I was doing my 4000 mile maintenance tonight, and discovered that I needed to tighten my chain. Keep in mind this is my first bike, and I'm doing the maintenance all myself.

I go to loosen the rear wheel, and that sucker is tight! It also happens that the only wrenches I have that fit the bolts on the rear wheel are in the tool kit, so I have about a 4" handle to work with.

So, after much tapping on the wrench handle with a hammer, I work it loose and adjust my chain.

Then, I go to tighten it down. Knowing how tight that sucker was when I was taking it off, I just put my weight on the wrench and torqued it down, overshooting the cotter pin hole by about 1mm.

So, I try to back it off, and that thing is not moving.

I did manage to wedge the cotter pin back in there, but it's tight.

Tomorrow, I'm going to buy the sockets to fit those things, so I have a longer handle to work with.

If I can't get it off with two long ratchets (one on each side), I'm going to have to look someone up with an impact wrench.

How tough is that axle & bolt assembly? I'm concerned about stripping the threads. I assume the axle is a much harder metal and the bolt threads would give out before the axle threads, correct?

Why dont you just bring it over to my garage. Ive got all the tools you need, screw that guessing stuff, use my torque wrench. Dont wanna put my cell # on here but call mike to get in touch with me.

if you are going to do your own maintenance...u need the right tools.

you NEED a torque wrench....and apparently a service manual.

my rear tire specs a 72.5lb pound feet of torque....most bikes are probably very close to this.

....72.5 lb ft is NOT that much.....all your weight on a breaker bar or even a rachet set is probably well over 120 lb/tq.

be carefull....dont want to mess up your threads!


alot of people make the mistake of when rotating tires on their cars or doing work on the bike....they use a breaker bar and just make it as tight as they can....overshooting the recommended torque rating by ALOT.....(not a good idea)


please be careful......you are obviously new to working on your own vehicles...or just dont have much experience yet.....get a manual and the right tools for the job....dont gestimate anything....could effect your machine and the ride quality.

I think I'll just go buy a torque wrench. I have the owner's manual, and it tells you how far to torque the nut. I just kinda went by feel, judging how hard it was to take off. I know, bad idea.

Regardless, I'll get it done tonight, the right way, one way or another.

Torque wrench purchased. I should be good to go now.

just mark the spot with a permanent marker... next time you tighten it down, just align it with your mark, it's the method we use on the racetrack.

if you have a jack handle, it is very usefull as a breaker bar attacked to your wrench handle.

-a|ex

he doesnt want to use a breaker bar..nor should anyone!....TOOOOO much torque can be applied by use of a breaker bar and your weight.

also....making a mark isnt the "best" way of doing things...over time it could be that he needs more and more to tighten it down.


a torque wrench set to the specd torque rating is the right way and easiest way....just set and turn until you feel a click...and done!....no guesswork....

no need to find new methods of tightening a bolt...its not tricky....just get a torque wrench...

and you did!!! so now you are set..

but food for thought.....since u say you are doing your own service.....an owners manual isnt really enough....a "service" manual....is what you need...tells you EVERYTHING...and how to do with diagrams.....the same book you pay a dealer 80 bucks an hour to look through when you give to them!!!!!

Yeah, I know. I'm going to get a service manual.

I got home, with my torque wrench, that nut came right off, easy as pie (since I had a longer handle to work with).

I torqued it down to the required 72.5 ft-lbs and am all set!

I have a nice assortment of torque wrenches in my toolbox. But i don't use it for chasis bolts that have cotter pin holes. Why do you think it has a cotter pin hole?

There are some things that you can get away without being precise. I don't even use a torque wrench for valve covers or spark plugs. But then again, i've done enough engine tear downs and blueprinting to get a sensitive feel for it.

What I should say is, it is a good idea to start off with a torque wrench. and after you have re-installed whatever (wheels) 20 times withing a week, you can have the confidence to torque it by feel.

a breaker bar is a great tool.

-a|ex

I have a shotty torque wrench. The kind with the needle at the end. Total piece of shatt. How much is a solid wrench...the clicker sucker?

I got a Craftsman for $75. It will do 20-150 ft-lbs.

Sweet

Does that have the torque settings down at the handle?

I've got the same one and it rocks!

I have always used a cresent hammer.. I mean wrench... on the rear axle nut... then the German meathod... goodntight That means tight but not so much that the wheel won't spin freely!

Yep, the clicky ones.

That's one of my favourite torch wrenches. It's nice to be able to see the needle move so you can see and feel the progression of the measurement. This is how you get to feel the torque settings.

I use the massive clicker wrench as a breaker bar...

Craftsman tools are great. I still have my $20k Snapon tool set from when I worked as a mechanic.

-a|ex

nothing wrong with a beam-type torque wrench. Its good to keep one on hand. Easy to calibrate (just bend the beam to zero) and you can check your click types accuracy against it. Just remember to be smooth when using one. But click types are much faster and convient.

Maybe it's not all that bad...I had no idea any of you guys liked them. Maybe I'll save some cash and keep using it.

WellI have and prefer the clicky style... but the other way isn't bad either...