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HELP!!! My Bike is DEAD

952 Views 10 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  jeeps84
Hi Everyone
I park my bike in the corner of the parking garage, its just big enought to not bother anyone else. Well I guess it did bother someone because I found a warning teling me to move the bike.. No biggie, When i went to move it, the biek would not start, I checked everything and It wouldn't budge, not even the dash lights. So I finally pulled the seat, as i did I was the screws were pretty loose in there. I jumped it with the car ( I KNow, I know) and it started right up. I figured i must have left it in the ignition position that leave the brake light on. As soon as I pulled the cable off the bike died. So I jumped it again and gave it some throttle, and pulled the calble off died. So i jumped a 3rd time and left it on there for 10 minutes or so and then pulled it. It did not die but the lights started flickering and it ran like crap. I played with the jumper cable giving it power and taking it away and as soon as i made contact it would run fine and as soon as I pulled it it would flicker and bog. I drove it around for a few minutes thinking i woudl charge, it started to run a bit better, but when I shut it off, it woudnt start again.

I checked the fuse under the seat and it was ok. But i dont think it has anything to do with it.

DO I need a new battery? Is my alternator bad? is there a bad fuse? If someone was messing with me, what could they have done to kill it like that.

I also noticed one of the bar ends is missing as well. But it could have been like that before.
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Heya Monster,

I just got done fixing a similar problem on my F3. I definitely agree with jeeps and snadamo - you should make sure the battery is fully charged and still willing to hold charge. It seems that's the most likely culprit.

In my case, however... a dead battery was only the sympom of another faulty part. I had somehow blown the Regulator/Rectifier, which converts the AC from the alternator to DC for the rest of the bike's electrical system including the battery. Bought a new battery, fried a new battery. :-/ Because of how the R/R failed, I was afraid the stator was bad as well. But it turned out to be okay.

If your bike is like mine and if you have a Digital Multimeter, there are pretty simple tests to see if the R/R and stator are still good... I'm not sure if I should post more details about my misadventure in case our setups are much different. Service manual is probably the best place to get the procedure for your bike. Let me know if you don't get it running. If you do replace the battery all i can say is make sure you're getting about 14.5 volts across the battery terminals when the engine is running above 3krpm.

Good luck! I'll keep an eye out for your reply. ;)
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