[snadamo]

Okay here is the deal: The final thing that needs to be done is replace the warped front rotors. I have all the replacements ready to go, and even some help from a mechanic. The problem is, I need to get the front wheel off in order to take it to his shop and work on it. I know that a front wheel stand is the best way to go, but unfortunately I dont have one, and would like to get these rotors on soon. This is what I have at my disposal:

A motorcycle/ATV jack
my real wheel stand.
my scissor jack from my car
possibly some jack stands as well

Is there really any way to get the front end off the ground with these items? I have seen Sportbikes been lifted with the motorcycle jack, but in my case, the headers really dont leave a flat and level surface to really lift up without it wobbling or falling down.

How do you guys take off your front wheel?

I might just say screw it and just drive it down to a shop and get EVERYTHING done in one shot, and not have to worry about it anymore. I dont know, so what do you guys think?

:ffedback:

Thanks!

 

[Gas Man]

Just use the MC jack... you'll have to remove all the lower fairings but it should go right up taking the rear and front wheels off the ground.

I take it by MC jack..you mean something like in my attached pic?!?!

 

[snadamo]

Just use the MC jack... you'll have to remove all the lower fairings but it should go right up taking the rear and front wheels off the ground.

I take it by MC jack..you mean something like in my attached pic?!?!

Yep thats it. Mine is yellow but yea thats it. Do I really want to lift it on the headers or try to find another surface?

 

[jeeps84]

Just use what you have. The header will support the bike. Just don't be setting on it when lifted. Try to secure from falling with straps if possible.

 

[snadamo]

Just use what you have. The header will support the bike. Just don't be setting on it when lifted. Try to secure from falling with straps if possible.

Not making fun or anything, but you mean "sitting" on the bike right? If thats the case, then yes, I wont sit on it. I also was planning on having a buddy help me out so I will have it tied down and a spotter to boot, so I should be good to go! My plan was to just tie it down to the jack itself (I dont have anywhere else to tie it to)

I assume removing the wheel is pretty easy (I dont have a manual) I am sure I should have all the tools necessary provided in the back seat of bike to remove the tire, right? Sorry for all the stupid questions, I just have never done this before! Thanks again!

 

[jeeps84]

Just remove the calipers for easy off. Make sure you spread the calipers open a bit to make it easier for reinstall.

 

[jeeps84]

If you can get the wheel off. You can change the rotors as well.

 

[snadamo]

Just remove the calipers for easy off. Make sure you spread the calipers open a bit to make it easier for reinstall.

If you can get the wheel off. You can change the rotors as well.

Assuming that each of the bolts on the rotor would require the same amount of torque (which I dont have an air wrench at home) I am taking it to work so the mechanic and I (he has a V-Star, nice bike) can install the rotors together. I just dont think I have the proper tools to do something of this importance like brakes. Other than that, I would do it myself. But yea, I will spread the calipers open for the easy install. Thanks for the tip. :cheers:

 

[Gas Man]

The MC jack should have little feet things you can position in various spots and the header will support some weight.

 

[EIDROEDYR]

What I would do is jack-up the rear wheel and then use ratchet straps to lift the front end (assuming you can suspend your straps from rafters). I use this method pretty regularly. If you don't have access to a garage, you can also use steel plumbing pipe to build a jig that extends from the floor to a foot or two over the bars. You can then use the ratchet straps. It may sound strange but it works and only cost 20 bucks or so to build.

 

[jeeps84]

If you don't have access to a garage, you can also use steel plumbing pipe to build a jig that extends from the floor to a foot or two over the bars. You can then use the ratchet straps. It may sound strange but it works and only cost 20 bucks or so to build.

Great idea! :dthumb:

 

[larryg]

You may want to break loose the axle and other bolts before lifting the bike as well. This way you are not putting a heavy load on it while it is off the ground. The same goes in reverse...snug everything while it is in the air then torque it to spec resting on the ground.

Larry

 

[Gas Man]

Good stinkin Larry! Just like when changing a tire on a car!

 

[snadamo]

Thanks guys for all your help. I did manage to securely lift the bike up to remove the wheel. However, the mechanic had an emergency to attend, and had to cancel our time working on my rotors. So, that being said. I needed to replace the fork seals anyway, as well as the rotors. Rather than me attempt to remove tires and rotors, I will let the repair shop handle all that crap. They have the proper equipment, and they are certified. So if most anything happens, its on them. I was planning on taking it there to replace blown fork seals anyway, it just makes sense since the wheel needs to be removed to do the seals. At this point, I am willing to pay the extra $$ to get it done the right way and faster than I could, not to mention the hassles. I am just done with working on the bike and I want to get started on RIDING the bike. However, I learned how to lift my bike if I needed to. I think with every experice you encounter, you gain some knowledge, if you dont learn anything, then you wasted your time...So once again thanks for all your help!

 

[jeeps84]

Good stinkin Larry! Just like when changing a tire on a car!

I didn't smell a thing. :lol: :lol:

 

[snadamo]

She is in for repair...I am getting anxious!

I took her in to Kelly's Kawasaki in Mesa today for the final repairs. Fork seals and rotors, and also check the engine/carbs. They are also going to perform a safety inspection (this is basically a mock DMV inpsection; they get these salvage bikes all the time I guess) free of charge. I loaded the bike this morning and it was off to the shop. I spoke to the head mechanic for like an hour and we went through anything I was worried about, and all the stuff he says should be easy. We also noticed the bike is running slightly lean, as it is slightly slow to idle whe revv'ed. The bike SHOULD be done by Saturday, but I wont hold my breath. However, I have all the insurance stuff setup and ready to go so I can print out my temp plate so I can ride it home . My new target date for completion seems to be looking good! (end of September). I am sure they will find some stuff that they will insist that it needed to be done, but he told me they would call before they do anything I didnt ask them to. Total bill is about $350 give or take, so its not too bad. However, I am sure I am getting raped for the fork seals, but I just want them done right, and by a certified Kawasaki shop, so if anything goes wrong, its them that fixes it, not me. I cant wait until she is done. My summer project will finally be complete, and I have a new ride

 

[Gas Man]

That's awesome...keep us updated....

But for $350 you are getting the safety inspection, forks worked over, carbs adjusted, installed new rotors??? If so that isn't so bad at all! Actually a pretty good price!

 

[snadamo]

That's awesome...keep us updated....

But for $350 you are getting the safety inspection, forks worked over, carbs adjusted, installed new rotors??? If so that isn't so bad at all! Actually a pretty good price!

the fork seals are going to be $200-$220 depending on "the outer seals" needing to be replaced? (Im lost on that one). Then the rotors since I purchased them on eBay they are installing them for $30 and the carb/engine adjustments he said approx $75. We let the bike run for 10 minutes or so and checked it out. He said everything sounds and looks fine, its just running a little lean. And the here and there bolts that either snapped and need to be tapped out, or just missing, like $20 or so. So yea, I am expecting to get out of there realistically $385 +tax. But if you guys think thats good, them I am okay with it. Like I said before, at this point, money is almost not an issue. I just want the bike done so I can get riding.

 

[snadamo]

A few days, and $650 later...

On top of the other stuff that was wrong with my bike, the bike is running lean. I was slow to idle from the day I got it, so I figured that was normal. In other words when you revved it up, it just didnt go back down to idle as quickly as usual. They told me carbs were pretty dirty, one causing not to fire on a cylinder. So they have to basically clean out the carbs and re-sync em. And I know that costs some money. Lets not even get into labor time. However, I am okay with it, I just want the bike done right. I pick it up either tomorrow after work or Tuesday before school. I dont know yet. I would be cool riding into school on my bike, we will see...THE WAIT IS KILLING ME!!!!!! :yikes:

 

[jeeps84]

The outer seals you mentioned earlier are just the black dust covers that you see on the forks. The price still doesn't sound that bad for shop work. :luck: