[95zx600c]

I picked up my bike Saturday; once again it's a '95 Ninja 600R (ZX600C8) California model (unfortunately). Got it home and was able to give it an initial inspection.

For starters, it was a good thing I was planning on replacing the fork oil. The right fork seal is blown, evident the first time I hit the front brake and oil spilled all over my wheel. So I'm going to replace the front springs, fork seals, and oil. The front rotors are also a bit grooved so I'm going to replace both of them with the pads, as well as rebuild the calipers. Not sure if my wheel bearings are serviceable, but if so I'm going to grease them up while it's all apart. I don't think I want to risk rebuilding the forks myself right now, so I got a quote from a local Kawi shop to do both forks seals and springs for $150 including oil, with me bringing in the forks off the bike all ready. I'm going to pickup a liter of Ohlins anyway, as I hear good things.

The chain is pretty grimy and in definite need of cleaning at least, but I was thinking of getting the RK Chain / Sprocket set. My Clymers manual says that stock the bike has an endless chain, and that it’s dangerous to replace it with a master link type chain. The worst part about the endless chain is that you need to pull the swing arm for chain replacement, which seems like an unneeded hassle. What are your thoughts on this? Should I get a new stock endless chain, or go ahead with an aftermarket?

Coolant looks ok, but I'm draining it to replace the T-stat and coolant hoses. Will refill with some Engine Ice per recommendation. The bikes capacity it 2 liters, so I'm just going to fill with one half gallon of Engine Ice, and top off with some distilled water.

One thing I was wondering about is whether or not the All Balls Steering Stem Bearings are a worthwhile upgrade. While I have all this ripped apart, I'd like to get as much done as possible. $27.16 seems like a reasonable price for a better bearing. What are everyone’s thoughts on these? How much of a pain are they to install?

Other than that.. It has a new battery, new seat, and a new vapor separator (CA Emissions thing). I'm also doing plugs, wires, vacuum lines, rebuilding the rear caliper and installing new pads. As in my previous post I still need to clean / rebuild the carbs before it will even run. Would anyone have an idea why my Clymers manual does not list a Pilot screw for the CA models? In the Carb Spec table there is a '2' listed for 49-state in the Pilot Screw field, but a '-' in the California spot. Definitely have my work cut out for me as I've never serviced a bike before. The Clymers manual is very clear and easy to follow, so I don't think I'll have many problems. Looking forward to starting disassembly Thursday :dthumb:

 

[Gas Man]

Ok...let's start..

Should be any need to replace the front springs unless you are trying to change the fork characteristics.... just change both fork seals, bushings, and the oil.

Engine Ice is suppose to be straight. You may be able to get by with the small top off but it will say not to dillute.

Chain.... you don't need to remove the swingarm... :crazy: You need to get a chain break tool. You break off the old one and put on a new one. Don't use a chain with a removeable link. Most if not all of the desent O &/or X-ring chains out come with "replaceable links" for a master. Much stronger and less problems in the future. but again you need the correct tool to install.

Definately new plugs, fuel filter, clean carbs, sync carbs and all that great stuff....

 

[bumblebee]

I would like to add that you go through your electrical system and check all connections, fittings, grounds, splices, etc. Also replace all of your fuses and links...many problems in older bikes, especially low mileage or sitting bikes can be traced to electrical system...

 

[95zx600c]

Right on. The bike has 13,169 miles on it, so not very high for the year. I was going to replace the springs with stock Kawis since it was only $90 for the pair. But if you really don't think it's needed than I will hold out on that for a while.

As for the engine ice, I wasn't sure if topping it off 0.028 of a liter would make a difference. Seems minimal, and that's exactly how short it would be. Having some extra around wouldn't kill me, but I hate to buy another 1/2 gallon for that minuscule an amount.

On to the chain ---> The RK Sprocket kit comes with the front and rear sprocket, as well as their Gold Chain w/ master link. That is what I prefer to use. I was just concerned with this because the Clymers says specifically not to use anything but an "endless chain" which I suspect is a preassembled to length chain with no master. But like I said, if it really won't present a safety issue than I prefer to use the RK Gold.

Bumblebee - good call on the electrical. I was planning on checking the wires for frays, cracks, and the like but didn't think about replacing the fuses.

Thanks as always =)

- Matt

 

[Gas Man]

You will be fine with the springs and your engine ice idea. Leave the springs for now and go with some extra DISTILLED water...

The RK chain with a rivit type link will be the good choice. Just make sure you get a O or X ring. Not sure about Clymers warning... the chain will come probably 110 links long and you will end up only needing like 103-107. Don't go counting them. Put the sprockets on and the rear wheel. Move it about 1/3 the way back and thread in the new chain. Line it up on the rear sprocket and then you'll know where you need to cut it/how many links to cut off.

The chain job might take a little bit of time...just remember... measure twice and cut once. If you're not sure, cut the chain a link long and put it back on the bike and check it again... then if it's a link long, remove another one.