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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-20-2007, 12:58 PM Thread Starter
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Chain Facts

Per Quality Cycle

Found this interesting bit of information that I’ll just add a few bits of and link the rest.

Quote:
Fact 1: Did you know that any “Quality” motorcycle chain with a Tensile Strength of between 8,000lbs to 9,500lbs is more than strong enough to withstand the power output of almost any size bike made today!

Fact 2: Did you know that most Chain Manufacturers “Guidelines” are really set by the number of different models they offer & not what size the maximum engine size that chain should be used on!!! Examples: The Regina 530 ORS2 O-Ring Chain is recommended for bikes up to 750cc.....yet it only has a Tensile Strength of only 7,640lbs. The Tsubaki 530 OMEGA O-Ring chain is recommended for bikes up to 1,000cc, even though it has less than 7,800lbs Tensile Strength!

But the RK KS Series Performance Heavy-Duty Chain is only recommended for bikes up to 400cc, yet it has a Tensile Strength of 8,000 Lbs!!!!!!
The Truth is that Tensile Strength is Tensile Strength, just like 2 ft. is 2 ft.....the higher the number the stronger the chain. So why do some chain companies recommend a O-ring chain for bigger bikes & a “non-sealed” chain that is stronger is only recommended for bikes upto 400cc??? Because the OEM Suppliers of chains (RK & D.I.D) Make more profit selling a O-ring Chain & most bikes 500cc & up now come with a O-ring chain..The Truth is it’s just about making more Profit! & that’s the only reason!!!!!! The OEM Chain companies will always try to get you to buy a more expensive chain than what you REALLY Need!!

Listen....we use to sell other “Premium” chains like EK & Tsubaki and occasionally still do...but even if they have a few more features or a slighty higher Tensile Strength......they still don’t seem to last as long as a D.I.D.or RF Chains! Reason why is that no other Motorcycle Chains are “machined” to as close of tolerances as these Chains! That’s why all of the major Motorcycle Manufacturers use them for their Drive Chains, Cam Chains & even make their “Wheel Assemblies” as well as other Parts!


Fact 3: Did you know that most bikes that are over 5 Years old regardless of its size that has a O.E.M supplied O-Ring Chain (made by D.I.D or RK) has less than 8,300lbs Tensile Strength, but you can’t find this chain listed because these chains are no longer made in a “Retail Boxed” version.....but are only supplied to the Motorcycle Companies to be sold as Genuine HONDA or KAWASAKI Parts Only!!! However. in most cases you’ll never see the Tensile Strength on the OEM supplied models, because the suppliers (RK & D.I.D) don’t want you to know what it is!
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-20-2007, 12:59 PM Thread Starter
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Per:Quality Cycle

Quote:
Fact 4: One of the biggest “Myths” when it comes to Motorcycle Chains is that a O-Ring chain will last longer than a “non-sealed (not O-ring) Chain! A non-sealed chain with the same Tensile Strength or slightly higher.....will last as long or longer in most cases if lubed about every 2 weeks of riding with a Premium Chain Lube!!!(but not X-Ring Type Chains) The “standard type” O-ring design allows dust, grit, & dirt to get between the inner & outer Side Plates. Sooo, in most cases the lubrication in the chain is gone after around 4,000 miles! Sure you can lube the chain as often as a “non-O-ring” chain & it will last longer, but that defeats the purpose & extra money of buying a O-ring Chain! In most cases, the O.E.M suppliers (RK & D.I.D) don’t even make a O-ring chain in a “Retail Box” anymore except to supply the Motorcycle Manufacturers to package-up as Genuine Honda, Yamaha, Kawasaki, or Suzuki parts!!!!!! Look at the picture on the left & you can see that dust, grit, & dirt can collect on the edges of the seal,,,,,which can eventually wear out the seal because of it’s design! Only one small “Sealing Surface”!

How to Correctly Lube your Chain!

Most people (probably 7 out of 10) don’t know how to correctly “lube” their Motorcycle Chain! A chain wears at it’s “Pins”, that holds the inner & outer Side Plates together. It’s “Pin” wear that causes your chain to stretch! (wear) Most people just spray the chain lube on the back of the sprocket down the middle of the chain. This does your chain very little good!!!! The chain “rollers need very little lubrication. The only correct way to get the “lube” to the Pins....is to spray just above the chain at the bottom of the sprocket & let “gravity” do the work. The lube will flow between the side plates to get to the shaft of the Pins. Then do the other side the same way. The difference between a improperly lubed chain & one that is “lubed” correctly can mean up to a 35% increase in the life of your chain! Remember that a properly lubed non O-Ring Chain with the same Tensile Strength.....will last just as long if “lubed” correctly! Even a X-Ring chain seals have to be lubed occasionally to keep them from drying out & help flush grit off the chain!!!!




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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-20-2007, 01:06 PM
 
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Thanks for the info. Been lubin my chain wrong.
repped
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-20-2007, 01:25 PM
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I used RK chains on my dirbikes. I wont ever use any other brand of chain.
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-20-2007, 01:46 PM
 
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I am very new to bikes, I wanted to know what lube to use for my Kawi, and how often should I lube it, as I have no idea.
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-20-2007, 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by AJCrader View Post
I am very new to bikes, I wanted to know what lube to use for my Kawi, and how often should I lube it, as I have no idea.
I use Maxima Chain Wax and I lube it every week(~200 miles).
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-20-2007, 02:00 PM
 
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I better get to movin on that then, should I clean at all first, and if so how should I clean it? I love these forums, everyone is so helpful.
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-20-2007, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by AJCrader View Post
I better get to movin on that then, should I clean at all first, and if so how should I clean it? I love these forums, everyone is so helpful.
I just run a small wire brush over the entire chain and sproket.
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-20-2007, 02:13 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rider View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by AJCrader View Post
I better get to movin on that then, should I clean at all first, and if so how should I clean it? I love these forums, everyone is so helpful.
I just run a small wire brush over the entire chain and sproket.
There are many chain cleaners around... but a lot of people I know just use WD-40 and a Towel to clean the chain... I don't believe a brush is really necessary on street bikes, because it doesn't get that dirty to require a brush.
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-20-2007, 02:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Low View Post
There are many chain cleaners around... but a lot of people I know just use WD-40 and a Towel to clean the chain... I don't believe a brush is really necessary on street bikes, because it doesn't get that dirty to require a brush.
You still get a small build up on the sprocket if you dont.
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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-20-2007, 02:54 PM
 
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kerosene and a rag...

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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-20-2007, 03:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saverok View Post
kerosene and a rag...
along with a old toothbrush.

You have to be carefull with a wire brush. We are talking about little rubber o-rings. A wire brush could F em up.

Good info and it goes to show I'm not stupid for suggesting DiD. Which you can freely look up tensile strength on their website. HERE Which show as all well into the 8,000 lb +++ for tensile strength!!




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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-20-2007, 05:12 PM
 
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I use dupont teflon lube (from lowes) it cleans and goes on clear. Works wonders. Lube every couple of weeks.



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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-20-2007, 11:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marko138 View Post
I use dupont teflon lube (from lowes) it cleans and goes on clear. Works wonders. Lube every couple of weeks.
I read some reviews on that stuff and it looks money... I think that will be my next lubricant purchase... As far as cleaning goes I have some nylon brushes that work well, though I have thought about those cool looking things that clamp over the chain and clean all sides at once...
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post #15 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-21-2007, 12:59 AM
 
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Originally Posted by onesickpsycho View Post
I read some reviews on that stuff and it looks money... I think that will be my next lubricant purchase... As far as cleaning goes I have some nylon brushes that work well, though I have thought about those cool looking things that clamp over the chain and clean all sides at once...
That stuff is cash money holmes. It's awesome.



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post #16 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-22-2007, 02:54 PM
 
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Thanks guys!!!
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post #17 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-22-2007, 03:36 PM
 
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very good info, there are probably lots of people here that lube their chains wrong, me i thoung you have to do it the wrong way myself. nice work, rep'd.
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post #18 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-23-2007, 08:43 AM
 
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Don't use WD40, will EFF up your chain. always lube with the chain warm (i.e, take it out for a lil spin). Then use warm soapy water with a nylon brush, kerosene with a rag is good after that, then some decent chain wax, let it sit for 20 mins ,then go for it.
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post #19 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-23-2007, 10:36 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spence View Post
Don't use WD40, will EFF up your chain.
Why do you say that? I've used WD-40 for some time now and a chain Wax that I can't remember the name of right now...
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post #20 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-23-2007, 02:11 PM
 
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Originally Posted by Low View Post
Why do you say that? I've used WD-40 for some time now and a chain Wax that I can't remember the name of right now...
WD 40 will not harm your chain. I use all the time. Just dont let it sit on the chain.



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