Top end rattle/tapping as revs falling off - TwoWheelForum: Motorcycle and Sportbike forums
 
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-24-2007, 03:35 PM Thread Starter
 
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Top end rattle/tapping as revs falling off

recently bought a 98 Gsxr 600, test ride was Ok, got it back home and felt the engine struggle as revs were falling around 3000rpm, heard a rattle or tapping kind of noise coming from top end, seems to run ok otherwise, doesn't seem to do it as its warming up, anyone got any ideas what it could be & how Costly ??

Regards Wes

Had a basic service recently, does this when warm only not while warming up.

Last edited by wes.; 04-26-2007 at 04:01 PM.
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-25-2007, 08:30 AM
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recently bought a 98 Gsxr 600, test ride was Ok, got it back home and felt the engine struggle as revs were falling around 3000rpm, heard a rattle or tapping kind of noise coming from top end, seems to run ok otherwise, doesn't seem to do it as its warming up, anyone got any ideas what it could be & how Costly ??

Regards Wes
Could just need a valve adjustment.
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-25-2007, 09:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wes. View Post
recently bought a 98 Gsxr 600, test ride was Ok, got it back home and felt the engine struggle as revs were falling around 3000rpm, heard a rattle or tapping kind of noise coming from top end, seems to run ok otherwise, doesn't seem to do it as its warming up, anyone got any ideas what it could be & how Costly ??

Regards Wes
How fast were the revs falling off? Maybe the valve springs are tired, the valve seats are worn, or the cam has been changed out?

That's just off the top of my head- I don't have too much experience with motorcycle engines yet.
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-25-2007, 05:29 PM
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Does it do it all the time regardless if you just started it or if its warm?

How many miles? What other maintance has been done to it?




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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-25-2007, 05:43 PM
 
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get the valves adjusted first. could also be a worn cam chain too.
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-04-2007, 10:04 PM
 
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valves would get more noisy as the revs went up, it definately wouldn't stop making noise after 3k rpms.

if it sounds like ball bearings then it's your cam chain tensioner. chances are if it's old the cam chain is stretched causing the cam chain tensioner not to put enough pressure on it. a lot of times that willgo away when you give it gas because the chain will become tight from the motor spinning
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-04-2007, 10:20 PM
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Binder- I think your rep just shot up.
I never would have thought of cam chains- never had a timing gear/chain wear loose in a V8.
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-04-2007, 10:29 PM
 
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Binder- I think your rep just shot up.
I never would have thought of cam chains- never had a timing gear/chain wear loose in a V8.
thanks


i work on these things all day long. being a stuntrider myself i see a lot of CCT's going bad. for some reason the high revs on the bikes we use wears them out, along with the constant abuse of the cam chains.

f4i's are the worst for CCT's.

it's a simple fix too
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-05-2007, 02:10 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thumbs up

Thanks lads. had Cam Chain Tensioner out gave it a good clean, bit of WD40, seemed to be working OK so I stuck it back in. fingers crossed i havent heard the rattle since, will be taking it out for a good run sunday so We'll See.

Is the chain likely to be worn now ? would you recommending a Replacement ?
How much would that be for a 98 Gsxr 600 srad
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-05-2007, 10:27 PM
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The best suggestions when dealing with CCTs is to get a manual one.




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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-05-2007, 10:40 PM
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The best suggestions when dealing with CCTs is to get a manual one.
GMan, can you give us a brief rundown of the manual vs automatic CCT... Why one is better, adjusting, etc.
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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-05-2007, 11:45 PM
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Basically the auto ccts are notorious for giving out or getting weak and causing drive train noise. The manual ones are just more trouble free. There is a few threads around here somewhere on installing them. I remember a older member that went thru 3 or 4 auto ccts before going to the manual one. It had outlast the auto ones so much that he figured he'd be at 7 or 8 by now. But he's no longer a member here....

What more do you want to know? How they work or somin?




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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-06-2007, 12:00 AM
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Basically the auto ccts are notorious for giving out or getting weak and causing drive train noise. The manual ones are just more trouble free. There is a few threads around here somewhere on installing them. I remember a older member that went thru 3 or 4 auto ccts before going to the manual one. It had outlast the auto ones so much that he figured he'd be at 7 or 8 by now. But he's no longer a member here....

What more do you want to know? How they work or somin?
When I think manual vs. auto, I think a need to adjust it (manual)... It sounds to me like the opposite... Why is that the case?
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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-06-2007, 12:04 AM
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Yes you have to adjust it but were only talking maybe ever oil change. Not that bad.




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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-06-2007, 02:41 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thumbs up

Took it out for a run today, couple of hundred miles, no sign of rattle at all. Think its sorted, but it sounds like it could be an ongoing problem, may consider a manual CCT.

Thanks again to all for help & advice

Wes
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post #16 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-10-2007, 11:21 PM
 
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ya, manuals are nice but you have to be careful that you aren't compensating for a loose chain. If someone returns to the shop after a CCT replacement without a reasonable ammount of time passing, the cam chain will get replaced. the auto can only extend so far, if the cam chain is stretched beyond that no matter how many times you change that CCT, it'll still be loose.

cam chains aren't really that bad. they are around 20-30$ for cbr600's. i would assume a simliar cost for a gixxer. check ronayers.com or bikebandit.com

they aren't hard to change if you have all the tools and know bikes. if not then you need a shop to do it. you have to take the cams out to get the chain out then you have to re-time it when you put the new one bike it and torque the cam caps back down properly.
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post #17 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-11-2007, 02:41 PM
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That is true.. but for example in the Hondas... its a known problem with the CCTs. The manual will fix it 90% of the time way before the chain gets stretched too far.




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post #18 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-11-2007, 06:06 PM
 
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That is true.. but for example in the Hondas... its a known problem with the CCTs. The manual will fix it 90% of the time way before the chain gets stretched too far.
ya, for some reason it's a problem with the f4i's. no other bikes i've come across seem to have the same problem.
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post #19 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-12-2007, 04:55 PM
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The F4i's are horrible with it...




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