That horrifying "clicking" noise

12189 Views 73 Replies 9 Participants Last post by Craig4722, Apr 24, 2006

snadamo

Discussion Starter · Nov 14, 2005

I have just noticed that when my bike has a cold start (either when it sits for a day or two, or when I start her at night), that if I give it a few revs, I hear a very faint cicking that is syncronized with the engine RPM (hope that makes sense). This occurs in the 3,000-6,000 RPM range (thats at least when I hear it). After the bike is all warmed up to about 150+ degrees, I rev it up and the clicking noise seems to go away. I rode it a few days ago with a 48 hour "rest" in between rides, and noticed it then. Also noticed it tonight when it was sitting at the little ladies house all night after I rode it today. I had to actually use the choke for the first time, or the bike would crap out. Every stop sign on the way home I gave it a rev or two to see if it made the noise. Realisticly, I dont think it was. But by then my mind started playing tricks on me. When I got home and rode in the complex parking lot, I cruised in at 3-6k RPM range and heard nothing. I have never before heard this noise, until I have had a few true cold starts. Is this something I should be worried about? :help:

41 - 60 of 74 Posts

No Worries

· #41 · Nov 16, 2005

snadamo said:
I would have no problem buying the manual one and installing it. Its the setup part that scares me. What If i put too much or to little tension on the chain? etc etc.

Here's a link showing how it's done on a CBR http://forums.cbrworld.net/forums/85183/ShowPost.aspx. Looks very similar to your Kawi. The last picture shows how to adjust the manual CCT.

snadamo

Discussion Starter · #42 · Nov 16, 2005

No Worries said:
Here's a link showing how it's done on a CBR http://forums.cbrworld.net/forums/85183/ShowPost.aspx. Looks very similar to your Kawi. The last picture shows how to adjust the manual CCT.

:readng:
awesome!!! Thanks a bunch :dthumb: . sounds easy enough. Saved it as a .doc file so I can print it out. I will let you know how it goes once its on (hopefully I get it by Friday)

Gas Man

· #43 · Nov 16, 2005

:yikes: Snad.... by next week the Kaw is going to be feeling good!

New pipe and new CCT!!

:dthumb:

And NW...great link!!

snadamo

Discussion Starter · #44 · Nov 16, 2005

Gas Man said:
:yikes: Snad.... by next week the Kaw is going to be feeling good!

New pipe and new CCT!!

:dthumb:

And NW...great link!!

:iagree: its giong to be a whole new chapter for the bike...I am all exited!!!

See less See more

bumblebee

· #45 · Nov 16, 2005

When I installed the manual CCT...I had to remove the cap over the cams. When I put the last OEM one in, you could "feel" when it contacted the tensioner and you knew where it was...I couldn't feel it after 3 tries, so I just pulled the cover and watched until it contacted the tensioner. Then I put the cover back on and followed the directions that came with the unit and tightened it into place...

You're lucky you can reach it...on my F4i, it is right up against the frame and under the throttle bodies...I could/can adjust it with only removing the tank and airbox, but I couldn't remove the old one and put the new one on.

Of course, if I hadn't removed the throttle bodies, I wouldn't have know they were not down all the way and I wouldn't have seen that beautiful carbon buildup on the valves...

And remember to Cover your intakes with towel or cloth so little monsters don't get down into your cylinders!!

Gas Man

· #46 · Nov 16, 2005

bumblebee said:
And remember to Cover your intakes with towel or cloth so little monsters don't get down into your cylinders!!

That who sentance is a great idea when ever you are going to expose them! But I love the term little monsters!!

jeeps84

· #47 · Nov 17, 2005

Gas Man said:
That who sentance is a great idea when ever you are going to expose them! But I love the term little monsters!!

:iagree: Dirt, sand, metal chips, screws, clamps. Any number of things can fall in.

snadamo

Discussion Starter · #48 · Nov 18, 2005

Now Im pissed because I have to wait after thanksgiving to get the APE CCT. My shipping orders got "re-scheduled" from the 23rd to the 28th. So my question is, am I still able to ride it, or should I just wait?

bumblebee

· #49 · Nov 18, 2005

This is where you should be very careful...if it is just starting to make the clicking noise, you can ride it some, just don't be rockin the Tach up and down...as it progresses, the sound goes from the clicking to a "BB's shaking in a beer can" sound that will come and go...eventually, in the 4k and up to about 6K range, it sounds like thin sheet metal vibrating, or someone shaking a thin piece of sheet metal, and this sound doesn't go away.

Worse case...you stretch your cam chain and have to replace it OR...it jumps a tooth or breaks a tooth and you are replacing chain and gears...

jeeps84

· #50 · Nov 18, 2005

bumblebee said:
This is where you should be very careful...if it is just starting to make the clicking noise, you can ride it some, just don't be rockin the Tach up and down...as it progresses, the sound goes from the clicking to a "BB's shaking in a beer can" sound that will come and go...eventually, in the 4k and up to about 6K range, it sounds like thin sheet metal vibrating, or someone shaking a thin piece of sheet metal, and this sound doesn't go away.

Worse case...you stretch your cam chain and have to replace it OR...it jumps a tooth or breaks a tooth and you are replacing chain and gears...

:iagree: If you know there is a problem, why take a chance of making it worse?
Other wise enjoy and don't torture it till you get'er fixed.

snadamo

Discussion Starter · #51 · Nov 18, 2005

jeeps84 said:
:iagree: If you know there is a problem, why take a chance of making it worse?
Other wise enjoy and don't torture it till you get'er fixed.

because its sooooooo tempting!

Its been 3 days...Im getting a new can etc, etc....

My self control is good though. I wont ride it unless I deem it fixed.

DLIT

· #52 · Nov 18, 2005

snadamo said:
man you guys are impaitent!!! :lol:

Okay so I just got home. The vibrating I was talking about at 9k, not as bad as I thought originally, and the legs get tingly but barely. My mind must have been more concentrated on the road, and that just startled me. This only occurs at 9k. You go over, its stops. I guess its that certain RPM that sets off something. Usually the bike vibrates a little when you get around that RPM range a little, (is that normal?) So I really dont know whats up with that.

Mines doing the same thing. Mine vibtates my right peg at around 6K RPM's. So is this bad or what? It's not something it use to do when I bought it either.

Click to expand...

Gas Man

· #53 · Nov 18, 2005

I think it much like at my work. If you don't know you are ok and don't have to do anything about it. Once you know you're screwed and must fix it and adjust your daily activities to ensure no further damage.

jeeps84

· #54 · Nov 18, 2005

Gas Man said:
I think it much like at my work. If you don't know you are ok and don't have to do anything about it. Once you know you're screwed and must fix it and adjust your daily activities to ensure no further damage.

That kind'of make sense.

No Worries

· #55 · Nov 19, 2005

snadamo said:
:..I was at a red light. Once it turned green I monitored my RPM and at 7-9k, it started that rattling again, bad. Anything below that RPM is fine and dandy.

My old CBR uses the ignition as a rev limiter. Redline is 10,500. Above that, cylinders 2 and 3 are cut off while 1 and 4 are retarded. Above 11,600, the whole ignition shuts down. I've never tested mine above 10,500 (except for a few missed shifts between 1st and 2nd), but I wonder if the spark unit or computer in your ignition is cutting out the same way.

The spark unit is probably hundreds of dollars, but you could test the timing at 7-9k with a timing light in your garage.

jeeps84

· #56 · Nov 19, 2005

No Worries said:
My old CBR uses the ignition as a rev limiter. Redline is 10,500. Above that, cylinders 2 and 3 are cut off while 1 and 4 are retarded. Above 11,600, the whole ignition shuts down. I've never tested mine above 10,500 (except for a few missed shifts between 1st and 2nd), but I wonder if the spark unit or computer in your ignition is cutting out the same way.

The spark unit is probably hundreds of dollars, but you could test the timing at 7-9k with a timing light in your garage.

Iv heard of batteries and charging system felling. Thos creating the same thing. It very uncommon for the spark unit or computer to go bad.

Gas Man

· #57 · Nov 19, 2005

jeeps84 said:
Iv heard of batteries and charging system felling. Thos creating the same thing. It very uncommon for the spark unit or computer to go bad.

:iagree: :withstupi

snadamo

Discussion Starter · #58 · Nov 21, 2005 (Edited)

No Worries said:
My old CBR uses the ignition as a rev limiter. Redline is 10,500. Above that, cylinders 2 and 3 are cut off while 1 and 4 are retarded. Above 11,600, the whole ignition shuts down. I've never tested mine above 10,500 (except for a few missed shifts between 1st and 2nd), but I wonder if the spark unit or computer in your ignition is cutting out the same way.

The spark unit is probably hundreds of dollars, but you could test the timing at 7-9k with a timing light in your garage.

well i did some more testing and its shaking a bit between 9k and 9.5k. Its a very small portion of the rpm range. anything above or below is just fine. Its for that split second I feel it. And like I said before, the rattling is not as bad as first thought. I over-exaggerated earlier.

I asked around and each person I have talked to says that there is that certain RPM range where there bike does the same thing. I even had somebody ride it to see, and he says that his 01 R6 does the same thing at 6-6.5k. The rattling wasnt that bad. Now if it gets worse, then thats a different story.

snadamo

Discussion Starter · #59 · Nov 22, 2005 (Edited)

From the mailbox to the bike...

I got my APE Cam Chain Tensioner in the mail todaY!!!! After purchasing some swivel sockets, I was able to remove the old CCT. that old CCT was leaking fluid all over the place! However, I encountered a few problems: :bash:

The CCT is RIGHT NEXT TO THE FRAME more specifically, the weld on the frame hinders tightening the CCT Bolt to a certain point. I dont even know if there is tension (I took a break because I was frustrated and hungry) Basically if the bolt was an inch shorter, it would clear the weld taht sitcks out a bit

What I'm giong to do is take a tape measure and a flashlight and see when the tape measure hits the shoe and mark it and adjust the CCT accordingly, then mount it and see if I can tighten or loosen the bolt any. If that doesnt fly, there is an option to dremel out that tiny part of the weld that would able me to tighten the bolt more, but I really really dont want to cut the frame any.

I checked APE web page and its the right CCT. Its a generic model CCT for ninjas 1996-2003 or so.

I also have a theory that the frame slider that acts as a motor mount is on way too tight, causing the engine to pull over to that side more. But I believe thats a far fetched theory. Engines cant be moved that easily right?

EDIT: After a few hours some hard thinking and some finesse, I got it to fit in, clear of the welding/Frame! I loosely left the top bolt on while I adjusted the Tension bolt clear of the weld/frame. After it got it past that part, I put the bottom bolt in and tightened them both up nice and snug. The tension bolt is snug, free and clear of the frame, and and ready for the fine tuning (as described by the instructions from No Worries). Since its almost 2am here, I guess I will ahve to wait to set the tension till the daytime (I like my neighbors, wouldnt want them mad at me

) I cannot wait to get it back on the road!!!

I should have a review of the CCT soon!

See less See more

jeeps84

· #60 · Nov 22, 2005

Take you time and do it right!

41 - 60 of 74 Posts

This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.