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Brake bleeding

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B

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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I found this in one of the other threads. I feel a challenge coming on!!


Originally Posted by stevnmd
18 months ago you changed the fluid, eh? You really should bleed the brakes at LEAST once per year. Might as well change the fluid while you're at it. If you've never torn down your calipers, DO SO! If you want some help, let me know. I can post a write-up on how to do it without having to rebuild the entire caliper... After you do it once, it's SUPER easy...



I SAY PROVE IT!!! Write a tutorial and include some pics so we know what you are talking about. Write something a ham-fisted clueless knuckle-buster like me can follow to do a simple procedure like this. I would love to do it myself, but I am afraid I'd F<(% it up and then have the pay the stealer, uh dealer, extra because I "helped". I am not afraid to admit I can't do some of these routine things...so how about some of you vets teach us how to do it???
 
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#6 ·
ShanMan14 said:
Great topic. Ever since I bled my brakes and put in new fluid, they've felt like crap. I'd like to know how to do it correctly. :D
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are you talking about the last time we discussed ur brakes? they are still acting up since then?
 
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M

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#10 ·
ShanMan14 said:
I haven't done anything with them... yet. They still work. :p:

Doesn't a powerbleeder have a crank you turn to suction out the fluid?
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The one I have uses air. Hook it up to the compressor and off you go. It goes through fluid at an alarming rate, though. It does work very quickly and efficiently on the plus side.
 
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#11 ·
I bled my brakes, and replaced my fluid in the spring on my yamaha..just pumped it out via the brake lever, cleaned out the resevoir, replaced the fluid, and it works great ever since... whats the problem!! :wink:
 
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#13 ·
ShanMan14 said:
Great topic. Ever since I bled my brakes and put in new fluid, they've felt like crap. I'd like to know how to do it correctly. :D
Click to expand...
If the pedal is hard, not spongy, you can assume the bleeding was done right. If there is no fork oil, chain lube, or other contaminants on the rotors and pads, there could be a problem with the calipers. My Honda uses guide pins that the pads move on. My pins had worn grooves that hung up the pads. Got new pins from the dealer at a reasonable price and the brakes worked fine.
 
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#14 ·
again, im going through old threads,,,,,

little tip i found out over the years on brake bleeding...sometimes you can bleed the crap out them and they still feel spoungy (sp.), the little trick is to close the bottom bleeder, pump the lever and hold it and break the banjo bolt (one at the brake line) that is on the resevoir at the lever and bleed it there..(use a towell or something to catch the brake fluid)....sometimes no matter what u do you just cant clear the air bubbles that are right at the lever..this works in a lot of cases...
 
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#16 ·
GsxrJack said:
again, im going through old threads,,,,,

little tip i found out over the years on brake bleeding...sometimes you can bleed the crap out them and they still feel spoungy (sp.), the little trick is to close the bottom bleeder, pump the lever and hold it and break the banjo bolt (one at the brake line) that is on the resevoir at the lever and bleed it there..(use a towell or something to catch the brake fluid)....sometimes no matter what u do you just cant clear the air bubbles that are right at the lever..this works in a lot of cases...
Click to expand...
To add to your tip about bleeding the line at the master reservoir, take a screw driver and tap each line starting at the caliper. Work your way up to the reservoir and then bleed. This will get the last trapped bubble or two of air out of the system. Mity-Vacs work well but your trying to pull the air bubble down through the line when it naturally wants to float to the top of the system. Plus, you end up using more fluid to get the system fully bled.
 
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#17 ·
Nine29 said:
To add to your tip about bleeding the line at the master reservoir, take a screw driver and tap each line starting at the caliper. Work your way up to the reservoir and then bleed. This will get the last trapped bubble or two of air out of the system. Mity-Vacs work well but your trying to pull the air bubble down through the line when it naturally wants to float to the top of the system. Plus, you end up using more fluid to get the system fully bled.
Click to expand...
You can reuse the the fluid :yaewn: AND you you build up enough pressure before you open the bleeder, you get those air bubbles with not problems.
 
Gas Man

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#18 ·
Just watch out with the brake fluid.


IT WILL DESTROY YOUR PLASTICS IF YOU GET IT ON THERE AND DON'T CLEAN IT UP RIGHT AWAY!!

Also, good tip there Jack...I'll keep that in mind!! :dthumb:
 
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Gas Man
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