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post #1 of 109 (permalink) Old 09-30-2007, 12:26 AM Thread Starter
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Question fork seals?

ok, the leaking has started, how hard is it to change, i was thinking about putting a heavier oil, if it is possble, but i am picking up a manuel for the rc and just tryingto get a feel for what i am getting myself into



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post #2 of 109 (permalink) Old 09-30-2007, 12:30 AM
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ok, the leaking has started, how hard is it to change, i was thinking about putting a heavier oil, if it is possble, but i am picking up a manuel for the rc and just tryingto get a feel for what i am getting myself into
Call your friendly neighborhood Gas Man...
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post #3 of 109 (permalink) Old 09-30-2007, 12:31 AM
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post #4 of 109 (permalink) Old 09-30-2007, 12:32 AM
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just duct tape it... that always works


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they make the one i posted in a strap on version
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post #5 of 109 (permalink) Old 09-30-2007, 03:43 PM
 
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being that you probably have inverted forks, its gonna be a PITA to do the seals. I struggled on my upside down forks on the EX I had.
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post #6 of 109 (permalink) Old 09-30-2007, 03:45 PM
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being that you probably have inverted forks, its gonna be a PITA to do the seals. I struggled on my upside down forks on the EX I had.
ya take the fork tubes off?
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post #7 of 109 (permalink) Old 09-30-2007, 04:21 PM
 
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Fork tubes off, diassemble the forks, remove old seals,use driver to put in new seals without damaging them, reassemble forks, measure new oil and fill............might as well put a spring and gold valve kit in while yer at it......
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post #8 of 109 (permalink) Old 09-30-2007, 06:08 PM Thread Starter
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Fork tubes off, diassemble the forks, remove old seals,use driver to put in new seals without damaging them, reassemble forks, measure new oil and fill............might as well put a spring and gold valve kit in while yer at it......
how much will these run?and where do you reccomend getting them from?



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post #9 of 109 (permalink) Old 09-30-2007, 06:10 PM Thread Starter
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so as long as nothing is diffrent from a ordinary fork, i should be ok, my dad just changed the seals in the nighthawk, and as long as nothing is too diffrent it shouldnt be too dfficult



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post #10 of 109 (permalink) Old 09-30-2007, 07:53 PM
 
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The Nighthawk was probably the old-fashioned damper rod fork, like on my old Suzuki. Your RC is probably a piston rod, like on my CBR. Either one, you still have to disassemble the forks to get the fork tube apart from the slider, so you can get to the fork seal and snap ring.

Do each fork separately so you don't mix parts. Plus you can disassemble the second one when you're not sure how the first one goes together. I usually copy the page out of my manual and note the direction of each seal, each bushing, and each spring, because you won't remember tomorrow and it always goes to the next day or more if you have to order parts.
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post #11 of 109 (permalink) Old 09-30-2007, 08:04 PM
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how much will these run?and where do you reccomend getting them from?
www.racetech.com
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post #12 of 109 (permalink) Old 09-30-2007, 09:10 PM
 
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You should change fork oil and seals about once a season, or if you track it a lot, a couple times.

If you want to be able to do this all yourself, you will need to make a small investment in some equipment.

If your forks are inverted, you will need a fork compressor. Racetech sells a good one for about 130 bucks. Get a seal driver, also from racetech.

Might as well change your bushings while you're in there since I'm sure the teflon has worn off if you're leaking oil.
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post #13 of 109 (permalink) Old 09-30-2007, 09:57 PM
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You should change fork oil and seals about once a season, or if you track it a lot, a couple times.

If you want to be able to do this all yourself, you will need to make a small investment in some equipment.

If your forks are inverted, you will need a fork compressor. Racetech sells a good one for about 130 bucks. Get a seal driver, also from racetech.

Might as well change your bushings while you're in there since I'm sure the teflon has worn off if you're leaking oil.
RTFM... The manufacturer states otherwise on my machine... and on yours as well.
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post #14 of 109 (permalink) Old 09-30-2007, 10:24 PM
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take his books away
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post #15 of 109 (permalink) Old 09-30-2007, 10:41 PM
 
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RTFM... The manufacturer states otherwise on my machine... and on yours as well.
'The f&*king manual' has been read. Care to elaborate?
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take his books away
Info wasn't from a book.
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post #16 of 109 (permalink) Old 09-30-2007, 10:46 PM
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'The f&*king manual' has been read. Care to elaborate?

Info wasn't from a book.
thats a good thing not that reading isnt
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post #17 of 109 (permalink) Old 09-30-2007, 10:48 PM
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'The f&*king manual' has been read. Care to elaborate?
The manual doesn't say it needs to be done that frequently.
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post #18 of 109 (permalink) Old 09-30-2007, 10:53 PM
 
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dirt is the main cause of fork seal leakage... keep em clean and avoid em leaks. also, hitting trees at 100 mph will cause the fork seals to leak.

i've never replaced inverted forks yet, but i'm thinking about replacing the fork oil in my current bike (9k miles). possibly get it revalved or replace with ohlins.

-a|ex
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post #19 of 109 (permalink) Old 09-30-2007, 10:55 PM
 
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The manual doesn't say it needs to be done that frequently.
The manual service intervals are extremely conservative. Also, in general, suspension is the single least-well upkept component on most motorcycles.

Here's what those 'in the know' will suggest:

Road Bikes Service interval:
Fork & Shock fluid-once each year
Fork & Shock rebuild- each winter

Track/Race Bikes Service Interval:
Fork & Shock fluids-Twice each season
Fork & Shock rebuild- each winter
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post #20 of 109 (permalink) Old 09-30-2007, 10:56 PM
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dirt is the main cause of fork seal leakage... keep em clean and avoid em leaks. also, hitting trees at 100 mph will cause the fork seals to leak.

i've never replaced inverted forks yet, but i'm thinking about replacing the fork oil in my current bike (9k miles). possibly get it revalved or replace with ohlins.

-a|ex
You thinkin' about getting into more aggressive riding again?
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