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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-26-2005, 06:52 AM Thread Starter
 
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Safety Wire

Can anyone point me to a site or tell me how to safety wire an oil drain plug?

Thanks!!!



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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-26-2005, 07:25 AM
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-26-2005, 08:59 AM
 
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step 1/ drill hole
step 2/ attach wire
repeat for others


** wear safety glasses ! you will break a few drill bits and those suckers can fly anywhere ! ***

Last edited by Als-Repsol; 07-26-2005 at 09:03 AM.
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-26-2005, 09:52 AM
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....that is for both Shan and Rep...

Twisty could definately point in a few directions...

Also here's a little article on it... from SportRider.com




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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-27-2005, 07:19 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gas Man
....that is for both Shan and Rep...

Twisty could definately point in a few directions...

Also here's a little article on it... from SportRider.com


Yup thats all there is to it, just drill it and wire it...if your drain plug is solid and not like the one in the pic its more of a pain to drill but not too bad...i do beleive they also sell drain plugs already drilled if you dont want to drill yours yourself...

Ive been safety wiring for more than 30 years on race bikes and jet engines, so it comes pretty naturally to me, but its a pretty easy thing to do...just make sure its pulling in the tighten position...
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-27-2005, 07:48 AM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks guys! If any of you read my posts in the Carlisle bike show thread you'll know why I'm trying this out...

And an update on that...oil pan threads completely stripped. The 1.50 drain plug solution was not the easy fix I was hoping for...

New oil pan here I come. Now the question is do I want to do this myself or pay the shop...



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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-27-2005, 02:35 PM
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Getting a pre-drilled one from Lockhart Phillips is the easiest... which is what is in Jack's first pic




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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-27-2005, 04:53 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marko138
Thanks guys! If any of you read my posts in the Carlisle bike show thread you'll know why I'm trying this out...

And an update on that...oil pan threads completely stripped. The 1.50 drain plug solution was not the easy fix I was hoping for...

New oil pan here I come. Now the question is do I want to do this myself or pay the shop...
Have you ever tried or thought to tap and thread a new screw in the oil pan. I have stripped out many things before and the tap set I have works great just to re-thread a hole.
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-27-2005, 05:47 PM
 
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Another important tip...keep track of where your safety wire is at all times when you are cutting it off to redo it (say if you change a tire and need to clip the wire off your axle or whatever)....those little pieces that come off can do much harm to tires, your fingers, feet, etc. Very sharp little boogers, indeed!

Laura
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-28-2005, 05:35 AM Thread Starter
 
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SV-

What do you use to re-tap? I've heard heli-coil from several people. Both Koup's and West Shore Suzuki told me that its a 50/50 shot on whether it works or not.

I'm contemplating doing it myself or having Koup's do it. My only problem is lifting the bike so I can get to it. Otherwise, it seems like an easy project.

As for paying someone...I'm being told its gonna run close the the same price either way. Labor and parts. Obviously the pan would be a little more $$, but also, a more secure fix.




Last edited by marko138; 07-28-2005 at 05:38 AM.
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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-28-2005, 05:50 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marko138
SV-

What do you use to re-tap? I've heard heli-coil from several people. Both Koup's and West Shore Suzuki told me that its a 50/50 shot on whether it works or not.

I'm contemplating doing it myself or having Koup's do it. My only problem is lifting the bike so I can get to it. Otherwise, it seems like an easy project.

As for paying someone...I'm being told its gonna run close the the same price either way. Labor and parts. Obviously the pan would be a little more $$, but also, a more secure fix.
Marko,
The re-tap set I have isn't the best in the world or anything, however it gets the job done. I can't remember where I got mine so many years ago. I would check Lowes, Home Depot, sears, or harbor freight.
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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-28-2005, 06:38 AM Thread Starter
 
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Would I still be able to use the same plug? I thought about re-tapping but going to a bigger (wider) plug would eliminate the crush washer/gasket on the plug. Maybe your SV has the samething on it?



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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-28-2005, 09:47 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marko138
Would I still be able to use the same plug? I thought about re-tapping but going to a bigger (wider) plug would eliminate the crush washer/gasket on the plug. Maybe your SV has the samething on it?
My SV also has a washer on the plug, but I have never stripped mine out...but I would say try to use the same size tap and attempt to re-thread the hole. If that doesn't work then move up one size and get a bigger bolt.
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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-28-2005, 11:05 AM
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Great suggestion SV!




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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-28-2005, 11:22 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gas Man
Great suggestion SV!
thanks, also note tap or re-thread real slow and steady and straight. You don't want to make a mess out of the existing hole.
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post #16 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-28-2005, 12:23 PM
 
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With the case already being like 1/8 inch thick a heli-coil isnt the best way to go. Your only talkin a couple threads and you have to tap up for those any way. IMO, if I were you i would go with the up one size, but first like SVup said try first to clean up the threads you have now, replace the bolt use an o-ring if need be and safty wire. If the threads are just too far gone tap it up one size. Just go slow and steady make small turns and back it out, this will bring the debrees back out of the case. do not go all the way in one shot. take your time and keep it clean.
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