Piece of plastic Schedule 80 plastic plumbing pipe of same diameter as inside diameter of fork lower= fork seal driver. Or, you can use an appropriate sized large socket and a rubber/plastic mallet. I use a dentists hooked probe ($.99 at Ace hardware) to pull the old seals out. Flush the fork tubes out w kerosene and leave them to drain out overnight to insure you are not leaving old debris in the bottom of the fork tubes. ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS replace bushings at the same time.
For a cheap alternative to Racetech springs, cut pairs of 1", 1 1/2", 2" and 2 1/2" schedule 80 (the thick stuff) water pipe of the same diameter as the springs. Starting with the shortest, add the 1" spacer on top of the spring to add preload (you can try the various lengths to get the best performance). Once you've determined the best amount of preload, cut and deburr the same diameter and length in steel pipe and replace the plastic spacers with the permanent steel ones.
Or...drill and tap your fork caps for Shrader (tire) valves, and add, (via hand pump) 5-10 psi in each fork leg (never use a compressor; the volume of air required is so low you'll blow those new seals)
Once you've got the spring rate sorted, you can experiment with various weight of oils, 5 wt, 10 wt, or a 50/50 blend