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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-04-2006, 06:31 AM Thread Starter
 
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Oil Pan jones

Alright the oil pan on the winn-gixxy has been dropped. I think part of the oil leak problem was that I didn't relplace all the washers on the gallery, oil relief valve, etc. last time I did this job. So...I had to order them from Zook. Who knew they didn't stock stuff for a 92????

So my question is this. I have a new gasket, new washers for appropriate valves...what is the key to doing this so that I have no more leaky mcgillicutty? I've scraped off the old gasket residue. Is the deal to get everything good-n-tight or is there another trick to this?



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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-04-2006, 06:54 AM
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I have never removed a oil pan so I can't offer any real advice. I would just make sure your gasket is aligned properly before you go tightening everything up. When I replaced the gasket on my wife thermostat housing (car), it leaked because I didn't align the gasket. I tightened it up with the gasket offline and tore it in the process. I did eventually get another gasket on without leaking, just be patient. Hopefully your repair will got alot smoother than mine.
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-04-2006, 09:05 AM Thread Starter
 
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Beuller....anyone?



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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-04-2006, 10:34 AM
 
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Don't some bikes have a cross-ways tightening pattern for the bolts or nuts?
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-04-2006, 10:52 AM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by No Worries
Don't some bikes have a cross-ways tightening pattern for the bolts or nuts?
Yeah absolutely...I don't recall if I did the criss cross deal the first time.



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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-04-2006, 01:17 PM
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Marko don't you have a service manual for the beast?




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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-04-2006, 01:27 PM
 
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check to see if you can use a permatex product . Some engines won't allow silicone or permatex type products, they mess with the 02 sensor...but I have always used a thin coat of permatex on the pan, not the block. then insert dowels or something slightly smaller than your bolts into the holes. this will allow you to align the gasket and you won't tear anything when you back them out, and the thin layer of permatex will hold the gasket in place. I have even used 2 or 3 of the dowels to "line" the pan up to the bolt holes. Insert the bolts and I use a crossing pattern to snug everything equal and then set the torque wrench and finish it off...

Hope it helps...
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-05-2006, 05:31 AM Thread Starter
 
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Yeah I got a Haynes service manual. I got the pan back on yesterday...after a little heartache.

I stripped out on of the gallery bolts on the side of the pan. I was pizzed off something fierce. So...I removed the washer, which gave it enough threads to get pretty tight. I used some silicone gasket maker to seal it up. I'm hoping this holds. I'm not buying another pan. This one is only a year old. I think it'll hold.

I figured out that last time I didnt' remove the old gasket residue from the engine. I did it from the pan but not the engine. So it's on and torqued properly.

I ran out of time. So I gotta finish today. Mount up exhaust and oil cooler and it's game on. Hopefully no leaks.



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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-05-2006, 11:36 AM
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Here's hopin for ya Marko!

But yeah a good clean surface is a must when it comes to gaskets. I usually hit my stuff with some emry paper before the new gasket and some sealant.




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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-05-2006, 12:28 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marko138
Alright the oil pan on the winn-gixxy has been dropped. I think part of the oil leak problem was that I didn't relplace all the washers on the gallery, oil relief valve, etc. last time I did this job. So...I had to order them from Zook. Who knew they didn't stock stuff for a 92????

So my question is this. I have a new gasket, new washers for appropriate valves...what is the key to doing this so that I have no more leaky mcgillicutty? I've scraped off the old gasket residue. Is the deal to get everything good-n-tight or is there another trick to this?
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-05-2006, 05:38 PM Thread Starter
 
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The bike is back together. I reinstalled the exhaust and oil cooler today...went pretty quick. 4 quarts of oil and a new filter and bang. Fired her up. Immediately sounded better than before.

Let it run a few minutes...checked for leaks. Zero. Topped it off the oil level. Rode about 50 miles and still dry as a bone.

Honestly it has never run better in the 2 years I've owned it. Got the exhaust sealed up proper....my low end torque is back. Feels great.

Job is finished.



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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-05-2006, 07:22 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marko138
The bike is back together. I reinstalled the exhaust and oil cooler today...went pretty quick. 4 quarts of oil and a new filter and bang. Fired her up. Immediately sounded better than before.

Let it run a few minutes...checked for leaks. Zero. Topped it off the oil level. Rode about 50 miles and still dry as a bone.

Honestly it has never run better in the 2 years I've owned it. Got the exhaust sealed up proper....my low end torque is back. Feels great.

Job is finished.
Sweet. Di d the Mcgillicutty perform the deal cuz you fixed the jones?
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-05-2006, 09:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marko138
The bike is back together. I reinstalled the exhaust and oil cooler today...went pretty quick. 4 quarts of oil and a new filter and bang. Fired her up. Immediately sounded better than before.

Let it run a few minutes...checked for leaks. Zero. Topped it off the oil level. Rode about 50 miles and still dry as a bone.

Honestly it has never run better in the 2 years I've owned it. Got the exhaust sealed up proper....my low end torque is back. Feels great.

Job is finished.
I am glad it worked out for you. I'll be ripping my bike apart this weekend trying to track down that elusive short.
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-05-2006, 11:14 PM
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That's awesome Marko! Glad you got it!




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