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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As the title implies.. I just got my first bike :drool:

It's a 1995 Ninja zx600c. I'm not exactly sure if this is a good beginner bike, but am certainly open for input on that. Anything in particular I should be aware of with this bike as a new rider? From what I understand, power is mostly in the 7500RPM+ range, so if I keep it low it won’t be bad. I'm 6'3" - 160lbs if it matters, and I’ve never ridden. At the price I got it at though, practically free, I'm not going to complain either way. I plan on keeping the bike a year and then upgrading to either a 636 or maybe an R6.

Currently it is not running. She picked up a new bike and hasn’t even moved this one in a year or so. I'm not sure of the mileage as I have not yet picked the bike up (looking for trailer) The person I bought it from told me that the carbs most likely need a good cleaning and it should be good to go. It also has some rust on the exhaust, so I'm going to go ahead and replace it with a Vance & Hines SSR2 full system before it even hits the street. I'll also replace any vacuum lines I can get to, fuel filter if it's on there, and plugs. Timing will also be checked and adjusted as needed. Brake wear, line condition, master cylinder condition, etc will all be checked. I’m not sure how much of a pain it is to check the clutch on a bike, if it’s not too much trouble I’ll inspect the steels and measure the friction plates. Otherwise I’ll just wait and see how it grips when it’s mobile again, and go from there. Anything else I should replace immediately, or at least thoroughly inspect? I was thinking of getting a new chain to be safe, but don’t really know if that will be necessary. I really want to make sure this thing is safe, sounding, and running as well as possible before I take it out.

I've built quite a few cars in my day, both import and domestic, so I'm no slouch in mechanics. However, everything I've built has been fuel injected. This will be my first experience with carbs. Since I will have them off for cleaning, I've ordered rebuilt kits for all 4. At $18 a pop, sounds like a reasonable investment. I also ordered the Clymers repair manual, which should arrive early this week. I was advised by a local shop that Clymers is more cycle geared than Haynes, so that's what I went with. I'm assuming the manual will go over carb R&R as well as rebuilding in depth. Is this a reasonable assumption? I hear the process is time consuming, but relatively easy. Is there anything I need to be particularly careful with?

That's all I've got for now. Sorry for the long post :sorry:

-Matt
 

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A great bike. I would paint or polish the stock exhaust and spend the money on new tires. The carbs definitely need cleaning. As for the timing, just use a timing light as it's probably electronic advance. Change the plugs, oil, gas, and filters. If it uses a fuel pump, I would also check that too. Just bleed the brakes and check the pads. For the clutch, just adjust the cable or bleed if hydraulic. Good luck.
 

· V-Twin Moddin
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First off :welcome:

You may want to get a Kaw Service Manual as well... maybe.

Sounds like you're on the right track...

-Check the brakes, and change out the fluid!

-Make sure the tires are in good condition and not dry rotted.

-Empty and refill the gas tank...replace the main gas line and gas filter.

-Replace the plugs.

-Check and lube the clutch and throttle cables.

-Change the oil and filter.

That's all for now...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the responses; this place differs from many car forums I have frequented. Far less bitching with useful responses in all posts I've read so far. Good to see, especially since I know little about bikes :lol: I've been on the site all day and have definitely learned a lot.

I'm going to check out the Clymers prior to dumping a bunch on a factory service manual. I don't think I'm getting into anything too deep at this point to warrant the purchase of one. Factory car manuals are usually around $100, and I only paid $30 for the Clymers. I will definitely pick up a factory manual as I start to do more with the bike, or feel that the Clymers is just not sufficient. At this point as long as I get clear directions on the carb rebuild I'll be happy and content.

All fluids will be drained and replaced first thing as well. I was planning on pulling and emptying the tank before I start on the carbs. This thing has sat outside for a year and I'm not sure if she drained it first or not. Will know later this week when I pick it up I guess. I did consider replacing the fuel line as well, but wasn't sure how important that would be. I suppose it will be a pretty short line and should get replaced regardless, so I'll definitely add that to my list. Depending on the cost, I may replace the clutch and throttle cables to be safe. I've read about some issues arising from stretched cables that I'd rather avoid. I don't know how a good cable would feel, so no basis for comparison. At the very least I will grease them up and see how they do.

Two other things I'm curious about. Should I drain and replace the fork oil to be safe? If it's not too much of a pain, I would definitely like to do this. Also, what about synchronizing the carbs? I suspect this will have to be done, and am hoping my manual explains it. What is the purpose of this, where can I buy the needed gauge, and how much should I expect to spend on it?

Thank again for all the advice. I can't wait to get this thing on the road!

- Matt
 

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I just sold a 97' ZX 600 and I loved it!! I would of kept it if it wasn't for the "old looks" of the body style,but the bike was in incredible shape when I bought it and even better when I sold it! Man that thing ran like a top!K/N filter,dyno jet kit,and Muzzy exhaust...shift around 9-10 grand and she would sing!!!Anywhoo...you will want to sync the carbs after a rebuild,while your in there,check the valve lash,and I'd recommend cleaning the scale off all the coolant hoses(sos pad or somthin)andthe radiator also.As clean as my bike was it still had alot of scale and corrosion around the hose connections,be thorough!you dont want to take it all apart for somthin stupid,use new o-rings on the coolant fittings that are on the top of the cyl. head,new thermostat,brake fluid,check the cond. of the battery and electrolyte.
 

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I think It's a perfect beginners bike,just the way it rides and handles,much easier than the brand new sport bikes,I did the same thing,rode mine for a year then went new,the bikes I had ridden on the street till then were dual sports,that was kinda my first "sport" bike,even though it was a hundred pounds heavier it still "handled" easier.ATTEND AN MSF COURSE!!! they'll help alot,you'll learn to ride the right way in a contolled environment,not on the street...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Awesome, that's good to hear. I'm not too worried about the styling right now for obvious reasons. I'd be P.O'ed if I got a new bike and layed it down. If I drop this one, I'm not going to be too concerned so long as I'm not injured. Plus this thing has like 75HP 46ft/lbs stock, so I figured it would be easier to adjust to.

How did you like your Muzzy? I considered getting one of their systems instead of the Vance & Hines. The dealer told me they are pretty equal in power, but the Muzzy has more of throaty sound to it.

I will be going to an MSF class as soon as possible. I live in Northern Maryland, so there are a lot of places to take it. Just need to get myself booked.

Valve lash is something else I picked up on today and will most definately check. I've adjusted lash on a lot of cars, so I doubt it'll be much different. Thanks for the tip on the coolant hoses, adding it to the list.

- Matt
 

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The Muzzy was great(full exhaust)! I'm tellin you when you get the r's up around 9-10 g's she sang! Like an F-1 engine..wish I coulda kept her...but no more room in the stable.
 

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95zx600c said:
I've adjusted lash on a lot of cars, so I doubt it'll be much different. - Matt
On most cars, you don't have to take the cams off to adjust the lash. I'm pretty sure your Ninja has shims under the buckets, above the valves. You check the lash just like a car, but adjusting will be a lot different. I'm glad to hear you want to work on your bike. It's really more fun than a car.
 

· V-Twin Moddin
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Glad you noticed that :twfrox: it's the only national/international forum to be on!!

I would definately change out the anti-freeze. Buy some Cycle Logic Engine Ice...it is made just for your MC. Plus flush it out with some distilled water prior to filling it with the new stuff... distilled is the important thing! You will need 2 of the cycle logic bottles...they should cost you about $16-$20 per bottle (1/2 gal a piece) you will only use about 3/4 a gal.

Fork oil.... DEFINATELY!!! Get some good stuff. Sense you have no bearing on how it will change the feel of the bike... get some desent Ohlins 10W oil. That would be a great idea!
 

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While you've got the tank off, make sure to check the inside for rust, or even pinholes if there is rust...

If there's rust and its minor, there's a product called kreem or something like that that you can coat the inside of the tank with to seal it up...

Also, make sure the petcock is in good condition... and the seal for it on the tank too...
 

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scorpion said:
While you've got the tank off, make sure to check the inside for rust, or even pinholes if there is rust...

If there's rust and its minor, there's a product called kreem or something like that that you can coat the inside of the tank with to seal it up...

Also, make sure the petcock is in good condition... and the seal for it on the tank too...
Older bikes that have weathered outside for a year or two are bad to get moister inside the tank and rust.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I refuse to take any of my automobiles, and now my bike, to a mechanic unless absolutely necessary. There isn't much I can't fix on a car from headwork to transmission rebuilding. I look forward to learning more about bike mechanics and having something else to cuss at in 95 degree weather :willy: I've found common opinion to be that working on a bike carries more enjoyment than working on a car. I tell you, with some of the cramped import engine bays I've worked in, I find this pretty easy to believe.

I'm going to check with my local shop about getting some of that Engine Ice, as well as Ohlins fork oil. Hopefully the fork seals are in good order so I can just drain and refill. I found the Motion Pro carb sync tool online so I'll be ordering that next paycheck. Looks like a fairly simple process. Anyone recommend picking up one of their carb adjustment tools as well? Or can I get away with hand tools for this job?

Added the Petcock assembly to my inspection list and will definitely be looking for rust and / or flaking in the fuel tank. I was thinking along the same lines about the moisture since it's been outside. When I pick it up Saturday the first thing I'm doing is pulling the tank and draining fuel from every possible place. I’ll also be draining the coolant and oil.

You guys kick arse. Thanks for all of the positive feedback and input you’ve been providing. :readng: It will definately all come in use.

- Matt
 

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SVupON1 said:
:iagree: :welcome: 95zx600c :twfrox:
+1 :welcome: 95zx600c

I dont know about everyone elses thoughts on gloves, but I made sure I had some hard protection on there somewhere like on the back of the hand or knuckles when I purchased my gloves. I guess some protection is better than none. But im new to all of this as well, so yep not trying to critisize at all.
 

· V-Twin Moddin
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99zx... glad to help... sounds like you got the right idea... and yes working on bikes is more of a enjoyment where working on cars is usually required to get to work and therefor less enjoyment...
 
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