Originally Posted by f4ilapper
When cutting the spacers to size what type of edge condition should I leave, i.e just burr removal or fine sand paper beveled (sp) finish? And would the spacer go in first then the spring on top?
We cut them with a hacksaw with a metal blade, then use a pnumatic wheel with a scotchbrite bad to take off the burrs. A dremel would also work, or a red scotchbrite pad. Sandpaper will tend to tear on the burrs. You don't need to bevel or anything, it's just sitting against the spring. The spacers sit on top of the spring and under the fork cap (you'll see the stock spacer when you open your forks). Just make sure it's a 90 degree cut.
Is the spacer length intuitive, longer spacer equals higher pre-load?
Basically, yes. But since you're getting the right springs for your weight, the original assembled length should be good and allow you to get the right sag numbers.
What is the effect of heavier or or lighter fork oil? Does lighter oil equal quicker rebound and less dampening or is that backwards?
Exactly - lighter viscosity flows through the valves faster. Stock forks are notorious for having not enough rebound (not all of them, but a good many). Depending on the bike, we do different things. For exmaple ... R6 forks we usually go 20w.
If I were to feel that I'm in over my head what would re-spring cost from Speedwerks?
2 hours of labor at $45/hour ... so $90 (plus oil, which is about $8). This also includes Our setup in terms of oil and spacer length, as well as support on dialing them in for the life of the forks, be it on the phone or at the track (you will find that the faster you go, your rebound/compression setup will change - what works at X laptime no longer works at < X laptime - you have to adjust to suit your style, and what the forks are doing)
- Brian Roach