idle shutoff... - TwoWheelForum: Motorcycle and Sportbike forums
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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-25-2007, 01:52 PM Thread Starter
Knee Dragger
 
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idle shutoff...

so i noticed today when i was riding home from work and would come to a stop my bike would idle around 1k then it would start idling rough bouncing from 200-1k RPM then shut off it turns right back on and id say 7 out of 10 times i stop it did this....so i tried turning the idle control up to around 1.5k and it stayed fine for a few stops then it would just start doing it again a few stops later...then when i was stopped i went to rev the engine up good and it sputter a little then revved up ....i dont have any clue what this could be??? im thinking something with the fuel, other than that im clueless...help me out guys
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-25-2007, 01:53 PM
 
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Originally Posted by ls1ssws6 View Post
so i noticed today when i was riding home from work and would come to a stop my bike would idle around 1k then it would start idling rough bouncing from 200-1k RPM then shut off it turns right back on and id say 7 out of 10 times i stop it did this....so i tried turning the idle control up to around 1.5k and it stayed fine for a few stops then it would just start doing it again a few stops later...then when i was stopped i went to rev the engine up good and it sputter a little then revved up ....i dont have any clue what this could be??? im thinking something with the fuel, other than that im clueless...help me out guys
You said you tried the idle adjustment screw... that's the first place I would go.

Bike is carbed or FI?
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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-25-2007, 01:57 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ceo012384 View Post
You said you tried the idle adjustment screw... that's the first place I would go.

Bike is carbed or FI?
yea i tried that but it seems like after a few stops it falls back down to the idle it wants to be at, not what i set it at....its a carb bike
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-25-2007, 02:10 PM
 
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Originally Posted by ls1ssws6 View Post
yea i tried that but it seems like after a few stops it falls back down to the idle it wants to be at, not what i set it at....its a carb bike
Maybe the bike is running a little rich? That could cause low rpm stalls due to choking.
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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-25-2007, 02:47 PM Thread Starter
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Maybe the bike is running a little rich? That could cause low rpm stalls due to choking.
well how to i get it unrich haha ??? i finished hookin up m scorpio alarm on friday, rode sunday amd monday no problems, but today it started actin up
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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-25-2007, 03:35 PM
 
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well how to i get it unrich haha ??? i finished hookin up m scorpio alarm on friday, rode sunday amd monday no problems, but today it started actin up
Look up for your specific bike what the on-carb adjustments are. Also look up 'jetting' and determine if you may need to rejet.

GM hop in here, in case I am wrong. I'm not great with carbs.
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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-25-2007, 05:33 PM
 
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Originally Posted by ls1ssws6 View Post
so i noticed today when i was riding home from work and would come to a stop my bike would idle around 1k then it would start idling rough bouncing from 200-1k RPM then shut off it turns right back on and id say 7 out of 10 times i stop it did this....so i tried turning the idle control up to around 1.5k and it stayed fine for a few stops then it would just start doing it again a few stops later...then when i was stopped i went to rev the engine up good and it sputter a little then revved up ....i dont have any clue what this could be??? im thinking something with the fuel, other than that im clueless...help me out guys
sounds like maybe a fouled plug? can you tell when a bike runs on 3 cylinders? theres a noticable change in sound, but that would do what youre sayin, could be a fuel prob too though
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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-25-2007, 06:24 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ceo012384 View Post
Look up for your specific bike what the on-carb adjustments are. Also look up 'jetting' and determine if you may need to rejet.

GM hop in here, in case I am wrong. I'm not great with carbs.
i dont have my clymers manual here so ill have to check it tomorrow when i go to my gf's where the manual is....

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Originally Posted by MidwesterneRR View Post
sounds like maybe a fouled plug? can you tell when a bike runs on 3 cylinders? theres a noticable change in sound, but that would do what youre sayin, could be a fuel prob too though
i didnt really notice a sound difference until i pull the clutch to stop and the rpms drop low and shut off.....are plugs hard to change on a bike?

i took the tank off a little while putting the alarm on, could one of the fuel lines have come off a little and be causing this? i mean it is just weird that it just started today....

also will it mess the bike up if i ride with it like this or is it best to figure it out first?? like i said on the highway and while riding it seems fine (i was riding it pretty fast on the highway then got off and thats when it started actin up if me riding fast has anything to do with it???)
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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-25-2007, 08:07 PM Thread Starter
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so i just went out to see if it continued cause its bothering me...turn the bike on let her warm up and ride around and its completely fine only thing i can think of is something with the temperature if that makes any sense.....earlier when it was actin up the temp i noticed was around 200-220ish and when i just took it out it didnt get up past 190 so maybe ill have to see what happens tomorrow when i get up to higher temps
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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-25-2007, 09:18 PM
 
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there are 2 screws for idle, cold and normal temp (for EFI bikes). make sure the engine is warmed up before adjusted the normal running idle screw.

things to consider: tune-up. also, use premium detergent fuel a few times or injector cleaner.

-a|ex
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post #11 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-25-2007, 09:38 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Back _Marker View Post
there are 2 screws for idle, cold and normal temp (for EFI bikes). make sure the engine is warmed up before adjusted the normal running idle screw.

things to consider: tune-up. also, use premium detergent fuel a few times or injector cleaner.

-a|ex
i have a carb bike though not FI....when i adjusted the idle knob it was warmed up fine.....and i only know the one knob on my bike, is there another or only 1 for carb bikes?

what is premium detergent fuel? where can i get that at?
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post #12 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-25-2007, 10:02 PM
 
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Originally Posted by ls1ssws6 View Post
i have a carb bike though not FI....when i adjusted the idle knob it was warmed up fine.....and i only know the one knob on my bike, is there another or only 1 for carb bikes?

what is premium detergent fuel? where can i get that at?
for carbs, there are a few things to service. synchronizing requires special mercury gauges. carb cleaning requires removal, fuel filter also needs to be changed.

there is no cold idle adjustment, the choke knob takes care of that.

premium detergent gas is the top grade from the major gas companies. it's advertised as detergent additives at the pump. or you can go to any autosupply store and use gas additives or fuel system cleaners. i use the injector cleaner a few times.

there is an idle circuit in the carbs (idle pilot jet) that can get dirty. but it's best just to remove the carbs, open up the floats and spray carb cleaner in it (or dump it in a can of carb cleaner). you can be adventurous and get a jet kit for it (get more midrange power).

-a|ex
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post #13 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-25-2007, 10:08 PM
 
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synchronizing requires special mercury gauges.
They don't really use mercury anymore. Too health hazardous (although I work with it in my graduate research).

The carbtune is a good and reasonably priced carb synch tool that also works for FI bikes' throttle bodies. I bought one recently.

go to www.carbtune.com
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post #14 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-25-2007, 10:19 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Back _Marker View Post
for carbs, there are a few things to service. synchronizing requires special mercury gauges. carb cleaning requires removal, fuel filter also needs to be changed.

there is no cold idle adjustment, the choke knob takes care of that.

premium detergent gas is the top grade from the major gas companies. it's advertised as detergent additives at the pump. or you can go to any autosupply store and use gas additives or fuel system cleaners. i use the injector cleaner a few times.

there is an idle circuit in the carbs (idle pilot jet) that can get dirty. but it's best just to remove the carbs, open up the floats and spray carb cleaner in it (or dump it in a can of carb cleaner). you can be adventurous and get a jet kit for it (get more midrange power).

-a|ex
i use the top quality gas from sunoco usually...the carb thing sounds kinda complicated...is it expensive to have it done at the dealer or a bike shop?

Quote:
Originally Posted by ceo012384 View Post
They don't really use mercury anymore. Too health hazardous (although I work with it in my graduate research).

The carbtune is a good and reasonably priced carb synch tool that also works for FI bikes' throttle bodies. I bought one recently.

go to www.carbtune.com
can this be done easily?
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post #15 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-25-2007, 10:31 PM
 
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can this be done easily?
Yes synching carbs is pretty easy. All you have to do is hook up the four hoses from the tool to the four ports on the carbs and then use the adjuster screws to get the tool to read all four cylinders at the same level.
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post #16 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-26-2007, 05:02 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ceo012384 View Post
Yes synching carbs is pretty easy. All you have to do is hook up the four hoses from the tool to the four ports on the carbs and then use the adjuster screws to get the tool to read all four cylinders at the same level.
so get the tool from carbtune.com and it will give me instructions on how to do it with the product?
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post #17 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-26-2007, 09:20 AM
 
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so get the tool from carbtune.com and it will give me instructions on how to do it with the product?
Yeah... I'm not sure if carb synchronization is your problem. Or if it is, it may not be your only problem. However, this tool is worth purchasing anyways.... build up an array of tools so you never have to go to the stealership for service.
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post #18 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-26-2007, 03:04 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah... I'm not sure if carb synchronization is your problem. Or if it is, it may not be your only problem. However, this tool is worth purchasing anyways.... build up an array of tools so you never have to go to the stealership for service.
well it isnt the idle...it rode fine on the way into work, i didnt get above 175 degrees, then just now on the way home i came to a stop and it stalled around 205+ degrees the fan is coming on so its not that, i really cant think of what it is....

im about to take it to a shop to have them look at it cause i dont want to mess with something and that not be it....its bothering me now
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post #19 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-26-2007, 03:06 PM
 
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well it isnt the idle...it rode fine on the way into work, i didnt get above 175 degrees, then just now on the way home i came to a stop and it stalled around 205+ degrees the fan is coming on so its not that, i really cant think of what it is....

im about to take it to a shop to have them look at it cause i dont want to mess with something and that not be it....its bothering me now
Well if it's temperature dependent I would bet it's the thermostat... try that!
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post #20 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-26-2007, 04:04 PM Thread Starter
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Well if it's temperature dependent I would bet it's the thermostat... try that!
how do i check the thermostat to make sure everything is ok.....
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