Honda's, except for the VFR and RC51, are known for trouble with the cam chain tensioner (CCT). Mine operates with a spring and oil pressure, so at startup and idle it's pretty noisy. I wouldn't worry, but next time you adjust the valves, you can see how much your cam chain has stretched.
That horrifying "clicking" noise
I have just noticed that when my bike has a cold start (either when it sits for a day or two, or when I start her at night), that if I give it a few revs, I hear a very faint cicking that is syncronized with the engine RPM (hope that makes sense). This occurs in the 3,000-6,000 RPM range (thats at least when I hear it). After the bike is all warmed up to about 150+ degrees, I rev it up and the clicking noise seems to go away. I rode it a few days ago with a 48 hour "rest" in between rides, and noticed it then. Also noticed it tonight when it was sitting at the little ladies house all night after I rode it today. I had to actually use the choke for the first time, or the bike would crap out. Every stop sign on the way home I gave it a rev or two to see if it made the noise. Realisticly, I dont think it was. But by then my mind started playing tricks on me. When I got home and rode in the complex parking lot, I cruised in at 3-6k RPM range and heard nothing. I have never before heard this noise, until I have had a few true cold starts. Is this something I should be worried about? :help:
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Now that sounds more like an ignition problem, like a bad coil, plug or plug wire. When the CCT goes bad or the chain stretches, the cam timing is retarded. Runs great at high rpm, but not at idle and low rpm. Could also be a loose or broken motor mount. I think it needs some more testing. And some muffins would be nice too.snadamo said::cursin:... Once it turned green I monitored my RPM and at 7-9k, it started that rattling again, bad. Anything below that RPM is fine and dandy...
When my CBR had no high-end power, I thought it was the carbs. After cleaning everything in the float chamber and vacuum chamber, the bike ran the same. I pulled a spark plug and had a good spark. I pulled each spark plug and the color was perfect.snadamo said:I noticed today that when I gave the throttle a squeeze it was slightly delayed (this is from I would say 15-30MPH range).
I hooked up my old timing light to #1 cylinder and aimed it at the timing mark. It was on the top dead center mark, but it should have been on the "F" mark. I reved the engine and the mark didn't move. Needed a new pulse generator. After $50 and one week wait for the part, it worked perfect.
So nowadays, I check the ignition first, then the carbs. The Honda shop manual has all the resistance values for checking everything in the ignition system. Just need a digital voltmeter ($20 from Sears). BTW, it looks pretty simple to replace your CCT. Mine is in the engine, under the exhaust cam.
Here's a link showing how it's done on a CBR http://forums.cbrworld.net/forums/85183/ShowPost.aspx. Looks very similar to your Kawi. The last picture shows how to adjust the manual CCT.snadamo said:I would have no problem buying the manual one and installing it. Its the setup part that scares me. What If i put too much or to little tension on the chain? etc etc.
My old CBR uses the ignition as a rev limiter. Redline is 10,500. Above that, cylinders 2 and 3 are cut off while 1 and 4 are retarded. Above 11,600, the whole ignition shuts down. I've never tested mine above 10,500 (except for a few missed shifts between 1st and 2nd), but I wonder if the spark unit or computer in your ignition is cutting out the same way.snadamo said::..I was at a red light. Once it turned green I monitored my RPM and at 7-9k, it started that rattling again, bad. Anything below that RPM is fine and dandy.
The spark unit is probably hundreds of dollars, but you could test the timing at 7-9k with a timing light in your garage.
I hope it cures your problem.
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