First get the bike up off the ground if possible...
The lets work on some of the little stuff.
Lube your cables.
Spray the clutch cable at the top by pulling the lever in and spraying in the cable lining
Spray some lube down the top of the cover to help slide it up and out of the way.
This is what you'll see
Losen the lock nut and spin the clutch cable loose
Spray some lube in the hole. I do this many times to allow it to work down the cable.
Also lube your throttle cables. Only one spot to get lube down the cable... at the grip. Loosen the lock nuts and spin the cables free. You'll have to do one at a time cause it will tighten the other. I do this about 4 times just like the clutch.
Brakes are a vital piece to the whole puzzle. So not only will we inspect the pad wear on the front and rear. We will ensure proper use by observing the caliper functioning up close. This may require somebody else to press the appriapriate lever. Then we will remove the resevior covers and make sure both are full.
Get your air filter set right.
Removing your teardrop cover to gain access to the filter.
This would be a used/dirty K&N. I will simply clean it and re-oil it. But your paper filter may look similar and needs to be replaced.
By now you should have your throttle cables put back together and adjusted the freeplay. Now lets check to make sure it is working properly and that your jets are spraying correctly.
I usually have to clean this off a bit. But with the filter off it will give you a good chance to check the jets and lube the throttle cables that are hooked to the side of the carb.
Plus ensure that your throttle is closing and opening freely. It is good to check it with your bars turned both ways to ensure no binding.
Onward to the oils...
Check your oil level and condition of your engine oil by pulling the dipstick. Ensure when always checking oil level that the bike is level and off the kickstand.
Lets first drain the engine oil. Pull the oil plug from the bottom of the oil tank.
Left/kick stand side of the bike next to the rear end of the rear shocks.
Inspect the plug and the metal fragments on the end of the plug. The plug is magnetic to catch shavings from your motor oil.
While that is draining. Pull, check and clean your tappet screen. It is located on the right/exhaust side of the bike. Above the oil pump and in front of the drive belt pulley.
Remove with some needle nose pliers but use caution. It should come out with ease.
I clean it with brake clean and let it air dry for a min. Enjoy a beverage!
Re-install the tappet screen. This takes a bit of finese. First try it with just the nut cover so you get the feel for how it goes in. Now try it with the screen and the spring. I used a socket and extension to aid putting it in. Use one hand to keep pressure down and the other to spin.
If the oil is done draining from oil tank. Put the plug back in. I like to use a dab of high temp rtv silicone on the plug to ensure a good seal. And torque it to specs (10ft lbs) Then refill the oil with 3 qrts of oil of choice.
Now time to remove the engine oil filter.
Remove crank sensor. Clean and inspect.
This allows for easier removal of the oil filter.
Beware. You may want something to catch this oil coming out soon. Or alot of rags for clean up or both.
OPTIONAL PHASE for those with a Scavenger Complete Oil System
Spin on scavenger unit.
Start bike at idle and pump out the rest of the old oil that is still in your system. I removed about a extra quart of black black dirty oil.
See what you're wouldn't be getting out.
This is at about a 1/2 a quart into the evacuation of the old oil
Now onto what we all have to do...
Remove your new oil filter from the package, apply a little bit of new oil to the new oil filter o-ring and spin onto the bike.
Check oil level in oil tank top off as nessicary. Start bike again to wet down the system. Allow to set.
Time to have another cold beverage.
Check oil level again and top off as nessicary. Remember its easier to keep adding a little versus trying to remove if you add too much.