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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have noticed lately since my valve tapping and ticking problem has started my tranny does not want to easily go into neutral at a stop. If I am stopped and I want to slide into neutral I have to rev the engine to about 3 or 4 k while holding the clutch in and tap up or down for it to slide into neural, also if I am rolling I don't seem to have a hard time sliding into neutral either. I don't know if this is linked with the valve problem but maybe someone can give me a clue. The clutch feels fine, so I don't think it that.
 

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:yikes: looking forward to some people's input on this one...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Gas Man said:
:yikes: looking forward to some people's input on this one...
me too, and no luck yet...i hope I find out the answer monday when I take it in for the valve job monday.
 

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If I come to a light in 3rd or 4th gear, it takes a bunch of toe tapping to get into neutral. I like to see the red light and downshift smartly through the gears to be in 2nd, but when the light changes quickly to red, and I have to stop, I hit the brakes. But I think all bikes are harder to shift into neutral from gears other than 2nd or 1st. You could try fine tuning the clutch freeplay, or if they're hydraulic, bleeding.
 

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It still sounds like a clutch problem...but all bikes have trouble finding neutral if you stop in 5th and then try to down shift to 1st or neutral
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
bumblebee said:
It still sounds like a clutch problem...but all bikes have trouble finding neutral if you stop in 5th and then try to down shift to 1st or neutral
It doesn't really matter what gear I am in when I come to a stop, it just doesn't want to go into neutral, if I am in first and want to tap up to neutral its really hard, and I skip right over it and go back in 2nd, then i tap down it skips neutral and right into first, I have to rev the rpm to 4k or so while I shift to get it in neutral.
 

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That's wierd..I would normally say that revin it would make it harder to get into nuetral...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Gas Man said:
That's wierd..I would normally say that revin it would make it harder to get into nuetral...
nope slides right in like KY jelly :lol: but its not normal. i never had the problem untill the valves started makeing noises.
 

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I don't know what to tell you... maybe it isn't the valves and is some tranny problem... just wierd.
 

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Sounds like the clutch is dragging. Not sure what that has to do with the noise you are hearing unless you have trashed your clutch basket from popping wheelies and then starved the motor for oill while riding them...

Larry
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
larryg said:
Sounds like the clutch is dragging. Not sure what that has to do with the noise you are hearing unless you have trashed your clutch basket from popping wheelies and then starved the motor for oill while riding them...

Larry
I think I may have starved the motor from oil. While I was riding a long wheelie I didn't switch to 3rd and hit the rev limiter. That night I heard the valves makeing noise (hope its still the valves) Like I said before it's almost 4,000 over due for a valve service, its probably it. The clutch feels fine to me, it's just neutral while i'm stopped.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Good news!!!

I just got done talking to the technician at West Shore suzuki. They tore my motor apart this morning for the valve adjustment, he and the other master tech and myself are so amazed! There is no problem with my valves!!! He said EVERYTHING is in PERFECT range, he is so stunned because it has almost 19k miles on it, service is supposed to be required at 16k. I told him how hard I ride i.e full throttle all the time, long hard wheelies non stop, rev limiter sometimes, and he was expecting some wear or damage to something. He also checked the cam, and cam chains...there again PERFECTLY with in range. There is so little wear they don't make a shim small enough to adjust the valves, cams, or chain.


I have no idea what I am paying for him just to look at my bike today, he didn't really do anything but take it apart and find there's nothing wrong. It was supposed to costs $192 for the service, but since he didn't adjust anything I am hopeing he lowers the rate. He is going to sync my carbs while he has it all apart.

Also it looks like the clutch cable may need to be adjusted like larryg said... its in the service order so that should be fixed too.

I'll talk to him more at 3:30 when I go pick it up today.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
larryg said:
Sounds like the clutch is dragging. Not sure what that has to do with the noise you are hearing unless you have trashed your clutch basket from popping wheelies and then starved the motor for oill while riding them...

Larry
:iagree: I just got off the phone with the shop again. He said all this noise I am hearing is comming from the clutch. He told me the exact same thing as larryg said. Looks like I'm going to need a new clutch kit. I guess I will go with OEM suzuki clutch since I've :readng: that's the best clutch to go with.
 

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After my recent problem that I was able to fix...I did some checking.

It is way cheaper to get Barnett clutches. God knows they make good stuff. I suggest Parts411.com Their site is ok, but I called them and they looked it up and bang... a complete clutch kit for my bike is only $140... about $100 cheaper than the stock stuff...

But do what you want/need to do...
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Gas Man said:
After my recent problem that I was able to fix...I did some checking.

It is way cheaper to get Barnett clutches. God knows they make good stuff. I suggest Parts411.com Their site is ok, but I called them and they looked it up and bang... a complete clutch kit for my bike is only $140... about $100 cheaper than the stock stuff...

But do what you want/need to do...
I just do everyday rideing, poppin wheelies riding them out thru 3rd gear, but once the bike is us I don't touch the clutch anymore, its all throttle control from there.
I don't plan on hitting the track until next year hopefully. so what do ya think barnett or oem?
 

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I know that many think OEM... because they believe they last longer... but ask yourself something... if you have 15K on the bike now... do you need the clutch to last another 15K? If not save some dough and buy the barnett that will last 10 or 12k... this analogy is based on the "idea" that the barnett won't last as long as the OE...

Barnett didn't get as big and popular by making crap... think about that as well. Call parts411.com they carry the complete barnett kits... new metal, new fiber and new springs... which hands down...the aftermarket springs are way nicer!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Gas Man said:
I know that many think OEM... because they believe they last longer... but ask yourself something... if you have 15K on the bike now... do you need the clutch to last another 15K? If not save some dough and buy the barnett that will last 10 or 12k... this analogy is based on the "idea" that the barnett won't last as long as the OE...

Barnett didn't get as big and popular by making crap... think about that as well. Call parts411.com they carry the complete barnett kits... new metal, new fiber and new springs... which hands down...the aftermarket springs are way nicer!
I'm going to check them out now...I tried to adjust the clutch from the bottom side...no luck, the top no luck..I still have to rev the engine to 4k at a stop to get in neutral. I wanna attempt to do this clutch myself, my service tech said he would look at the clutch and everything once I got it out. I guess if I mess it up I can just take it to him and let him finish the job. I'm not going to start on this project until after the Carlisle Bike Fest tho.
 

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Gas Man said:
That's wierd..I would normally say that revin it would make it harder to get into nuetral...
it is for me
 
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