That should have been your first clue to find another shop.bumblebee said:
That horrifying "clicking" noise
I have just noticed that when my bike has a cold start (either when it sits for a day or two, or when I start her at night), that if I give it a few revs, I hear a very faint cicking that is syncronized with the engine RPM (hope that makes sense). This occurs in the 3,000-6,000 RPM range (thats at least when I hear it). After the bike is all warmed up to about 150+ degrees, I rev it up and the clicking noise seems to go away. I rode it a few days ago with a 48 hour "rest" in between rides, and noticed it then. Also noticed it tonight when it was sitting at the little ladies house all night after I rode it today. I had to actually use the choke for the first time, or the bike would crap out. Every stop sign on the way home I gave it a rev or two to see if it made the noise. Realisticly, I dont think it was. But by then my mind started playing tricks on me. When I got home and rode in the complex parking lot, I cruised in at 3-6k RPM range and heard nothing. I have never before heard this noise, until I have had a few true cold starts. Is this something I should be worried about? :help:
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Is it on the front of your motor?snadamo said:APE CCT Ninja
Twisty,
Is this the same brand you installed on your bike? If so, you like it?
Found it on EBAY BIN for $52.00 I found the guide to install it on my bike. The shop quoted me over $140 plus labor just today on it. Looks like I can do it for $55 with shipping and an hour or so of some TLC and elbow grease.
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Looks like the carbs have to come off as well. You better put aside at least 1/2 a day to be safe. :2cents:
Its not a tough job. Just don't expect it to be quick.
That info should be in your manual.snadamo said::iagree: If I were to do it myself, I would be VERY VERY careful and meticulous. Weekend project for sure.
Im not even sure If I want to install it myself. I dont know how much or not much tension a cam chain needs etc, etc.
:iagree: You shouldn't get that bad of a rattle from even a bad cam chain or CCT.No Worries said:Now that sounds more like an ignition problem, like a bad coil, plug or plug wire. When the CCT goes bad or the chain stretches, the cam timing is retarded. Runs great at high rpm, but not at idle and low rpm. Could also be a loose or broken motor mount. I think it needs some more testing. And some muffins would be nice too.
Don't forget the muffins. :lol:
I would fix the CCT first. Give every thing a good looking over while doing the job.
:luck: It can be a PITA sometimes to diagnose a problem.snadamo said:I plan to replace that first. I will run some tests and see if any other problems continue. If the other problems proceed, I will bring it into a shop and get taken for all my money again :bash: For all I know it could be a loose fairing or something causing the other stuff.
:tt:snadamo said:thanks, it looks like I might need some luck. I will give you guys an update if I notice anything different on the ride home tonight,.
:iagree: Dirt, sand, metal chips, screws, clamps. Any number of things can fall in.Gas Man said:That who sentance is a great idea when ever you are going to expose them! But I love the term little monsters!!
:iagree: If you know there is a problem, why take a chance of making it worse?bumblebee said:This is where you should be very careful...if it is just starting to make the clicking noise, you can ride it some, just don't be rockin the Tach up and down...as it progresses, the sound goes from the clicking to a "BB's shaking in a beer can" sound that will come and go...eventually, in the 4k and up to about 6K range, it sounds like thin sheet metal vibrating, or someone shaking a thin piece of sheet metal, and this sound doesn't go away.
Worse case...you stretch your cam chain and have to replace it OR...it jumps a tooth or breaks a tooth and you are replacing chain and gears...
Other wise enjoy and don't torture it till you get'er fixed.
That kind'of make sense.Gas Man said:I think it much like at my work. If you don't know you are ok and don't have to do anything about it. Once you know you're screwed and must fix it and adjust your daily activities to ensure no further damage.
Iv heard of batteries and charging system felling. Thos creating the same thing. It very uncommon for the spark unit or computer to go bad.No Worries said:My old CBR uses the ignition as a rev limiter. Redline is 10,500. Above that, cylinders 2 and 3 are cut off while 1 and 4 are retarded. Above 11,600, the whole ignition shuts down. I've never tested mine above 10,500 (except for a few missed shifts between 1st and 2nd), but I wonder if the spark unit or computer in your ignition is cutting out the same way.
The spark unit is probably hundreds of dollars, but you could test the timing at 7-9k with a timing light in your garage.
Take you time and do it right!
:readng: Glad you got it fixed. No back to enjoying it. :dthumb:
:dthumb: Me too.snadamo said:Thanks! :cheers: I took some advantage of todays weather...
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