Pickle,pickle.of.doom said:About to order my fork springs from race tech. What else do I need to get? Some fluid? What kind and weight should I get? What else will I need?
One thing you need to realize is that you will need to cut the spacers yourself (racetech is going to send you a box with two springs and a length of aluminum spacer). The springs are not going to be the same length as your stock springs ... so you'll need to measure the stock springs and spacers, then cut the new spacers so that the assembled length is the same (springs + spacers).f4ilapper said:Just wondering the same things and to see how deep I might have gotten myself in. I did a pretty deep review of the service manual and it looks like I only need to replace a rubber o-ring under the fork bolt. If I only change the springs.
F4i
We cut them with a hacksaw with a metal blade, then use a pnumatic wheel with a scotchbrite bad to take off the burrs. A dremel would also work, or a red scotchbrite pad. Sandpaper will tend to tear on the burrs. You don't need to bevel or anything, it's just sitting against the spring. The spacers sit on top of the spring and under the fork cap (you'll see the stock spacer when you open your forks). Just make sure it's a 90 degree cut.f4ilapper said:When cutting the spacers to size what type of edge condition should I leave, i.e just burr removal or fine sand paper beveled (sp) finish? And would the spacer go in first then the spring on top?
Basically, yes. But since you're getting the right springs for your weight, the original assembled length should be good and allow you to get the right sag numbers.Is the spacer length intuitive, longer spacer equals higher pre-load?
Exactly - lighter viscosity flows through the valves faster. Stock forks are notorious for having not enough rebound (not all of them, but a good many). Depending on the bike, we do different things. For exmaple ... R6 forks we usually go 20w.What is the effect of heavier or or lighter fork oil? Does lighter oil equal quicker rebound and less dampening or is that backwards?
2 hours of labor at $45/hour ... so $90 (plus oil, which is about $8). This also includes Our setup in terms of oil and spacer length, as well as support on dialing them in for the life of the forks, be it on the phone or at the track (you will find that the faster you go, your rebound/compression setup will change - what works at X laptime no longer works at < X laptime - you have to adjust to suit your style, and what the forks are doing)If I were to feel that I'm in over my head what would re-spring cost from Speedwerks?
That is correct. Our standard labor rate is $45/hr. We're in Dover, DE - low cost of living area (you can still buy a nice house in a nice neighborhood here for under $170k). Even the area dealerships are only at about $60/hr. (In all honesty, we're thinking about raising our rate this year to $50 or $55 - we haven't raised it in 4 years. ). Our regular clientel is from all over the mid-atlantic area (some from farther away) - about 70% of our business is from out-of-state, mainly racers and track-day enthusiasts (that's our specialty). While we could charge more, we've always felt that a fair price goes a long way toward making new customers, and keeping existing ones. If you go a google search for our name, you'll come up with a lot of race results from people who list us as a sponsor.No Worries said:So someone could take off their forks, mail them to you, and you would install springs, fork oil, and gold valves for $45/hr?
Chris -Gas Man said:Brian... what would you guys charge to pull forks off a bike and do just a oil change? Just curious... a local shop around here... wants 2 hours (@ $80 a shop hour rate) plus the oil... cheap like $14 for Ohlins fork oil.... so like $175 for ride the bike in and out later in the day...
The only diff is here, our labor rate is cheaper. We have the cool racetech tool, but a turkey baster works in a pinchGsxrJack said:measureing the fork oil is pretty easy, you do it before the spring is installed and they will give you a measurement from the oil to the top of the tube...can use a tube or anything that will suck the fluid out if you over fill it...pretty easy step...
