Milky white oil glass?? eh??? - TwoWheelForum: Motorcycle and Sportbike forums
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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-30-2007, 01:36 PM Thread Starter
 
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Milky white oil glass?? eh???

Ok...this problem has my head spinning, here's the deal.

As soon as you prob read the words "milky white" and "oil" in the same sentence your first thoughts were most likely coolant/water in the oil...head gasket bad.

Now here comes the odd bit! i checked my coolant through the radiator cap. full to the brim. i then checked the resevoir tank level and it hasn't changed at all...i've ridden it now for approx an hour total in the past two days. i took the oil filler cap off and what seemed like steam? comming out for a few seconds. underside of cap had milky residue.

I stuck a clean metal rod in though the filler hole...oil seemed like oil to me! nothing out of the odinary so what should i actually be looking for!


One note though which maybe why...the engine has been sitting in my garage for about 4 months with no oil...you know what floridian weather is like....you think its just the stupid amount of condentation inside the block?
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-30-2007, 03:28 PM
 
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Check your oil level. if it is higher than full then something has been added. If not then clean the cap, ride around a bit and recheck everything then. Let me know what you find.
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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-30-2007, 03:33 PM Thread Starter
 
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seems about the same, oil level is half way. i'll top it to the top but i have the el cheapo car oil 10w-40

strange though when the bike sits for not even 30 mins the milky residue seems to harden?

i thought with a blown head gasket the performance would suffer? its runs great!
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-30-2007, 03:40 PM
 
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Milky white doesn't always mean coolent...it just means the presents of water in the oil....could be coolant, could be condensation, either from a headgasket problem, or, from a bad breather in rainy weather, or, from infrequent riding/and/or short hop riding that doesn't get the oil hot enough to boil off the condensate. most bikes don't get their oil hot enough in cooler/cold weather unless you go on an extended ride.

Ride the bike, get it hot, and change the oil/filter....if it reoccurs in a short time frame, you may have a coolent leak problem. (doesn't take much...couple of ounces).
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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-30-2007, 03:46 PM
 
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Originally Posted by KillerR33d View Post
One note though which maybe why...the engine has been sitting in my garage for about 4 months with no oil...you know what floridian weather is like....you think its just the stupid amount of condentation inside the block?

STORED WITH NO OIL!!!!!!! WHy would you do that? Seals dry out, surfaces begin to pit, no protection from atmospheric moisture. It may only be a lot of condensation, but don't be surprised if you have a bad seal somewhere, either.
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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-30-2007, 05:40 PM
 
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Originally Posted by oldetymebiker View Post
Milky white doesn't always mean coolent...it just means the presents of water in the oil....could be coolant, could be condensation, either from a headgasket problem, or, from a bad breather in rainy weather, or, from infrequent riding/and/or short hop riding that doesn't get the oil hot enough to boil off the condensate. most bikes don't get their oil hot enough in cooler/cold weather unless you go on an extended ride.

Ride the bike, get it hot, and change the oil/filter....if it reoccurs in a short time frame, you may have a coolent leak problem. (doesn't take much...couple of ounces).
White smoke from the exhaust is usually the sign of a coolant leak into the combustion chamber. But coolant can also leak into the crankcase. Moisture in a humid atmosphere will also condense in a hot engine. If you go on short trips the engine won't get hot enough to burn it out.

Plus, all engines get blowby in the crankcase. Water, acids and fuel are part of the high heat and combustion process, and they will stay in the oil unless the engine is hot enough to burn some off. Gas could also be leaking into the crankcase from a leaky petcock or float valve. Change the oil.
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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-30-2007, 05:46 PM
 
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You should use Seafoam or some kind of stablizer next time you store your bike or let it sit for a while.
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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-30-2007, 06:21 PM Thread Starter
 
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all great ideas!!

Reason why no oil in the sump was i pulled engine and did some work on it!

the filter/oil was new so...should i just replace with oil or do the filter as well

Just drain the oil and it seems to be fine, should i be looking for a film of water or something on top because this is all new to me!
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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-31-2007, 05:43 PM
 
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Filters don't cost much. replace it. other then that you are probably fine. just keep an eye on it.
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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-02-2007, 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by oldetymebiker View Post
Ride the bike, get it hot, and change the oil/filter....

This is very important and is actually how you should always do a oil change.

Great ideas and knowledge flowing thru this thread!




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post #11 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-02-2007, 12:02 PM Thread Starter
 
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Update!

Rode bike for 30 miles and that burnt off most of the water in the oil, changed oil and filter, rode another 30 miles and burnt off the rest!

still have the valve adjustment issues...annoying ticking sound! will let bike sit for the night and check 2moro!

Will let you guys know what happens!
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post #12 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-02-2007, 04:11 PM
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You changed the oil when the bike was hot right???




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post #13 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-02-2007, 06:10 PM Thread Starter
 
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yes i did change the oil while it was hot as for my valves all are in specs

Been reading up and i think the zx6 E models may just have a noisy valve train? odd but ok?
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post #14 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-02-2007, 11:21 PM
 
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This is very important and is actually how you should always do a oil change.

Great ideas and knowledge flowing thru this thread!
Explain. I always do it this way...but explain why.



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post #15 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-03-2007, 06:02 PM
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Explain. I always do it this way...but explain why.
When the oil is hot after a ride, all of the contaminants are floating around in the oil, so when it's drained, the contaminants drain out too.
If you change it after the bike has sat for awhile, the contaminants will have settled, so they will not drain out as much.
Basically, you get a cleaner engine, and do more good if you change it hot.

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they make the one i posted in a strap on version
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post #16 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-03-2007, 10:58 PM
 
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When the oil is hot after a ride, all of the contaminants are floating around in the oil, so when it's drained, the contaminants drain out too.
If you change it after the bike has sat for awhile, the contaminants will have settled, so they will not drain out as much.
Basically, you get a cleaner engine, and do more good if you change it hot.




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post #17 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-04-2007, 04:00 PM
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Yeah what he said! A old school car mechanic told me that a long time ago.




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post #18 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-04-2007, 04:32 PM
 
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in plain english, oil gets hot and circulates, the crap is floating in the oil and not sitting on the bottom of the oil pan. when the oil comes out, most of the junk comes out with the oil.

simple enough, and it only makes sense.
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post #19 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-04-2007, 05:40 PM
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Yeah pretty much!




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post #20 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-11-2007, 01:50 PM
 
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on your noisy valves......

there are a good number of ninja forums, ask around there and youll get a answer quick i am sure... ALSO my friedns has a F4i with barely 10K on it, his valves hve been ticky since break in but the clearances are good... my GUESS is that yeah, its a loud motor like the F4i and like many vtwins
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