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post #1 of 47 (permalink) Old 12-26-2007, 01:18 PM Thread Starter
 
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brake pads

Yo, bout to change my brake pads this week while i have time off, anybody know where i can find some useful info on where to start?
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post #2 of 47 (permalink) Old 12-26-2007, 01:41 PM
 
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Double H's for the front. I like the DP (Dunlopad) brand. Don't get HH for the rear. Use GG for the rear pads.
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post #3 of 47 (permalink) Old 12-26-2007, 02:06 PM Thread Starter
 
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no no no, i've allready got my brake pads. i just dont know the first thing about replacing them.

before i go crazy with my tool box i try to get at least an idea of what i need to do.
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post #4 of 47 (permalink) Old 12-26-2007, 02:36 PM
 
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remove the to allen key bolts holding them on and replace make sure they go on correctly lol and same for back
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post #5 of 47 (permalink) Old 12-26-2007, 02:41 PM
 
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Find you a downloadable service manual. I'm sure you can prob find one on the CBR forums. That's what I do
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post #6 of 47 (permalink) Old 12-26-2007, 02:42 PM
 
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go here and click how to change brake pads http://www.soflasportbikes.com/forum...l-how-tos.html goodluck
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post #7 of 47 (permalink) Old 12-26-2007, 02:46 PM Thread Starter
 
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thx fellas, any more help wuld be gerate.
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post #8 of 47 (permalink) Old 12-26-2007, 03:22 PM
 
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Once you get the calipers off and the pads out, you'll have to retract the pistons in order to allow you to mount the new pads around the rotors. It's easy to do. Just use the old pads and some channel locks and squeeze til the piston(s) is back on each side. This'll send your brake fluid up the lines and back into the master cylinder. Make sure you have a rag or something underneath so no fluid gets anywhere.
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post #9 of 47 (permalink) Old 12-26-2007, 03:25 PM Thread Starter
 
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so i'll end up replacing the brake fluid? need to make a stop at the mc shop then.
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post #10 of 47 (permalink) Old 12-26-2007, 03:40 PM
 
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no just need sum to top off the fluid if low after you do the brakes but if you use the old brake pads to compress the pistons u shouldnt need to take off the cap on the master cylinder cause it should just go back into the reservoir
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post #11 of 47 (permalink) Old 12-26-2007, 04:24 PM Thread Starter
 
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understood, but if i'm low as is i may need to top it off after i push the pistons in. I'm thinking i shouldnt mix 2 kinds of brake fluid; would it even matter?
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post #12 of 47 (permalink) Old 12-26-2007, 04:37 PM
 
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well am not to sure how motorcycle brake fluid is calssified but on cars Dot 4 is a different base than DOt 5 and should NEVER and i repeat NEVER mixed together. Brands i mean a bike is a high performance machine i cant see a company who produces brake fluid going cheap on a motorcycle but of course it can happen just do your research sum brake fluid is obviously better. but watch you dont wanna go and get race brake fluid cause if your not going to use it the way they designed it your going to waste your money and have to replace the fluid alot earlier. just ifnd out wat OEM is cant go wrong with OEM
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post #13 of 47 (permalink) Old 12-26-2007, 07:45 PM
 
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Pad change is pretty easy. It's not necessary to change fluid...but you should do it regularly. If it hasn't been done in a while then it's probly a good idea to do so.


The biggest thing is to make sure you DO NOT squeeze the brake lever when the pads are out. Bad for you seals around your pistons.



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post #14 of 47 (permalink) Old 12-27-2007, 06:52 AM
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You won't need to add fluid... if anything you might be have to remove some... you're pushing in the brake cylinders in the caliper and therefor pushing the fluid back into the resv. hence needing less cause the caliper isn't out as far.

Its so easy to do its stupid... but remember the tips as stated above

remove the allen bolts holding the caliper on and slide off rotor.

leave old pads in and use a C clamp to push in the cylinders to expand the opening between pads.. being the new ones are thicker.

then pop off the old pad and replace with the new one

slide back over rotor and bolt back up. But use loctite on the bolts (blue/removeable). Its best to torque to specs but if you don't have that stuff, just get them real tight. Don't jump on them but put a good arm into them.

Pump the brakes to seat the calipers.. test ride at slow speeds. Then its time to heat cycle the pads... 20-0 ; 30-0 ; 40-0 ; 50-0 with some non-braking time between....




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post #15 of 47 (permalink) Old 12-27-2007, 11:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gas Man View Post
You won't need to add fluid... if anything you might be have to remove some... you're pushing in the brake cylinders in the caliper and therefor pushing the fluid back into the resv. hence needing less cause the caliper isn't out as far.

Its so easy to do its stupid... but remember the tips as stated above

remove the allen bolts holding the caliper on and slide off rotor.

leave old pads in and use a C clamp to push in the cylinders to expand the opening between pads.. being the new ones are thicker.

then pop off the old pad and replace with the new one

slide back over rotor and bolt back up. But use loctite on the bolts (blue/removeable). Its best to torque to specs but if you don't have that stuff, just get them real tight. Don't jump on them but put a good arm into them.

Pump the brakes to seat the calipers.. test ride at slow speeds. Then its time to heat cycle the pads... 20-0 ; 30-0 ; 40-0 ; 50-0 with some non-braking time between....
Something I've heard about cager disk brakes- the piston may have some light rust/pitting on it. Use fine sand paper to clean it off while the piston is pushed partway out. Then use brake cleaner and a rag to remove all dust. Helps to keep the rubber boot from grabbing and tearing.

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post #16 of 47 (permalink) Old 12-27-2007, 02:14 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gas Man View Post
You won't need to add fluid... if anything you might be have to remove some... you're pushing in the brake cylinders in the caliper and therefor pushing the fluid back into the resv. hence needing less cause the caliper isn't out as far.

Its so easy to do its stupid... but remember the tips as stated above

remove the allen bolts holding the caliper on and slide off rotor.

leave old pads in and use a C clamp to push in the cylinders to expand the opening between pads.. being the new ones are thicker.

then pop off the old pad and replace with the new one

slide back over rotor and bolt back up. But use loctite on the bolts (blue/removeable). Its best to torque to specs but if you don't have that stuff, just get them real tight. Don't jump on them but put a good arm into them.

Pump the brakes to seat the calipers.. test ride at slow speeds. Then its time to heat cycle the pads... 20-0 ; 30-0 ; 40-0 ; 50-0 with some non-braking time between....
Hey gasman am just curious inless he added fluid to begin with you shouldnt need less fluid... the correct amount is in their prior to your brakes going low if your pads are needed to be changed the small amount of space that was taking up due to the more pressure need to push the pads towards the rotor is minimal and i wouldnt worry about takin fluid out i rarely see people having to take fluid out.. Plus with heat expanision you should watch the fluid amount to begin with when filling the master cylinder reservoir. just be careful BRAKE FLUID EATS PAINTS...you have roughly 1 minute or less to wash the brake fluid of the paint.... you have to FLUSH WITH A LOT OF WATER and when i say ALOT of mean ALOT and that wont guarantee that your paint wont fade so have a bottle of water or hose near by in case sumthing happens otherwise
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post #17 of 47 (permalink) Old 12-27-2007, 03:46 PM
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If you look at your calipers closely. You will notice you can change the pads w/o removing the calipers. Just remove the 2 pins holding the pads in place, take a large screw driver and pry the the old pad against the rotor n it will compress the piston back into the caliper. Pull old pads out and insert new pads. Repeat per caliper. Back is a lil tricky as the exhaust can be in your way.
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post #18 of 47 (permalink) Old 12-27-2007, 04:43 PM
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02..you're right... if its never been topped off after pad wear... he may not have to remove any. But I'm not there...

And yes I have heard about the sand paper/buff the cylinder thing... never had to do it, and would doubt that you would have to on a bike... but worth inspecting

That is also true many times PG... but again... not always.




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post #19 of 47 (permalink) Old 12-27-2007, 04:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gas Man View Post
02..you're right... if its never been topped off after pad wear... he may not have to remove any. But I'm not there...

And yes I have heard about the sand paper/buff the cylinder thing... never had to do it, and would doubt that you would have to on a bike... but worth inspecting

That is also true many times PG... but again... not always.
oh but with his cbr it should be unless something is stuck/extremely nasty etc.

And I dont think we have too many members here that let anything vehicle wise get 'too' nasty
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post #20 of 47 (permalink) Old 12-27-2007, 05:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gas Man View Post
02..you're right... if its never been topped off after pad wear... he may not have to remove any. But I'm not there...

And yes I have heard about the sand paper/buff the cylinder thing... never had to do it, and would doubt that you would have to on a bike... but worth inspecting

That is also true many times PG... but again... not always.
My bike gets ridden in all kinds of weather (except snow). I think taking the pads off without removing the calipers depends on the type of brake. Don't some older systems float the entire caliper on a slide?

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Quote:
Originally Posted by NONE_too_SOFT View Post
All riders take risks- what you wear usually reflects your respect for the bike and general knowledge of riding.
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