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· V-Twin Moddin
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Pumping Up Tire Safety
Remember chemistry class back in high school? How about all those Laws? Like Charles’s Law—the physical law that the volume of a fixed mass of gas held at a constant varies directly with the absolute temperature? So what does that have to do with tire safety? Well, Charles’s Law means that if there’s a decrease in temperature, there is also a decrease in pressure. Therefore, during the colder months of the year, your odds of having an under inflated tire are much greater.

Proper tire pressure is essential for getting optimum driving performance and best gas mileage. On the other hand, improper tire inflation can cause severe internal tire damage, which can lead to sudden tire failure, which can cause serious personal injury or even death.

To avoid the rapid or irregular tire wear and reduced fuel economy caused by under inflated tires, tire pressure should be checked at least once a month and whenever the temperature drops significantly. Under normal driving conditions, tires will lose approximately one pound of pressure every month, and for every change in ambient temperature of ten degrees Fahrenheit, pressure will change by approximately one psi. For convenience, purchase a tire pressure gauge to keep in your vehicle.

Remember, the tire inflation number that vehicle manufacturers provide reflects the proper pounds per square inch (psi) when a tire is cold. To get an accurate tire pressure reading, measure tire pressure when the car has been unused for at least three hours.

It’s important to use the vehicle manufacturer’s recommendation for tire pressure. You can find the numbers for recommended tire pressure and vehicle load limit on the tire information placard and in the vehicle owner's manual. Tire placards are permanent labels attached to the vehicle door edge, doorpost, glove-box door, or inside of the trunk lid. Once you've located this information, use it to check your tire pressure and to make sure your vehicle is not overloaded. The pressure information printed on the tires is from the tire manufacturer and refers to maximum tire pressure; it should not be used as a guide to tire inflation.

Step 1: Locate the correct tire pressure on the tire information placard or in the owner's manual.
Step 2: Record the tire pressure of all tires.
Step 3: If the tire pressure is too high in any of the tires, slowly release air by gently pressing on the tire valve with the edge of your tire gauge until you get to the correct pressure.
Step 4: If the tire pressure is too low, note the difference between the measured tire pressure and the correct tire pressure. These "missing" pounds of pressure are what you will need to add.
Step 5: At a service station, add the missing pounds of air pressure to each tire that is under inflated.
Step 6: Check all the tires to make sure they have the same air pressure (except in cases in which the front and rear tires are supposed to have different amounts of pressure).
Don’t underestimate the importance of tire maintenance to the overall maintenance of your vehicle. As the Rubber Manufacturers Association campaign states: “Be Tire Smart—Play your PART” (PART standing for the four key aspects of tire maintenance: pressure, alignment, rotation and tread.)

For additional information, visit the following Web sites:
National Highway Traffic Safety Administration
Bridgestone Firestone online tire safety information at: www.tiresafety.com.
 

· V-Twin Moddin
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah it applies for everything...especially us in the colder temps in our cars/trucks.

It is one of those work sent emails...
 

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Nitrogen is a good substitute for regular air.
i assume this has been debated before...

low tire pressure will cause the tire to flex more. this will cause abnormal heat buildup and will cook the tires.

overinflation will cause your suspension to work harder and cause premature wear on the tire's center.

-a|ex
 

· V-Twin Moddin
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39,300 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yeah we've talked about nitrogen...

And yes, those other points about inflation are good things to remind some of!
 

· V-Twin Moddin
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I would not do those... they are like the Tire Flies that I have heard horror stories about them.... I would NOT put them on my bike... my truck...maybe... but not on the bike!!!
 

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10/20 method

all tire mfg, model, heat cycles, rider weight, wear, conditions, etc put heat into the tires diffrently for everyone. so once a week i check the pressure cold and right after an average ride. (a commute for me) The idea is that you want the front to increase psi 10% in the front and 20% in the rear. if the tire is is under, drop the pressure and if its over, add some. i started with the stock 33F 36R psi, but now run 31F 34R. (i guess a commute doesnt warm my tires enough)
 

· Moderator , Lifetime Gold Supporting Member, '07 R
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JK_DILLA said:
all tire mfg, model, heat cycles, rider weight, wear, conditions, etc put heat into the tires diffrently for everyone. so once a week i check the pressure cold and right after an average ride. (a commute for me) The idea is that you want the front to increase psi 10% in the front and 20% in the rear. if the tire is is under, drop the pressure and if its over, add some. i started with the stock 33F 36R psi, but now run 31F 34R. (i guess a commute doesnt warm my tires enough)
Gas Man said:
OIC... never heard that before.... That's good info....
That's actually common practice on the track. One place air pressure can make a big difference in lap time. The hard part is accounting for track temp and air temp. It constantly changes.
 

· Moderator , Lifetime Gold Supporting Member, '07 R
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Back _Marker said:
here's a good way to check tire pressure without losing air...

valve stem pressure indicator cap
http://garage-toys.com/tireminder.html

i wonder if it requires a tire re-balance.

-a|ex
I wouldn't use these un a bike unless with metal steams.

I did use a similar product on my truck for a while. I found myself adding air almost every week. Then one day I picked up a small nail and couldn't find the leak. I used soapy water and along with the nail. I discovered that the valve cap was leaking around the threads. I took them off and now I don't need the air near as often.
 

· Moderator , Lifetime Gold Supporting Member, '07 R
Joined
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20,176 Posts
JK_DILLA said:
all tire mfg, model, heat cycles, rider weight, wear, conditions, etc put heat into the tires diffrently for everyone. so once a week i check the pressure cold and right after an average ride. (a commute for me) The idea is that you want the front to increase psi 10% in the front and 20% in the rear. if the tire is is under, drop the pressure and if its over, add some. i started with the stock 33F 36R psi, but now run 31F 34R. (i guess a commute doesnt warm my tires enough)
Need to mention that there is a difference in cold air pressure temp and operating air pressure temp. The numbers printed on the tire are for cold tire and air. The tire manufactures have already estimated these factors for you with the printed numbers but weather and driving/riding style will make a small difference.
 

· V-Twin Moddin
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39,300 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Yeah... jeeps... that's another great reason why I don't like those... more of a chance to loose air... just not a good design or idea!!

I know I always ran my 9R a few pounds lighter than manufacture recomendation.
 
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