What type of oil??? - TwoWheelForum: Motorcycle and Sportbike forums
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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-31-2005, 01:55 AM Thread Starter
 
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Question What type of oil???

I'm sure this has already been posted, but i couldnt find it anywhere. What kind of oil does everybody use for everyday riding? I know some oils are designed more for the track, but what is the best for a mixture of riding through the town and in the twisties?
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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-31-2005, 12:09 PM
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That is a question for the ages!

I would run Amsoil Full synthetic.




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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-31-2005, 01:39 PM
 
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I've always used Castrol oil in my old two-strokes, and their GTX oil in all my other vehicles.
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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-31-2005, 06:53 PM
 
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Silkolene...best in the biz....
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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-31-2005, 06:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twisty
Silkolene...best in the biz....

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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-31-2005, 06:58 PM
 
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I switched from Mobil1 synthetic to Motul 300v 10w-40. Seems to get the job done just fine
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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-11-2006, 12:19 PM
 
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i was thinking of switching to Mobil 1 10w-40 full synthetic at my second oil change.....

Ive run mobil 1 on EVERY vehicle ive owned....

twisty....where can I find silkolene....and can you explain how its better than the rest??? thanks
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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-11-2006, 04:06 PM
 
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I rent Pennz 10w40... It isn't in there long enough to say I own it...
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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-11-2006, 04:58 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by No Worries
I've always used Castrol oil in my old two-strokes, and their GTX oil in all my other vehicles.
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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-15-2006, 05:53 PM
 
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back in 1990, i used valvoline synthetic on the racetrack. then experimented with valvoline semi synthetic for the street. engine tear down for the track didn't show any abnormal wear. engine tear down for street didn't show any abnormal wear either. oil changed about every 1500-2000 street miles (hard riding). only noticeable difference is clutch. it has a certain feel that is undescribeable. I bead blast my clutch plates during each oil change.

-a|ex
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post #11 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-15-2006, 07:10 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Back _Marker
back in 1990, i used valvoline synthetic on the racetrack. then experimented with valvoline semi synthetic for the street. engine tear down for the track didn't show any abnormal wear. engine tear down for street didn't show any abnormal wear either. oil changed about every 1500-2000 street miles (hard riding). only noticeable difference is clutch. it has a certain feel that is undescribeable. I bead blast my clutch plates during each oil change.

-a|ex
So basically as I have said before in many other oil threads on this forum....it just doesn't matter. From what Back_Marker just explained there is no abnormal wear. I have bought what ever oil I find on sale...usually Castrol , however I have never seen any abnormal wear on any of my engines....especially my 94 firebird with 241k miles...that thing is a tank and just won't die. No smoke, or black soot comes out anywhere.
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post #12 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-16-2006, 01:51 AM
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Just make sure you get a oil that is designed to work with a (most bikes have) wet clutch. Some oils will cause it to slip.

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post #13 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-16-2006, 03:36 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twisty
Silkolene...best in the biz....
Synthetic??
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post #14 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-16-2006, 06:30 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeeps84
Just make sure you get a oil that is designed to work with a (most bikes have) wet clutch. Some oils will cause it to slip.
This isn't necessarily 100% true. I've read that it doesn't directly cause slippage...it actually gives you insight to a problem that was already there, just not as noticable. This was in a Cycle World or Sport Rider article from the summer.

Anyway...as SV said. It doesn't really matter. (as per this same article). They tested just about every oil out there, from motorcycle specific to your regular car oil. Generic ***** to the most expensive synthetic. The difference is in the additives. Some help the bike, some might not help it.

I would say buy a decent oil, the best you can afford, and change it often. That is key...CHANGE OIL REGULARLY...according to your owners manual or sooner. I change every 1500 miles. But then again, I have an oil cooled bike.





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post #15 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-16-2006, 11:42 AM
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I remember that article or one similar. Interesting read.
You still will never see me using a non motorcycle oil unless it has all the necessary additives and all I can find. All those funky letters on the bottl (SF, SG, SH) are the key. Check the owners manual for these requirements and make sure you get what you need.

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post #16 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-16-2006, 11:52 AM
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This is not where I read the article but, I'm sure its the same one. For those seriously interested in knowing. Click here

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post #17 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-16-2006, 11:58 AM
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foot notes for GM

Quote:
Price of Motor Oil

So how do you make an intelligent choice? Will $1.00 a quart automotive oil work okay or do you need to pay $4 to $12 a quart for "motorcycle" oil? You have to answer that question yourself, but here are a few facts to help you make the best decision for your situation.

The owner's manual of your motorcycle probably says something very similar to the following:


Use only high detergent, premium quality motor oil certified to meet API Service Classification SF or SG (shown on container). The use of additives is unnecessary and will only increase operating expenses. Do not use oils with graphite or molybdenum additives as they may adversely affect clutch operation." That's pretty clear. But what do you do since automotive oils now say on the container "meets SL Service?" That's easy! By consensus of the API and the manufacturers, the current SL classification meet all requirements of SF, SG, SH, and SJ plus all earlier API gasoline categories. The current SL actually offers some additional benefits over the older classifications. So, if the motorcycle requirement says "SG", be confident that "SL" indeed meets that requirement.

It is commonly mis-stated that "SJ and SL oils have friction modifiers which will cause wet clutch slippage." In reality, all oils have friction modifiers, that's how they work. ZDDP itself is a friction modifier. The real issue is to avoid getting the friction so low, with very thin oils containing extra amounts of friction modifiers, that clutches will slip under normal use. Stay away from energy conserving oils and you should be fine, if your clutch is in good working order.

Synthetic or Conventional

What about synthetic vs. semi-synthetic vs. "dino" oils? All motor oils have several special additives formulated into the oil to protect from corrosion and wear, plus detergents to keep combustion products in the oil. For normal (non-extreme) use, "dino" oils protect as well as the synthetic oils. However, if you plan to race, run at extremely high temperatures, or plan to extend oil-change intervals, or simply want the best, then a synthetic or semi-synthetic may be your best choice.

Frequency Asked Questions

What is a reasonable oil-change interval?

Most manuals recommend not to exceed 8,000 miles after break-in. But short-trip riding is considered severe service and the most common oil change interval is 3,000 to 4,000 miles. However, a long trip is the easiest service for the oil and going 6,000 to 8,000 miles between changes while on a cross-country ride is routine. Also, the use of synthetic oils can easily double the oil-change interval.


Will changing the oil even more frequently, like every 1,000 miles, prolong the life of the engine?

Not very likely, because even at 3,000 to 4,000 miles, the oil and additives are not degraded very much. Changing more often just wastes money.


What about the claims that motorcycle-specific oils contain "special polymers which are resistant to breakdown caused by motorcycle transmissions?

Oils usually require the addition of polymers, called VI improvers, to create a multi-viscosity oil, like 10W-40. Whether it is a motorcycle oil or an automotive oil, all polymers are subject to some degradation in the transmission. Full synthetic oils tend to have less polymer than conventional oils and therefore degrade less.


Why are motorcycle oils so much more expensive than automotive oils?


Cost of doing business is higher per quart of motorcycle oil. Large oil companies make so much more product that their profit margin per quart does not have to be so high. That's why the newer motorcycle oils being marketed by some oil companies are only marginally more expensive than their automotive counterparts.


What about the claims by specialty motorcycle oil manufacturers, that their oil is better?

That's a good one. Next time you hear that line, simply ask, "What evidence do you have?" I've never seen any. If you do get any, please let me know! I don't believe that there is any.

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post #18 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-16-2006, 10:44 PM
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Um.... words n stuff!!




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post #19 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-16-2006, 11:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gas Man
Um.... words n stuff!!
I even cut the article in less than 1/2 with the foot notes.

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post #20 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-17-2006, 05:25 AM
 
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That looks like the one I read or very similar. It's def. a lengthy read.



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