Two Wheel Forums banner

That horrifying "clicking" noise

12189 Views 73 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  Craig4722
I have just noticed that when my bike has a cold start (either when it sits for a day or two, or when I start her at night), that if I give it a few revs, I hear a very faint cicking that is syncronized with the engine RPM (hope that makes sense). This occurs in the 3,000-6,000 RPM range (thats at least when I hear it). After the bike is all warmed up to about 150+ degrees, I rev it up and the clicking noise seems to go away. I rode it a few days ago with a 48 hour "rest" in between rides, and noticed it then. Also noticed it tonight when it was sitting at the little ladies house all night after I rode it today. I had to actually use the choke for the first time, or the bike would crap out. Every stop sign on the way home I gave it a rev or two to see if it made the noise. Realisticly, I dont think it was. But by then my mind started playing tricks on me. When I got home and rode in the complex parking lot, I cruised in at 3-6k RPM range and heard nothing. I have never before heard this noise, until I have had a few true cold starts. Is this something I should be worried about? :help:
1 - 4 of 74 Posts
twisty said:
Welcome to the wonderful world of CCT. My gixxer has started making the same sound and was/will be fixed with manual one for APE. It is simple to install and makes everything feel all nice and tight in the motor.
After my 3rd Honda CCT went out...I went with a manual...It was not a simple install on my bike...I had to remove the throttle bodies to get to the da:cens:mn thing and had to remove the cover over the cam to see the tensioner touch the chain before I could set the initial tension...It HAS made my bike more quiet than any time since it was new!! From start (removing fairings) to finish, (replacing fairings and test ride) it took about 3 hours. I did notice those punks at the dealership didn't tighten the clips on the throttle bodies on the brake pedal side because they didn't get the bodies all the way down...it caused carbon buildup on the top side of the valves because of lack of vacuum. I know the throttle bodies are tough to get back on, but c'mon...if the clips won't tighten, that shoulda told them something... :skep:
DLITALIEN said:
I would have punched the dealership in the face for that ****!

I think I did better...I trashed them on my Service Survey from Honda and to the district rep who called after I trashed them on the survey...I haven't returned any of the calls left by the dealer yet... :lol: You should have heard the silence on the other end when I told the Dist. Rep that the dealer also installed my front tire backwards... :yikes: I mean, it's not like there ISN'T AN ARROW ON THE TIRE TO SHOW HOW TO MOUNT IT!!!
When I installed the manual CCT...I had to remove the cap over the cams. When I put the last OEM one in, you could "feel" when it contacted the tensioner and you knew where it was...I couldn't feel it after 3 tries, so I just pulled the cover and watched until it contacted the tensioner. Then I put the cover back on and followed the directions that came with the unit and tightened it into place...

You're lucky you can reach it...on my F4i, it is right up against the frame and under the throttle bodies...I could/can adjust it with only removing the tank and airbox, but I couldn't remove the old one and put the new one on.

Of course, if I hadn't removed the throttle bodies, I wouldn't have know they were not down all the way and I wouldn't have seen that beautiful carbon buildup on the valves...


And remember to Cover your intakes with towel or cloth so little monsters don't get down into your cylinders!!
This is where you should be very careful...if it is just starting to make the clicking noise, you can ride it some, just don't be rockin the Tach up and down...as it progresses, the sound goes from the clicking to a "BB's shaking in a beer can" sound that will come and go...eventually, in the 4k and up to about 6K range, it sounds like thin sheet metal vibrating, or someone shaking a thin piece of sheet metal, and this sound doesn't go away.

Worse case...you stretch your cam chain and have to replace it OR...it jumps a tooth or breaks a tooth and you are replacing chain and gears...
1 - 4 of 74 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top