Adjusting valve lash? - TwoWheelForum: Motorcycle and Sportbike forums
 
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 12-21-2006, 07:49 PM Thread Starter
 
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Adjusting valve lash?

Right! I'm back from the dead, yet again! college can be hell! Anywho i decided its time for checking valve lash due to the horrid loud tapping sound. Now i do know that my valves maybe slightly burnt and need cleaning and also the valve seats need to be re-done.

My question is should i check valve lash and then clean out the valves. Or do it the other way round since it may change clearences a small amount!

Also i noticed that there are som coolant pipes attached to the camshaft caps which hook up to the rest of the sys. at first it was puzzling. But then i realized that the camshafts run on plain bearings! go figure. i'll post up a pic later to explain that! Thanks!
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 12-21-2006, 10:37 PM
 
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I would check the lash before taking the head off. Checking the valve lash is easy. Setting number one piston at TDC on the compression stroke and checking the valve lash is fun and interesting. Using your manual, and moving the crankshaft, you have to record the valve lash for all 16 valves.

The hard part comes if any of the valves are too loose or too tight. The cams have to come out and the shims under the buckets of the noted valves have to be swapped for smaller or larger shims. Then the cams have to be reinstalled, and checked that they are in time. Great fun. My CBR uses threaded adjusters instead of shims, but they are just harder to get to.
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 12-21-2006, 10:56 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by No Worries View Post
I would check the lash before taking the head off. Checking the valve lash is easy. Setting number one piston at TDC on the compression stroke and checking the valve lash is fun and interesting. Using your manual, and moving the crankshaft, you have to record the valve lash for all 16 valves.

The hard part comes if any of the valves are too loose or too tight. The cams have to come out and the shims under the buckets of the noted valves have to be swapped for smaller or larger shims. Then the cams have to be reinstalled, and checked that they are in time. Great fun. My CBR uses threaded adjusters instead of shims, but they are just harder to get to.

You know your stuff, sir.



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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 12-22-2006, 08:34 AM
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Never worked on overhead cam engines. Sounds a lot more difficult then the old school. Maybe a little cleaner though. No hot oil splashing while you crank on the valves.
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 12-22-2006, 09:14 AM
 
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Reps to you sir...
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 12-22-2006, 02:54 PM Thread Starter
 
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Well in most sevice manual they say if you find one that is out of specs. change them all. well i'll see what'll happen! thanks for the help!

I find that shim over bucket motors are easiest to work with and screw and locknut motors are the harders since when you torque down the locknuts to specs it throws off the valve lash by miles!!!
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