anyone know how to sand your fairings for paint? - TwoWheelForum: Motorcycle and Sportbike forums
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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-21-2007, 06:15 PM Thread Starter
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anyone know how to sand your fairings for paint?

want to sand my fairings so i could primer them, but scared to start. anyone ever done this kind of work on there bike? any info would be appreciated.

thanks
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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-21-2007, 06:23 PM
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want to sand my fairings so i could primer them, but scared to start. anyone ever done this kind of work on there bike? any info would be appreciated.

thanks
Xxgsxr750xX
Talk to Rae, Saverok, Pippy, damn a number of people have done this... just be patient they'll chime in
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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-21-2007, 06:33 PM
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Well I don't know if mine counts but when I bought my bike it had 5 layers of paint cause the guy was a retard. I just used a 200grit sandpaper to get it all the same height and get rid of the bad tape marks then I used 2 finer grits like 400 and 600 to get the plastics nice and smooth. It worked well for me but like I said I had alot of unwanted paint layers. Hope this helps a little until someone else chimes in.
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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-21-2007, 09:38 PM
 
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want to sand my fairings so i could primer them, but scared to start. anyone ever done this kind of work on there bike? any info would be appreciated.

thanks
Xxgsxr750xX
is it stock paint set up right now? or is there more layers on it.

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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-21-2007, 09:43 PM
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I donno, I let my painter do all this stuff. I know how to do it, but I don't know the grit of the sand paper he uses. I feel better if a professional does it.. maybe because he does it for me for free. I'm about to have him custom paint the R1 as soon as my new bodywork shows up.


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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-21-2007, 09:49 PM
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it all depends on what your trying to fix yourself. scratches, cracks, peeling....? stock paint or redone? you tackleing the paint work too? if not make sure you ask your painter what types of primer to use so it doesnt react to the top coats.
any pics ?

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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-21-2007, 09:52 PM
 
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it all depends on what your trying to fix yourself. scratches, cracks, peeling....? stock paint or redone? you tackleing the paint work too? if not make sure you ask your painter what types of primer to use so it doesnt react to the top coats.
any pics ?
I did my own paint but what you trying to sand out? that we need to know.

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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-23-2007, 01:37 AM
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A general rule of thumb for layers is at least 2 coats of primer, 2-3 coats of color, then 3 coats of clear. Now you really only need to get ride of the clear coats. then you should spray a light coat of primer down take 800 grit paper and WET sand the fairing. use a continus flow of water. this will allow you to create an even surface area. be aware that you have some thin spots in the primer, this is normal. you can continue this process until your happy with the fairing. then you put on the amount of coats I said ealier, 2-3-3.
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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-23-2007, 09:36 AM
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There are already a few threads on this...recently to boot!




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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-23-2007, 11:02 AM
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keepin' an eye on this thread also.

i want to try and paint my fairings myself also.

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post #11 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-23-2007, 02:08 PM
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For light scratches you can shave them out with 220 grit. Bigger ones can be plastic welded of plastic filled. (use high flex filler for bumper skins and such) I like to use high solids surfacer primer 2-3 coats to build a guud surface. use a guide coat and wet sand with 400-500 before sealer primer when you are satisfied. After the sealer primer (1-2 coats) is paint and graphics (3 coats for base) then clear (3 coats) Then you can either color sand and buff or wet sand to smooth surface with 400-500 and reapply clear 1-2 coats.

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post #12 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-23-2007, 02:20 PM
 
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For light scratches you can shave them out with 220 grit. Bigger ones can be plastic welded of plastic filled. (use high flex filler for bumper skins and such) I like to use high solids surfacer primer 2-3 coats to build a guud surface. use a guide coat and wet sand with 400-500 before sealer primer when you are satisfied. After the sealer primer (1-2 coats) is paint and graphics (3 coats for base) then clear (3 coats) Then you can either color sand and buff or wet sand to smooth surface with 400-500 and reapply clear 1-2 coats.
yea thats good

but I wet sanded with 1500, then 2000 then 2500 polished it all up with rubbing compound then buffed it out, then put on another coat and repeated. Then finished it up with some simple polish and wax. Nice black mirror finish.

I recommend using a single stage paint on plastic fairings though. Much easier to deal with and you get both stages rolled in to one. Plus it will hold up to flexing alot better. This is what factory paint is.

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post #13 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-23-2007, 02:47 PM
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When you spray clear it needs a "tooth" to stick to. Otherwise it might peel off. I like using the multi stage because it lasts longer and holds op better. That is why the car companies use it and custom painters alike.

But to each his own.

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post #14 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-23-2007, 02:51 PM
 
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When you spray clear it needs a "tooth" to stick to. Otherwise it might peel off. I like using the multi stage because it lasts longer and holds op better. That is why the car companies use it and custom painters alike.

But to each his own.
true...

But me and my father...well my father in general has a chop specialty shop. That was the first thing he recomended for the flex ability. Now for instance you are planning to go with a more complex color scheme I can see going with a two stage.

But if you going with a single color...just like most factory paint jobs then I would recommend the one stage...

but i agree each there own

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post #15 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-23-2007, 07:35 PM
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I agree with the flex thing. For a lot of dirt bikes and quads I have used the single stage. However there are companies out now that have a flex agent that mixes with the clear (which is the cause for the cracks, splits, etc.) One of these co's claims to have a clear that is so flexable that they painted shoes with it. I am kinda leery of it though.

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post #16 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-23-2007, 07:37 PM
 
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I agree with the flex thing. For a lot of dirt bikes and quads I have used the single stage. However there are companies out now that have a flex agent that mixes with the clear (which is the cause for the cracks, splits, etc.) One of these co's claims to have a clear that is so flexable that they painted shoes with it. I am kinda leery of it though.





I WOULD be leary of that one myself....

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post #17 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-23-2007, 07:43 PM
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Another thing to keep in mind is that a single stage will be cheaper but a multi stage will hold up better to weather and scratches. Just to keep in mind.

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post #18 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-23-2007, 10:07 PM
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Hey Guys I Happen Tobe Checking Out Your Threads And I Like What I Read. I'm Also Getting Ready To Paint My Bike, But I'm Doing Both Plastic,and Metal. Does It Matter Much Which Stage I Use Or Its Just How Much Paint Is On The Bike Already. Mine Had A Simple Paint Job When I Got It, But I'm Looking For A More Hard Finish.

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post #19 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-24-2007, 12:07 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys for all the input, for all i know about my bike was that it was laid down once or twice before i bought it and the guy used some spray paint to cover it up. i am either force to fix what i got or buy new and have a good paint job put on the new ones.. i was looking for opinions and some how-to's. i appreciate all the thoughts..

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post #20 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-24-2007, 10:07 AM
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Hey Guys I Happen Tobe Checking Out Your Threads And I Like What I Read. I'm Also Getting Ready To Paint My Bike, But I'm Doing Both Plastic,and Metal. Does It Matter Much Which Stage I Use Or Its Just How Much Paint Is On The Bike Already. Mine Had A Simple Paint Job When I Got It, But I'm Looking For A More Hard Finish.
If the metal is taken to bare metal use an etching primer first then filler and so on. Don't use the high flex filler, if you need use the regular plastic filler like Bondo. (no more then 1/8 in. thick). Everything else still applies.

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