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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
78' kz1000 with fresh 1075 kit. Starter sounds like it turns but doesnt spin the engine. Took off the left engine cover to check starter clutch and seems to work fine. Then I may have messed up, tried to push start it. Put it in 3rd and popped the clutch and all kinds of evil noises came out, engine turned but was obviously not happy. done messing tonight but was gonna pull the head off tomorrow and have a peek. How would it act if I spun the crankshaft? Making around 130hp at rear wheel and never welded the crank. Only have 408 miles on this rebuild and almost $5000 to get it done.
 

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Your Kawi may be like my 79 GS1000. If the starter won't disengage the gears, the solenoid may be bad. Or the gears from the starter motor or starter idler may be bad, or cocked. My starter gear, idler gear, and alternator gear all mesh together with washers, pins, and blind holes on the left engine cover. I would check all those again before pulling the head. On mine everything has to be lined up, with heavy grease holding the washer, while the alternator magnet pulls the cover from your hand. What a pain. Doesn't yours also have a kick start you can use?
 

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mlkx3 said:
78' kz1000 with fresh 1075 kit. Starter sounds like it turns but doesnt spin the engine. Took off the left engine cover to check starter clutch and seems to work fine. Then I may have messed up, tried to push start it. Put it in 3rd and popped the clutch and all kinds of evil noises came out, engine turned but was obviously not happy. done messing tonight but was gonna pull the head off tomorrow and have a peek. How would it act if I spun the crankshaft? Making around 130hp at rear wheel and never welded the crank. Only have 408 miles on this rebuild and almost $5000 to get it done.
i dont think you could have spun the crank just by push starting it, but those old kawasaki's loved to spin the crank (suzukis too i beleive) and you should have had it welded....if for some reason you have to tear into it and you plan on keeping it id weld it up...just my .02
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I dont think the two problems are related but the reason I took the cam cover and head off is the unmistakeable sound of valves hitting the pistons.
When I took the cam cover off and spun the engine the cam chain would get real tight then real loose so I was sure I had skipped time, pulled the head and every valve has made contact with the pistons. Gonna take the head back for new valves and probably guides but what caused this to happen? Ill post a pic of the head in a few minutes.
 

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Looks like the cam chain skipped a tooth or two or more (did you count) on the intake cam...What kind of cam chain tensioner did you have in it?

Larry
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Its the stock manual tensioner, has a slide with a spring behind it and a set screw on the side. Is it possible that screw wasnt tight enough and the slide moved back? When I took out the set screw it appears that it may have been either cross threaded or the locking nut was overtightened and pulled on the threads to hard? Whats the average cost for head work? When I had it built I had oversized valves and a port and polish job done as well but the cost wasn't broke down.
 
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