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post #1 of 38 (permalink) Old 11-02-2004, 06:16 PM Thread Starter
 
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Brake bleeding

I found this in one of the other threads. I feel a challenge coming on!!


Originally Posted by stevnmd
18 months ago you changed the fluid, eh? You really should bleed the brakes at LEAST once per year. Might as well change the fluid while you're at it. If you've never torn down your calipers, DO SO! If you want some help, let me know. I can post a write-up on how to do it without having to rebuild the entire caliper... After you do it once, it's SUPER easy...



I SAY PROVE IT!!! Write a tutorial and include some pics so we know what you are talking about. Write something a ham-fisted clueless knuckle-buster like me can follow to do a simple procedure like this. I would love to do it myself, but I am afraid I'd F<(% it up and then have the pay the stealer, uh dealer, extra because I "helped". I am not afraid to admit I can't do some of these routine things...so how about some of you vets teach us how to do it???
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post #2 of 38 (permalink) Old 11-02-2004, 06:19 PM
 
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Stuck this in Tech n Tuning for ya, so its easier reference!
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post #3 of 38 (permalink) Old 11-02-2004, 06:39 PM
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Great topic. Ever since I bled my brakes and put in new fluid, they've felt like crap. I'd like to know how to do it correctly.
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post #4 of 38 (permalink) Old 11-02-2004, 06:42 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShanMan14
Great topic. Ever since I bled my brakes and put in new fluid, they've felt like crap. I'd like to know how to do it correctly.
With a powerbleeder.
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post #5 of 38 (permalink) Old 11-02-2004, 06:54 PM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mojo
With a powerbleeder.
What's that...a hemophiliac on speed??
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post #6 of 38 (permalink) Old 11-02-2004, 07:34 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShanMan14
Great topic. Ever since I bled my brakes and put in new fluid, they've felt like crap. I'd like to know how to do it correctly.
are you talking about the last time we discussed ur brakes? they are still acting up since then?
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post #7 of 38 (permalink) Old 11-02-2004, 07:44 PM
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Bleed Bleed Bleed Bietch!!


O, I mean bleed those brakes!




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post #8 of 38 (permalink) Old 11-02-2004, 08:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Need4Speed750
are you talking about the last time we discussed ur brakes? they are still acting up since then?

I haven't done anything with them... yet. They still work.

Doesn't a powerbleeder have a crank you turn to suction out the fluid?
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post #9 of 38 (permalink) Old 11-02-2004, 09:15 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShanMan14
I haven't done anything with them... yet. They still work.

Doesn't a powerbleeder have a crank you turn to suction out the fluid?

Yep.
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post #10 of 38 (permalink) Old 11-02-2004, 09:41 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShanMan14
I haven't done anything with them... yet. They still work.

Doesn't a powerbleeder have a crank you turn to suction out the fluid?
The one I have uses air. Hook it up to the compressor and off you go. It goes through fluid at an alarming rate, though. It does work very quickly and efficiently on the plus side.
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post #11 of 38 (permalink) Old 11-02-2004, 09:46 PM
 
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I bled my brakes, and replaced my fluid in the spring on my yamaha..just pumped it out via the brake lever, cleaned out the resevoir, replaced the fluid, and it works great ever since... whats the problem!!
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post #12 of 38 (permalink) Old 11-02-2004, 09:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bumblebee
What's that...a hemophiliac on speed??

Rarely is the question stupid, but sometimes the answer is you need to run everything you read online through your own personal BS meter to determine if it makes sense to you.
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post #13 of 38 (permalink) Old 11-02-2004, 11:53 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShanMan14
Great topic. Ever since I bled my brakes and put in new fluid, they've felt like crap. I'd like to know how to do it correctly.
If the pedal is hard, not spongy, you can assume the bleeding was done right. If there is no fork oil, chain lube, or other contaminants on the rotors and pads, there could be a problem with the calipers. My Honda uses guide pins that the pads move on. My pins had worn grooves that hung up the pads. Got new pins from the dealer at a reasonable price and the brakes worked fine.
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post #14 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-22-2005, 08:41 AM
 
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again, im going through old threads,,,,,

little tip i found out over the years on brake bleeding...sometimes you can bleed the crap out them and they still feel spoungy (sp.), the little trick is to close the bottom bleeder, pump the lever and hold it and break the banjo bolt (one at the brake line) that is on the resevoir at the lever and bleed it there..(use a towell or something to catch the brake fluid)....sometimes no matter what u do you just cant clear the air bubbles that are right at the lever..this works in a lot of cases...
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post #15 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-22-2005, 08:46 AM
 
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Midi Vac is the best and it is like 20 bucks with out the gauge
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post #16 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-22-2005, 10:08 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GsxrJack
again, im going through old threads,,,,,

little tip i found out over the years on brake bleeding...sometimes you can bleed the crap out them and they still feel spoungy (sp.), the little trick is to close the bottom bleeder, pump the lever and hold it and break the banjo bolt (one at the brake line) that is on the resevoir at the lever and bleed it there..(use a towell or something to catch the brake fluid)....sometimes no matter what u do you just cant clear the air bubbles that are right at the lever..this works in a lot of cases...
To add to your tip about bleeding the line at the master reservoir, take a screw driver and tap each line starting at the caliper. Work your way up to the reservoir and then bleed. This will get the last trapped bubble or two of air out of the system. Mity-Vacs work well but your trying to pull the air bubble down through the line when it naturally wants to float to the top of the system. Plus, you end up using more fluid to get the system fully bled.
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post #17 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-22-2005, 10:48 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nine29
To add to your tip about bleeding the line at the master reservoir, take a screw driver and tap each line starting at the caliper. Work your way up to the reservoir and then bleed. This will get the last trapped bubble or two of air out of the system. Mity-Vacs work well but your trying to pull the air bubble down through the line when it naturally wants to float to the top of the system. Plus, you end up using more fluid to get the system fully bled.
You can reuse the the fluid AND you you build up enough pressure before you open the bleeder, you get those air bubbles with not problems.
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post #18 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-22-2005, 11:04 AM
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Just watch out with the brake fluid.


IT WILL DESTROY YOUR PLASTICS IF YOU GET IT ON THERE AND DON'T CLEAN IT UP RIGHT AWAY!!

Also, good tip there Jack...I'll keep that in mind!!




-Chris
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post #19 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-22-2005, 11:15 AM
 
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It doesnt happen instantly only if it is left on the paint for a few mins. My mastercylinder sprung a leak @ the track and covered my bike. I sprayed with a hose and it was fine. Just get it off fast.
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post #20 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-22-2005, 11:40 AM
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That is what I said... clean it off right away!




-Chris
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