Removing oil pan wise? 95 ZX6E - TwoWheelForum: Motorcycle and Sportbike forums
 
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-09-2006, 05:30 PM Thread Starter
 
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Removing oil pan wise? 95 ZX6E

been awhile since i've been on forum, update from last time throughly cleaned out all carbs pilot jets were gummed up and readjusted float height and pilot screws, all is well.

Now since its fast appraching my oil change time i was wondering if it would be wise to get to the oil pump screen and clean that out as well. obviously i have to remove the oil pan but is this wise? would the transmission fall out the bottom or will it be okay since i havn't torn into the bottom yet on this motor. any help or suggestions on this?
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-09-2006, 08:55 PM
 
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I wouldn't remove the oil pan unless I dropped a bolt into the engine. Just change the oil and filter every 3K.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-09-2006, 11:12 PM
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Originally Posted by No Worries View Post
I wouldn't remove the oil pan unless I dropped a bolt into the engine. Just change the oil and filter every 3K.
EXACTLY!

No reason... I bet Thirdgen (TWF user) and his 71,000 mile F4i hasn't dropped his oil pan for such reasons or for any reason actually.

Just no need.

Now you could do various things to help clean out the motor... like change the oil every 500 miles a few times.... but I would just leave it at that!




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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-09-2006, 11:41 PM
 
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IMO, clean oil filter and good oil at the proper intervals is the only thing you need to do to keep the pan clean. unless theres foreign material in there, it dont need to come off.
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-10-2006, 05:04 AM
 
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I've dropped my oil pan twice. It's not fun. Avoid it at all costs. Just change your oil and filter. Let sleeping dogs lie.



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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-11-2006, 06:41 AM Thread Starter
 
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alright i shall take your advice but i was just thinking of dropping it since the last REAL service on the bike is unknown, also mostly all of my intake valves have heavy deposits of carbon and on #3 the carbon is turning white? i found a can of Evinrude Engine tuner and i figure its almost the same as Sea Foam.

You think i should use the engine tuner?
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-11-2006, 10:47 PM
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Sounds like you need to sync your carbs...

Also, side note... Kaw is known for placing different size jets in each cylinder's carb. I know thats the way my 9R was from the factory.




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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-12-2006, 10:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KillerR33d View Post
alright i shall take your advice but i was just thinking of dropping it since the last REAL service on the bike is unknown, also mostly all of my intake valves have heavy deposits of carbon and on #3 the carbon is turning white? i found a can of Evinrude Engine tuner and i figure its almost the same as Sea Foam.

You think i should use the engine tuner?
I never tried it. Subscribed to see replies.

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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-14-2006, 10:16 PM
 
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An old mechanics trick i learned back in the dreaded school of wyotech was if you wanna clean out deposits put automatic tranny fliud in instead of oil and run this for about 100-200 miles, then drain it replace the filter and add natural oil not syn. run that for about 500 and change oil and filter again and that should help clean some deposits out i know it works on cars i havent personally done it on bikes but im going to on my in a couple weeks so if you like i can let you know how it goes. Tranny fluid is the same as oil it just has more addiditives so it will help keep it cleaner and i see no reason why it wouldnt be able to take it unless a seal, gasket or clutch couldnt take the detergents but ive heard that trick many times and its supposed to be a cheap way to help clean out your motor.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-16-2006, 12:26 PM Thread Starter
 
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Sounds like a good trick but wouldnt it possibly contaminate the friction plates on the clutch? not sure so may pass! anywho since ive tightened up the chain take it out for 10 miles ride to heat her up and spray the engine tuner down her throat(s) and i'll let you guys know what goes on!
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-16-2006, 01:30 PM
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Yeah I was going to say the auto fluid trick but I'm not sure what it will do to the clutch as said. So I never said it.

In a drivetrain that the clutch doesn't share the motor oil..yes... but on these jap sportbikes... it might not be a good idea.




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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-16-2006, 03:28 PM
 
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I am pretty sure that tranny fluid has some friction modifiers in it that could potentially screw up your clutch, so I wouldnt suggest trying it on a bike with a wet clutch.
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-18-2006, 08:54 PM Thread Starter
 
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Right, i used the engine tuner...lots of smoke followed, i let it sit for about 2 1/2 hours and burned it off for 20 mins. can still smell it every time i come to a stop guess its going to be awhile. Also know know my pipes arn't sealed properly at the collector after seeing smoe odd oil crap spew out from a minute gap...mmmm

Well it runs a lil better and has almost lost its tendency to want to overheat on me but may have made the reed valves for my air suction system die as it now has that more distint 'disel engine idling' sound!

I shall try and upload the sound for you to hear later on
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-18-2006, 09:08 PM
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A gas motor should never sound like a diesel.

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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-19-2006, 07:01 AM Thread Starter
 
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Yes not a good thing at all but i do suspect it is the air suction reed valves as you can only here it from the inlet hoses...I'll tear into it another time

Seems to be running ok..for now at least!
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