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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i have just been given a 2002 suzuki bandit 600 from a friend and it has some problems,first it has white smoke coming from the tailpipe when i first start it up and then when i am riding it, it really boggs down and has no power really what do i need to do?????????i had a ninja about 5 years ago and it never did this so i am new to the whole thing any help would be app.
 

· Moderator , Lifetime Gold Supporting Member, '07 R
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:welcome:
How many miles are on it?

Is it over full with oil?
Oil maybe in the air box from a tip over or crash or being over filled.
It may be jetted wrong.
These thing are the easy fix.
Hopefully its not the rings.
 

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Welcome. Good to have another B6er on here. I have an 02 also. Get on Banditalley or Maximum Suzuki. Tons of guys there with alot of knowledge and real friendly atmosphere like here. The white smoke thing is probably a carb issue. Those motors are pretty bulletproof even with 0 maintenance. Could possibly be a clogged up airfilter? Are there any mods done to it? I'm not a carb guru but I know white smoke means rich or lean but I'm not sure which. If it runs better with the choke on a little bit that would indicate a lean condition and give you some direction. Also, if it has a pipe on it and was not rejetted, that will give you problems as those bikes are really lean from the factory.

Hope that helps some.
 

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White smoke on startup is burned oil: either from bad valve guides or you have a breather problem pulling oil up into the airbox. If you were given the bike, I would hazard a guess that there may be some issues....if the bike has mods, they may be adjusted incorrectly; if the bike is stock, check compression and leakdown first; if thats OK, needs a tuneup.

Tuneup will not fix the oil issue, but mebbe the bogging....could be caused by oiling the plugs. Sometimes "free" isn't free. Just depends on how badly the bikes been flogged and/or abused.

The reason the bike smokes at startup is that oil in the head runs down through the excesive clearance of the worn valve guides and pools on the intake valve or runs into the cylinder...then gets burned up at startup. Replacing valve guides is not a big deal if you're mechanically inclined; if you're not, it's a "free" bike, it's a good way to learn.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
thanks for all the help i am going to look at what yall said and if i cant figure it out then i will take it to a shop. does anyone know of a good shop in austin to take it to???? by the way it has 8000 miles on it and was sitting for about 4months with no work or care for it, it has no mods done to it andi only know of one wreak but when it does warm up it runs good well okay
 

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psycholonghorn said:
... by the way it has 8000 miles on it and was sitting for about 4months with no work or care for it, it has no mods done to it andi only know of one wreak but when it does warm up it runs good well okay

More info is better.....sounds like maybe it's a case of sit-itis...start with the easy/cheap stuff first. If this were my bike, I'd start simple/cheap.

A. Drain the gas tank....flush with fresh gas and drain again/check for rust/water. (The bogging problem)

B. Fill with Chevron premium...they have an additive (Techron) which really does clean carbs and injectors...if non available in your area, put in fresh gas a nd 8 oz of Yamaha carb cleaner(not because it's a Yamaha...this stuff works better than ANY other product, period!). If the carbs are munged up a little, this will clean it up....if it's a more serious case of mung, the carbs will need disassembly and hand cleaning.

C. Drain the oil and change the filter and refill with the recommended type and AMOUNT. Sometimes bad float needles/fuel petcocks can allow fuel to overflow into the motor; causes thinning of the oil and overfilling of the crankcase. (The smoking problem).

D. Check the airbox for oil puddling to eliminate chance of oil breather problems.

If these simple/cheap fixes don't fix the problems, you will need more significant repairs/adjustments.
 

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oldetymebiker said:
B. Fill with Chevron premium...they have an additive (Techron) which really does clean carbs and injectors...if non available in your area, put in fresh gas a nd 8 oz of Yamaha carb cleaner(not because it's a Yamaha...this stuff works better than ANY other product, period!). If the carbs are munged up a little, this will clean it up....if it's a more serious case of mung, the carbs will need disassembly and hand cleaning.
Any gas with ethenol in it will do the same which is acholol at the basis... and we all know that it cleans stuff well. Trust me I know a little about this and learn more everyday due to my profession.... hence my screne name!
 

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Forgot about the oil-in-airbox thing. Down where the exhaust collector hooks to the midpipe there should be 2 hoses. One of them will have a cap on it. Its a drain for the airbox.Take the cap off and see what comes out(it'll probably be an ugly gas/oil mixture). This should be done every once in a while like maybe every oil change.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Bandit 6S said:
Forgot about the oil-in-airbox thing. Down where the exhaust collector hooks to the midpipe there should be 2 hoses. One of them will have a cap on it. Its a drain for the airbox.Take the cap off and see what comes out(it'll probably be an ugly gas/oil mixture). This should be done every once in a while like maybe every oil change.
thanks i will try that in the morning and see how it works and get back with you
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
i also had a question about a fuel fliter...i took off the tank and i saw what appeared to be a fuel fliter but when i went to the bike shop they said they didnt see a fuel fliter on the diagram so is that a fuel fliter or not????if not what is it????sorry for all the questions but like i said i have never had these problems before....thanks for all yous guys help
 
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