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post #1 of 34 (permalink) Old 03-26-2006, 07:18 PM Thread Starter
 
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drive sprocket headache

i cant stop the drive sprocket from moving when i try to remove the nut. Its in 6th, and the rear brake is being applied, but i pull through it. Any other way to hold it still while i try to brake the nut loose?
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post #2 of 34 (permalink) Old 03-26-2006, 08:14 PM
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You could try first gear for more compression resistance. Its best to use an impact wrench for this task.

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post #3 of 34 (permalink) Old 03-26-2006, 09:18 PM
 
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JK, I had this problem too. You need to use a really fast torque impact wrench to make it easier. I didn't have one so I got a big breaker bar and yanked up as hard and as fast as I could until she broke loose. Also you did bend the big fender washer up and away from the nut right?
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post #4 of 34 (permalink) Old 03-26-2006, 09:48 PM
 
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Reverse thread?
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post #5 of 34 (permalink) Old 03-26-2006, 10:04 PM
 
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Reverse thread?
nope.
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post #6 of 34 (permalink) Old 03-26-2006, 10:21 PM Thread Starter
 
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Originally Posted by R1up0n1
JK, I had this problem too. You need to use a really fast torque impact wrench to make it easier. I didn't have one so I got a big breaker bar and yanked up as hard and as fast as I could until she broke loose. Also you did bend the big fender washer up and away from the nut right?
i did bend the washer. That thing is a pain. Id rather it was the 2 tab washer and not the round-bend-it-up kind. Did you have it in 1st? Well i just put the new chain on and the FR sprocket will have to wait. Finally got to ditch the clip-type and get a rivet type. Not that theres anything wrong with a clip type, but it was done for and the RTV silicone finally fell off the master link.
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post #7 of 34 (permalink) Old 03-26-2006, 10:58 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JK_DILLA
i did bend the washer. That thing is a pain. Id rather it was the 2 tab washer and not the round-bend-it-up kind. Did you have it in 1st? Well i just put the new chain on and the FR sprocket will have to wait. Finally got to ditch the clip-type and get a rivet type. Not that theres anything wrong with a clip type, but it was done for and the RTV silicone finally fell off the master link.
so I take it you got the nut off?

I just remember bending the washer up flat against the back side, then putting a big socket on the nut, then grabbing a breaker bar and yanking up hard and fast then the nut broke loose with no problem.
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post #8 of 34 (permalink) Old 03-27-2006, 10:08 AM
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A impact is the only way! Forget it any other way!




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post #9 of 34 (permalink) Old 03-27-2006, 10:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gas Man
A impact is the only way! Forget it any other way!

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post #10 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-03-2006, 09:31 PM
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If you use an impact gun, DON'T LEAVE IT IN GEAR!

Larry

Rarely is the question stupid, but sometimes the answer is you need to run everything you read online through your own personal BS meter to determine if it makes sense to you.
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post #11 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-03-2006, 10:21 PM
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JK_DILLA

Did you ever get it changed?

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post #12 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-04-2006, 04:05 AM Thread Starter
 
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JK_DILLA

Did you ever get it changed?
not yet. im giving it another go this weekend. I was going to do it last weekend but rode to New Orleans instead.
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post #13 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-04-2006, 08:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larryg
If you use an impact gun, DON'T LEAVE IT IN GEAR!

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Yeah I imagine its not good for the gears.




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post #14 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-04-2006, 09:55 AM
 
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LOW TECH SOLUTION.................

Measure the distance betwwen the sides of the swingarm at the front of the rear wheel. Now go cut a piece of 2X4 that width, and place it between the wheel and the swingarm, acting as a block to the wheel turning, and set the rear brake. Now go apply torque to the nut; it'll come loose quite easily, you won't need an impact hammer, and you wont mar your wheels, or damage the tranny.

Sometimes, low tech is best.

OTB
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post #15 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-04-2006, 10:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldetymebiker
LOW TECH SOLUTION.................

Measure the distance betwwen the sides of the swingarm at the front of the rear wheel. Now go cut a piece of 2X4 that width, and place it between the wheel and the swingarm, acting as a block to the wheel turning, and set the rear brake. Now go apply torque to the nut; it'll come loose quite easily, you won't need an impact hammer, and you wont mar your wheels, or damage the tranny.

Sometimes, low tech is best.

OTB
Great advice!

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post #16 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-04-2006, 12:44 PM
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Good alternative OTB!




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post #17 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-05-2006, 10:09 AM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldetymebiker
LOW TECH SOLUTION.................

Measure the distance betwwen the sides of the swingarm at the front of the rear wheel. Now go cut a piece of 2X4 that width, and place it between the wheel and the swingarm, acting as a block to the wheel turning, and set the rear brake. Now go apply torque to the nut; it'll come loose quite easily, you won't need an impact hammer, and you wont mar your wheels, or damage the tranny.

Sometimes, low tech is best.

OTB
i'll try that, thanks-
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post #18 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-06-2006, 01:52 PM
 
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I don't understand...The torque on that nut is only 60 to 75 ft.lbs. 99birdv6 and I changed his front (went -1) and it came right off and we had new one installed in less than 10 minutes...
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post #19 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-06-2006, 01:59 PM
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Someone may have cranked his on in the past.

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post #20 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-06-2006, 06:17 PM Thread Starter
 
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Clymers manual says the nut is @ 105 ft-lb.
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