rep so I have to find useful stuff... no more ....

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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-04-2006, 11:40 PM Thread Starter
 
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Originally Posted by tatersalad View Post
i had to post this because i'm an attention whore... i love getting rep so I have to find useful stuff... no more ....

i hope that this is pic is not outside TWF regulations...
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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-04-2006, 11:57 PM
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Pic is ok and like NW stated.
Things always seem to fall out. As for holding the wheel for reinstall. I sit behind the bike and set the tire on my foot. Then lift my foot to lift the tire in place.

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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-05-2006, 08:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeeps84 View Post
Pic is ok and like NW stated.
Things always seem to fall out. As for holding the wheel for reinstall. I sit behind the bike and set the tire on my foot. Then lift my foot to lift the tire in place.
That's about what I do!




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post #15 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-06-2006, 01:13 AM
 
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This is very worthy of rep points. helped me on the EX500 pulling the rear wheel off of that.
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post #16 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-11-2006, 10:39 AM Thread Starter
 
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This is very worthy of rep points. helped me on the EX500 pulling the rear wheel off of that.
tee hee i'm a rep whore......
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post #17 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-11-2006, 11:45 AM
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You missed the step where you put the rear wheel/cush drive/sprocket in a box addressed to me and then ship it to me.


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post #18 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-11-2006, 10:27 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by No Worries View Post
Good tutorial. But it misses step 4.5 on the axle installation. That's where you cuss a lot as you push the axle with one hand, guide it through the swingarm, spacer, wheel, brake caliper holder, another spacer, and the other side of the swingarm, while holding the wheel in position, and picking up the spacers as they fall on the floor.
captive spacers are more than worth it.
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post #19 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-12-2006, 08:32 AM
 
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One warning here that I've read many places: treat the rotors as if they were glass when messing with wheels.
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post #20 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-12-2006, 09:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kanwisch View Post
One warning here that I've read many places: treat the rotors as if they were glass when messing with wheels.
Good point. Those things are tuff but spuriously get damaged easily with miss handling. You most be very careful how and where you lay/place a wheel. Most rear rotors will be safe due to the tire protecting it but vulnerable with tire off rim. The front rotors are always at risk.

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