I have a major bike problem. - TwoWheelForum: Motorcycle and Sportbike forums
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post #1 of 53 (permalink) Old 12-02-2005, 02:22 PM Thread Starter
 
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I have a major bike problem.

OK this is my bike

2004 ZX 6R.

Mods.
1. One tooth down in the front.
2. K&N air filter.
3. Power Commander USB III
4. Micron High Mount slip on.
5. Gear indicator.
6. Vortex rear sets.


This is whatís up. So a couple weeks ago I change the oil on my bike to full synthetic and then take the bike to the track. The bike runs great at the track (ended up shaving 15 seconds off my lap time.). So the following day I take the bike out and it is running strange to say the least. So I donít think anything of it and bring the bike home. Well a couple days later I get a call from a buddy of mine and he ask if I want to head up to the mountains. Hell ya I say (I never pass up the chance to smoke a R1 on the 636, rider skill!). So we head out and I get like a mile down the road and all of a sudden BAM, the power cuts out in mid throttle and then kicks back in real hard. It was so bad it threw me forward then whipped me back on the bike. I was so surprised I ended up turning around and taking the bike home without even letting the guy I was with know. So on the way back home I noticed that every time I got to like 9000 rpms the bike would do this. It would act like I just let off the throattle then wacked back on it. So I get home and I start checking stuff.

This is what the bike does.
1. If the bike is in neutral I can rev the bike all the way to the rev limiter.

2. If the bike is in gear and Iím riding it (doesnít matter what get Iím in) the bike will hit 9000 rpms and cut out until 7500 rpms then kick back in.

3. Now when Iím not riding it (bike is on the side stand) and the bike is in gear with the clutch held in, I can rev it to 9000 rpms and it will cut out and drop to about 2500 rpms. Then it will go back to 9000 then cutout again.

4. Now when Iím not riding it (bike is on the side stand) and the bike is in gear with the clutch held in and I roll on slowly to about 8500 rpms then whack it the bike will rev past the 9000 rpm mark and hit the rev limiter.

5. Now if the bike sits over night I have to ride it for a couple miles before it will start doing this again.

So this is what I have done so fare.
1. Pulled everything off (seat, tank, and air box) and checked the wires. Nothing is burnt no lose connections nothing is unplugged.

2. Disconnected the power commander and set the bike back to stock.

3. Replaced the ECU, which cost me $800(Kawasaki told me to, they are paying me back).

4. Changed the fuel out (I wish it was just bad gas).

Now this is the bad partÖÖÖ Iím in the military stationed in Germany. The bike has been in the shop for almost a month now and the guy canít figure it out. He is a good mechanic but I think this is one of those problems that has never happened before.

This is what the shop has done.
1. Checked the side stand switch. Thatís fine.

2. Checked the neutral switch. Thatís fine.

3. Checked to make sure the fuel tank is venting right. All good there. Checked the power commander. Itís ok.

Does anyone have any idea what is wrong with my bike? And please donít give me the stupid ďItís a KawasakiĒ crap. If you canít help then either donít post or just say you canít help.

Any info would be great!
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post #2 of 53 (permalink) Old 12-02-2005, 02:24 PM Thread Starter
 
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Oh ya I forgot to say this, It is to cold to take the bike out so the shop is going to run it on the dyno.
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post #3 of 53 (permalink) Old 12-02-2005, 02:51 PM
 
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How many miles on the bike?
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post #4 of 53 (permalink) Old 12-02-2005, 02:58 PM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pippi
How many miles on the bike?
No more then 8000.
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post #5 of 53 (permalink) Old 12-02-2005, 04:40 PM
 
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Your PCIII is bad. Samething happened to my TL. Un hook it and run with out. See if it still happens.
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post #6 of 53 (permalink) Old 12-02-2005, 05:49 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks guys. Was your bike messen up at the same RPM range? The shop unhooked the PCIII and said it ran fine. So they check to see if it was a sofware problem or a total failure of the PCIII. I got the bike back and it ran fine for like 45 minutes then it started to act up again. The PCIII was on at that time. They said I needed the 3.1.1 update.

Last edited by Marsolais; 12-02-2005 at 05:54 PM.
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post #7 of 53 (permalink) Old 12-02-2005, 05:56 PM
 
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Actualy,I think you need to look more specificaly...does it cut out at a specific RPM or a specific throttle position-two different symptoms-two different components to shoot for...I'm thinkin a bad TPS...you say you swapped out your power commander and your stock comp. and still happens,w/key on,eng.off disconnect the TPS and read the D/C v. count w/a meter,should be smooth rise or decr.! If you can get a meter w/a scope feature that would be even better to see the drop...you did check for loose battery connections,low batt. voltage,bad grounds,any work done recently,wash/water issues...
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post #8 of 53 (permalink) Old 12-02-2005, 06:00 PM
 
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I would be sure of their diag. before you toss any computers for a new one...
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post #9 of 53 (permalink) Old 12-02-2005, 06:04 PM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JEKYLL
Actualy,I think you need to look more specificaly...does it cut out at a specific RPM or a specific throttle position-two different symptoms-two different components to shoot for...I'm thinkin a bad TPS...you say you swapped out your power commander and your stock comp. and still happens,w/key on,eng.off disconnect the TPS and read the D/C v. count w/a meter,should be smooth rise or decr.! If you can get a meter w/a scope feature that would be even better to see the drop...you did check for loose battery connections,low batt. voltage,bad grounds,any work done recently,wash/water issues...
Ya checked all the wires, they are good. I have a volt meter but I don't know how to work it. I will do some research this weekend. And I pretty sure it is at the same RPM because if I'm in first gear it happens at 9K rpm's and if I'm in fifth it happens at 9k rpm's (which is very ugly might I add). So I don't know if 9K rpm's is the same throttle position in every gear.
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post #10 of 53 (permalink) Old 12-03-2005, 04:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twisty
Your PCIII is bad. Samething happened to my TL. Un hook it and run with out. See if it still happens.
That's the first thing I thought. Run it completely without the PCIII and do all those tests. See if it does it at all anywhere.. if not its just the PCIII. Now you have to get a better program on it or a completely new one if its bad. Maybe you can ship it back to PCIII and have them check it out....




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post #11 of 53 (permalink) Old 12-03-2005, 11:42 PM
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I agree, sounds like the PCIII is bad, have you tried riding with it completely disconnected? Also, have you checked battery voltage and charging output? And finally, try removing the gear position indicator, it could be causing some kind of oddball interference.

I'll be out of town for the next week, I'll check in if I can.

Larry

Rarely is the question stupid, but sometimes the answer is you need to run everything you read online through your own personal BS meter to determine if it makes sense to you.
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post #12 of 53 (permalink) Old 12-03-2005, 11:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larryg
I agree, sounds like the PCIII is bad, have you tried riding with it completely disconnected? Also, have you checked battery voltage and charging output? And finally, try removing the gear position indicator, it could be causing some kind of oddball interference.

I'll be out of town for the next week, I'll check in if I can.

Larry
Disconnect the PCIII . If it still does it. Disconnect the gear indicator. One of the two must be the culprit.

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post #13 of 53 (permalink) Old 12-04-2005, 12:54 AM
 
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I'm pretty old-school, but this is what I'd do. I'd wanna know if the ignition or fuel is cutting out at 9,000 RPM. First, I would get that rear wheel off the ground onto a stand. Then I would hook up my old timing light to number one cylinder. Then I would rev up the engine while checking the timing. I would see if the ignition is cutting out or retarding. Then I would do the same with number two cylinder (assuming 1&4 and 2&3 cylinders run off the same coil). If it checks OK, I would check whatever controls the fuel at high RPM on your fuel injection.
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post #14 of 53 (permalink) Old 12-04-2005, 03:27 AM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks guys, keep this stuff coming. I'm taking everything you guys are telling me to the shop seeing I can't do this stuff myself. The guy is being cool about it and not charging me for the time it takes to diag the problem. He is only charging me for the time he has to take the bike out for the test rides.
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post #15 of 53 (permalink) Old 12-04-2005, 09:13 PM
 
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I remember reading that some Kawi's had problems with spark plug wires at the boot. Lift the gas tank and run the engine in the dark. Any visable sparking indicates leakage in the plug wires and should be replaced. Has the fuel filter been replaced and fuel pump pressure checked?
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post #16 of 53 (permalink) Old 12-05-2005, 12:40 AM
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That is a awesome and very simple idea!!!


Mars... listen to NW... he's a wise and knowledgeable guy!




-Chris
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Was: 2002 Kaw ZX-9R
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post #17 of 53 (permalink) Old 12-05-2005, 06:26 PM Thread Starter
 
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I go to the shop tomarrow. I hope I have good news. Fingers crossed.
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post #18 of 53 (permalink) Old 12-06-2005, 10:44 AM
 
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I bet yours will be running right before mine. The shop can't figure out anything w/ mine either.
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post #19 of 53 (permalink) Old 12-06-2005, 02:35 PM Thread Starter
 
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Mines been in the shop for about four months!
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post #20 of 53 (permalink) Old 12-06-2005, 02:43 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marsolais
Mines been in the shop for about four months!

Thats what happens when you buy green....
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