Reached the Boiling point today - TwoWheelForum: Motorcycle and Sportbike forums
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-18-2007, 09:49 PM Thread Starter
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Reached the Boiling point today

Well I was stuck in wonderful boston rush hour traffic today in approx approx mid to high 60* degree day.... So it was rather cool.... anyways i am stuck in traffic the bike is idling around 223* fans kicking on everything normal. All of the sudden the guy behind me is honking and freaking out then he pulls next to me and notifies me that my bike is puking out antifreeze.... Why would it over flow like this in seemingly normal opperating temps.... where should i start looking at to trouble shoot this.

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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-18-2007, 09:52 PM
 
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check the cap first, bad seal = boils early, other than that sounds like bad thermostat
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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-18-2007, 09:59 PM Thread Starter
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up until this afternoon the bike was running very cool... 160 ish this morning and then all of the sudden it does this... When you say cap you mean the radiator cap or overflow cap..... because the tube that goes from the overflow to the ground was kind of kinked up and in an odd location could that cause problems... I didnt know bikes had thermos I thoughtcars only had them for the heating systems... where are they usually located.

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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-18-2007, 10:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MidwesterneRR View Post
check the cap first, bad seal = boils early, other than that sounds like bad thermostat
but you maybe right about the car thing Butif I am thinking right it should have a thermostat so it gets to optimum operating temp and then regulate itself to stay at the temp.
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-18-2007, 10:03 PM
 
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the radiator cap, ive never opened up a gixxer but 600rr's definitly have thermos, its not a really tough job to change it either, fill youre bike with coolant start it and let it get warm, feel out the coolant hoses, if its the thermostat youll have one relatively cool hose.
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-18-2007, 10:38 PM
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Also consider that your coolant just needs to be replaced.

with a cold bike. You can check the thermostat by filling the coolant, remove the rad cap, start the bike, you shouldn't see any coolant movement, when the bike comes to temp... usually 140-160 degrees, the thermostat should open and then you'll get coolant flow.




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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-19-2007, 11:57 AM
 
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..... because the tube that goes from the overflow to the ground was kind of kinked up and in an odd location could that cause problems... I didnt know bikes had thermos I thoughtcars only had them for the heating systems... where are they usually located.
The cooling system should be a closed system. By overflow, I assume you mean the hose from near the radiator cap is going to ground. It should go to an expansion tank, just like on a car. If there is no expansion tank, you need to get one pronto or find where it's hidden on your bike. I think your bike is very low on antifreeze. Plus, I would check to see where the antifreeze came from. Overflow? Loose hose clip?
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-19-2007, 12:12 PM Thread Starter
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The cooling system should be a closed system. By overflow, I assume you mean the hose from near the radiator cap is going to ground. It should go to an expansion tank, just like on a car. If there is no expansion tank, you need to get one pronto or find where it's hidden on your bike. I think your bike is very low on antifreeze. Plus, I would check to see where the antifreeze came from. Overflow? Loose hose clip?
there is a hose that goes from what you call an expansion tank (I call it an overflow tank) to the ground just in case it does boil over it does it down the tube and it gets directed to the ground.... Thats where it came from. I just want to know what would cause it to do that. so i know where to start... I am having the system completely flushed and refilled as we speak so hopefully that fixes it.

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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-19-2007, 12:42 PM
 
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Didn't you say in another post that your bike was staying under 160F riding in cold weather? I'd get someone to check out the t-stat. Its a cheap part, but can do some major damage if faulty.
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-19-2007, 12:46 PM
 
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One time i got my Sv back from service and when it heated up i would notice some radiator was leaking out come to find out as i looked closer hade to re tighten my radiator hose.
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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-19-2007, 12:53 PM
 
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was your coolant low? if your coolant was low afterward low coolant is a possibility, im leanin towards thermostat tho.
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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-19-2007, 12:54 PM
 
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mine no his sounds like thermostat to me also. was just giving my experience.
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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-19-2007, 02:39 PM
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Yeah I'm betting you need a new t-stat and then run some engine ice!




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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-19-2007, 02:45 PM
 
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or trade it in for newer model.
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post #15 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-19-2007, 02:49 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 6doublefive321 View Post
Didn't you say in another post that your bike was staying under 160F riding in cold weather? I'd get someone to check out the t-stat. Its a cheap part, but can do some major damage if faulty.
yeah it was until yesterday when i got stuck in traffic... its in the shop right now though so hopefully it will be done.

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post #16 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-19-2007, 04:18 PM Thread Starter
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Just got it back... I guess the radiator cap had debris around the seal so it wasnt sealing properly... So a good cleaning and flush and fill and its good to go.

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post #17 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-19-2007, 05:21 PM
 
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Originally Posted by MidwesterneRR View Post
check the cap first, bad seal = boils early, other than that sounds like bad thermostat
did i say that? i think i said that . . .

Glad youre back on 2 wheels, i took mine out for the first time in a month today, never have knee surgery
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post #18 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-19-2007, 05:52 PM
 
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or trade it in for newer model.
Or trade it for two older models.
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post #19 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-19-2007, 06:28 PM
 
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damn that sucks
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post #20 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-19-2007, 07:24 PM
 
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did i say that? i think i said that . . .
pat yerself on the back..

for those that wonder why faulty pressure caps cause boil over:
increasing atmospheric pressure will raise the boiling point of water (preventing water from turning into vapors in the engine). coolant also increases the water's boiling point and also prevents freeze up in winter. plain water transfers heat the best, but suffers from the above mentioned qualities (freeze up, vaporizing, and also corrosion).
also, the cap will allow pressures over 15 psi to escape through the reservoir thereby avoiding excess pressure that can damage the head gasket.

ads for redline water wetter states that it prevents corrosion and also prevents hot spot vaporization. but no freeze protection and relies on pressure cap for raised boiling point.

engine ice states that it has better heat transfer properties than plain water and adds freeze protection, corrosion inhibitors, and raised boiling point.

i've tried them all. the thermostat is the great equalizer. doesn't matter which coolant product you use, the thermostat will regulate them for the proper engine temp. radiator size is also a factor. fuel mixture and plug temp as well. coolant is only part of the system.

when trouble shooting the cooling system, it's best to understand how the cooling system works. one of the easiest and most common problem is the radiator cap (anything mechanical will break down at some time). next would be the t-stat. next would be the water pump. failure to replace the coolant will cause damage to the radiator and eventually the gaskets.

thought i'd share this to newbies

-a|ex
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